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Top Swap Info and Faqs, Also lots of 3800 Info

Tune wont fix the pulley too small for mods.

Unless that PCM OSID works with your model year and trim and the PCM was setup for your transmission settings it wont run properly.
 


ITS OFFICAL i got all my my parts except the harmonic balancer can some one please tellme if i really need this or not.....also got the fuel injector plugs with the fuel rail and map sensor and maf sensor,coil pack with bracket heads now too ...and the connectors to if i need them dont know for sure........please please helpme i want this stuff on my car....cant wait imso happy !!!!more power than on to the L67 mod list
 
MONTE2000SS said:
ITS OFFICAL i got all my my parts except the harmonic balancer can some one please tellme if i really need this or not.....also got the fuel injector plugs with the fuel rail and map sensor and maf sensor,coil pack with bracket heads now too ...and the connectors to if i need them dont know for sure........please please helpme i want this stuff on my car....cant wait imso happy !!!!more power than on to the L67 mod list
Click to expand...

You should really read the first post in this thread, I made sure all those answers are in there....... the balancer is required if you want the belt that spins the supercharger. The only way to avoid the balancer swap is to use a ss m90 pulley from ZZP, but there is such a small amount of belt wrap with that setup, you will get belt slip with a 3.8 pulley.
 
So I haven't seen this question answered- The return line is on the opposite side of the engine on the l36. I haven't seen a good option on connecting it to the l67 rail. I'm VERY leery of a custom line due to all the W body engine fires (we had one on our stock regal). So how did you guys do it?
 
twist the head on the line and itll pop right onto the L67 stuff like normal. make sure the lines arent rubbing on anything, mainly the EGR that'll burn right through them.
 
Alright, I was just breathing alittle uneasy with the stories I've read of l36 top end swaps burning down because of that line. I won't be running an egr so I guess I'm safe.
 




I'm going to top swap soon on my 2000 GP GT with an XP cam. I've done a lot of reading about it and im aware that its easier to blow my engine due to the higher compression. I know too much knock will do it in, so is there anything else I need to look out for to safely run the top swap?
 
Bio248 said:
run a big pulley to start out with and make sure you've got someone who tunes close by.
Click to expand...


I will be getting an Overkill PCM, and I know many people still suggest to get a custom tune. Even though I will have a scan guage for knock and be sure I don't have any knock, What else makes it so dangerous? A detailed explanation would be highly appreciated.
 
Thin ring landing more likely to fail. Any kr is bad. It means damage is being done to the piston. Takes while for the landing to fail though.
 


The pistons rings are gapped very tightly. When higher cylinder temps are seen they expand and can sieze ripping the top half of the piston off. I would think the rings would fail first.

However based on what ive read about detonation, it slowly weakens the piston till it finally fails.

There is a typical place for it to occur. Iirc its furthest away from the spark plug.
 
the ring landing is where the piston ring clips onto the piston. when you get the motor pinging nicely the piston rings swell up and the piston ring gap closes up and ends up lopping a corner of the piston off.

it takes some effort to do it, but oh so many people have done it.



edit: damn you, mr. speedy!
 
Race of the phone typing.

Im starting to doubt the ring gap theory.

Lookup "formulas" for calculating ring gap. They suggest our factory gap is just fine.
 
but how much heat are we creating in the cylinders when you've got some serious detonation going on? enough to expand the rings without expanding the piston and seizing it in the cylinder?
 
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