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1998 Grand Prix GT Engine Swap (to the L26)



No problem, I figured since you already spent money on the adapter you might want to go ahead and use it.

Did you see why they put that plug in the L26 upper? It's in the source thread, it's for the PCV to go back into the intake, it's just drilling a hole all the way through and plugging the outside, to allow the engine to vent from the PCV into the intake. Or just connect that fitting on top to the TB PCV inlet with some vac tubing. Lol
 
I keep telling myself that we are almost ready to pull the engine out...

Tonight we disconnected the starter from its bracket, and moved it to the side - do we need to disconnect any electrical wires from the starter? (we don't plan on pulling the trans, only the engine)?
 


Trans is supported, engine is supported w/lift - any recommendations how to separate eng from trans?

I have all 4 trans to eng bolts removed (including the one in back requiring the 3' extension, now I see why you have to remove that eng to diff bracket lol)
 
and the diff to engine bracket has to come off, cause its holding the two together. on top of it blocking the backwards bolt.
 
Yes, and yes: only thing I didn't realize was the ground bolt for the alternator, take off the wires, and there was another bolt holding engine to trans. A little shove, and separation, resulting in one happy daughter. pic coming soon.
 
so it it separated yet?

if not, lift the engine up so the pass side is higher leting the motor mount clear the frame, then jack to the tranny tail shaft, aka pass side axle input area to hold the tranny up there, then wiggle the engine. it should split.
 


Yes, thanks - wiggled free just as you suggested, took a couple of turns on the leveler, glad I bought one.

So, in total, there are 5 total bolts holding engine to transmission: one in back pointed towards the driver's side wheel well and requiring the long extension, three other "easy bolts" pointed towards pass. side wheel well, and one bolt-stud that holds the starter ground terminals.
 
one of these things is not like the other. The OD on the manifold tube = 16mm which is the same as the ID on the plenum's tube. Should I just cut the plenum's flush with the bottom of the plenum, and use an emery cloth to reduce the size of the manifold's tube so that it fits inside the plenum's tube? Any other suggestions?

 
thats the egr tube. you should be able to remove it and swap in the one from the l36 lim, or just swap the lim from the old engine.
 
FYI, I cut the plenum EGR tube almost, but not quite flush with the L36 intake plenum, used a plumbing brass brush to clean out the inside of it, thoroughly cleaned out the plenum of cutting debris, and then it slid perfectly over the L26 LIM EGR tube.

The key here is to trim the plenum tube so that the gasket is thicker then the stub left after the cut.
 
not really, bolt it all on and run it. if it acts funny you know theres an issue.

that tube is for exhaust gasses to get back to the engine. the issue it has with the plastic upper is the plastic melts, or cracks from the heat, then it can leak coolant, but you sealed off your ports, so no worrys there.
 


Question: My new L26 motor came with a motor mount, including the bracket that holds it.
It came from an '06 Buick LaCrosse...
Can I just use that as a drop-in or do I have to take the mount bracket off the L36 and use it on the L26?
 
Great, that will save some work.
Any suggestions for replacement engine mounts (bottom front)?
Rock Auto has DEA, Anchor, Westar, Pioneer, AcDelco
 
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Went back to work on the car, and noticed a drip from the tranny, yes I did support the trans with a jack on the end of it.

It isn't much oil, but it is a drip that wasn't there before, and it seems to be coming from the car's right side of the tranny, where I have a jack underneath it.

Do things typically seal back up when you put the engine and trans back together, or should I do something now to stop the leak?
 
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