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Taz's Offical Summer/Fall build list.

make sure you check both standard and metric sockets, the intake bolts are really close. make sure you don't get your wiring harness stuck in odd places. and use the right length bolts, almost everything up top is 10mm but if you use the short ones you'll end up pulling threads out (they're all TTY, so the right plan of action is to replce them all). other than that, have confidence.

you haz catching up to do lol. any word on paul still coming on the 8th?
 


so I'm getting ready to place my final orders of parts and stuff everybody thing 3.4 pulley is the way to go? or smaller and I can't decide what style heat exchanger to go with I've been thinking the older style stage 2 since zzp has one for 60 bucks
 
I'd say the 3.4" would be a good start. You should see the full size i/c kill a lot of potential knock, almost makes you wonder why they never came stock with these types of blowers.

I wouldn't be afraid to go with the h/e you're talking about above. Could also look at these as well : Water to Air Heat Exchanger

Zoom/zzp or others say the design of the frozenboost h/e is flawed but a lot of people use them with good results.
 
alright Idk if this sounds crazy but I got to thinking the l67 and l36 heads are the same except for the extra holes so why not use the valves and rockers that in my car now with the l67 heads. Since they have half the miles on them and were cleaned and checked by a pro less than a year ago I feel like that would be easier than trying to clean up these worn out parts that have abunch of carbon super baked on.

Is this a bad idea?
 


Taz Magister said:
alright Idk if this sounds crazy but I got to thinking the l67 and l36 heads are the same except for the extra holes so why not use the valves and rockers that in my car now with the l67 heads. Since they have half the miles on them and were cleaned and checked by a pro less than a year ago I feel like that would be easier than trying to clean up these worn out parts that have abunch of carbon super baked on.

Is this a bad idea?
Click to expand...

as long as you keep the lifters, pushrods, rockers, and valves together, the only thing you have to worry about not having even wear is the valve seat. assemble your heads and take them to a machine shop for a three angle valve job and youre set. ohio crankshaft in greenville does really good work, but i'm a lot closer to them than you are. if it makes you feel any better, i used the lifters, rods, and rockers from my old motor on the "new" heads that had been sitting for multiple years, with the L67 valves, without checking for wear or warpage and it started right up. wouldn't be a bad idea to have new valve guides run while they're at the shop either. couple days, between $100-$200 for all of it. or you could get yourself a set of feeler gauges and a micrometer or dial caliper and measure for wear yourself. depends on what you want really. will it run? probably. will it have premature wear? probably. will it run up to it's potential? eh...
 
Poil336 said:
as long as you keep the lifters, pushrods, rockers, and valves together, the only thing you have to worry about not having even wear is the valve seat. assemble your heads and take them to a machine shop for a three angle valve job and youre set. ohio crankshaft in greenville does really good work, but i'm a lot closer to them than you are. if it makes you feel any better, i used the lifters, rods, and rockers from my old motor on the "new" heads that had been sitting for multiple years, with the L67 valves, without checking for wear or warpage and it started right up. wouldn't be a bad idea to have new valve guides run while they're at the shop either. couple days, between $100-$200 for all of it. or you could get yourself a set of feeler gauges and a micrometer or dial caliper and measure for wear yourself. depends on what you want really. will it run? probably. will it have premature wear? probably. will it run up to it's potential? eh...
Click to expand...


so as long as I keep it all together they should be fine then right?
 
it would be better to do that then use old parts for sure. i'm gonna recommend a three angle valve job again, 2 days of work and less than $100 and then you've got nothing to worry about. they can also check for warpage and cracks on the heads. i don't think it's as taboo as what people say, and i definitely know of worse. like my buddy that built a 3400... he reused all the bottom end TTY bolts. i about smacked him when he told me that
 


If the heads are off, I would get them done.

It's one of those, "Might as well" mods that really make a difference.
 
hurt my back making room in the garage for the car the other day... now I might not be getting this done soon or going to kcgp11 because I can't even walk bymyself... and both my jobs consist of heavy lifting and bending over so now I have no money coming in which even if I did I can't work on the car like this and I certainly couldn't drive that long so hopefully my back stops being a little bi***
 
good news is doctor gave me some cool pills and after I replaced abunch of stuff on that aveo my sister got I was able to take the car out for a wash and pull it into the garage and start tearing stuff apart

305740_2032579380701_1430666591_31667110_698070447_n.jpg
 


sooooo theres this awesome performance plumbing place around here... and I'm tempted to have every single hose replaced with braided and hides some wires inside some kevlar hose but I know its going to destory the previous budget by a lot but it will look so sweet
 
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