• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

VS cam project almost finished, a couple of questions

I just unplugged the oil pressure sender unit and the light in the cabin went off, so the wiring is okay. Also just double checked, no hanging wires or anything down by that area.
 


pick up a new oil pressure sensor, they are cheap, like 12 bucks. or put a oil pressure gauge in.


best way to get it out is to take the pass side wheel off, then reach in to it with large channel lock pliers.
 
Ok I will do that. I am starting to feel pretty stupid here though. I think my problem may be too much oil which is causing aerated oil, which builds no pressure. The discoloration of the oil has completely gone away and the look of it matched the color of the description on a webpage, sort of a milk chocolate color. I am just going to replace the pressure sender with a mechanical gauge instead of getting a new one.
 
get one thats electric, not a mechanical one. that line has to go into the car, if it ever fails and leaks it will put oil in the car. and they dont allow them at the track from what i understand should you ever drag the car.
 
hot oil in the car is very bad idea along with hot coolant. in the 30's and 40's they did that and yes you got burned if the line was old and rotten
 
ive had them leak in the past, stock factory old school type oil pressure gauges too. one in a peterbuilt also crapped out, oiled the whole back of the dash and leaked on my foot lol
 


Update, fixed the popping. Was a misfire lol, 3 and 5 were switched. Removed a qt of oil, but no pressure is building still, so I am going to hook the gauge up and will return with results.
 
Hey hey! I still have issues lol, that was only one of them!

If I get 0 psi for oil pressure, could it be the valve being reversed in the oil filter adapter?
 


have you tested the psi yet? if not like said before, it would be making a lot more noise, internally.


it should show psi when cranking it, so pull a fuel relay or pull the plug wires or something to keep it from starting if your worried about running it.
 
With the misfire fixed, I went out and listened and it was definitely making some noise. My mechanic friend came over to help me out. He said as it was running it sounded like it maybe was getting a little bit quieter, but I didn't think so.
 
if you didnt prime the oil pump and engine by cranking the engine, it does take a little time for the lifters to fully pump up.

engines crank real fast with no plugs installed, best way to prime the oil system.
 
Do you think it would build enough pressure in 20-30 seconds? If not, I'll definitely try that. Remove the plugs and fuel relay and watch the gauge for pressure.
 
it will build pressure by cranking it. if you take the plugs out theres no need to pull the fuel really.

id crank it, for 20 seconds, like 5 or 6 times. it should show pressure during the first round of cranking it. being its been run already.
 


Holy **** am I having trouble getting this oil pressure sensor off. Is there a by the book method to removing this thing? I can't get anything around it to twist it out
 
Update: Hooked up the oil pressure gauge. Haven't started the car yet, but I inspected the oil filter and it was empty. Also, the oil filter is attached to the oil filter adapter which is attached to the oil pump inside the front cover. Inside of this oil filter adapter sits a check valve. If this valve is reversed, would that cause no oil pressure? I am starting to think this valve may be the problem. Or would it be pretty obvious if that valve were reversed? I would attach a picture but GPF is too picky about photos..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top