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Cruisin's RX-8 L67 Swap

front end of the crank gets oiled plenty....all times ive found #1 rod and main beatup was because of sucking air, air is not a good lubricant and it likes to find the path of easiest exit....and since the #1 main and rod are the first exits along the oil flow path....the air leads to their death.

most spun rods seem to be the oil choked 2,3,4,5 rods as they are paired together...downstream of the cam bearing restriction. while main galley pressure reads fine, the pressure past the restriction is quite low and drops with the wear and tear accumulating.

same issues inherent in its ancestor the lc2...though at least with a better oil pump design....
 


Oh that's good to know.
Do you happen to know of any high volume oil pumps?
I found Intense's higher pressure kit, but I was looking for higher volume at lower/mid rpms
 
So I decided to weigh the long block today out of curiosity.
294.4 lbs


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thats what i came up with after i took the old one to the scrap yard, heads are about 40 lbs a side. i found out from shipping a pair.

i humped just the short block off the stand and on the floor to do the rear cover gasket, then i lifted it back up and on the stand again. solo both ways. it seemed like it was about 150 maybe, clearly it was a bit more, kind blew me away that i was able to pull it off lol

good thing im part Sasquatch lol
 
I can't seem to find much info. Anyone know what these engines can handle boost wise on a good tune? Is there a point where everyone starts throwing rods? ha

Also, anyone have any interest in a LIM that's pre-drilled for Meth Nozzles? Fits one nozzle to each port.
 


That's a lot of power on a stock bottom end wow.

I know Boost PSI has other factors. But lets say I wanted to shove 25 psi down those ports all day long... it'll probably handle it huh?

I have a T4 I'll be using, and my only real goal with that is 15 psi, I just wanted to get an idea on what other people are pushing into these engines and how well they take it lol
 
The guy that did the twin engine GTP was doing 25+ psi through each motor, was like a 1100-1200 AWHP car.

GM made several bottem ends that can handle a ton of power, 3800's and any LS car/truck motor can take the 500+ whp without a care.
 
Ideally, if you can open up the ring gap some in the LS motors you can make them maybe live longer. And atleast those you can remove whatever you want and slap it back together with no machine work or anything. Like an old 350, bascially a lego set.
 


Well we'll see how well my engine lasts ha.
If I ever get around to machining a block and really building an engine that'll all be taken into consideration, But as it stands now. I'm going to make my motor do work until it doesn't want to anymore ha.
 


heh, I can't wait to finish it myself!


Did a recent junkyard run, grabbed an f-body oil adapter. I plan to get the mani's but another yard about 40 minutes away has the parts already pulled and will give me a great deal on em, just need to get over there!

I found a 2WD isuzu rodeo driveshaft is a pretty darn good fit. Might be perfect actually!
 
I like this

A Dodge bellhousing fits a GM engine? Isuzu used GM chasis and drivetrains for years so it wouldn't surprise me if that DS fit.
 
Yea, the 2.5 4cyl in the dakota happens to have a gm60 pattern on it, and the trans they used happens to have the same front pattern as mine (same as an r154 supra trans IIRC) So yup, this dakota bell housing will fit any gm60 engine to a Solstice trans, Colorado trans, and in fact a Rodeo trans. As the isuzu rodeo did uses an Aisin AR5 with slightly different ratios. The trucks also have different tail housings.

My buddy is using the same trans in his rx-8 swap and he confirmed a 2wd aluminum isuzu rodeo driveshaft is pretty much the perfect length, swap a few flanges and done.
I currently have a steel 4x4 rodeo driveshaft that needs to be lengthened. But I'd rather find the 2wd shaft as it'll work and be far cheaper to make it shorter if need be.
 
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