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Supercharger noise - '99 GTP

SnowDrift

SnowDrift

New member
The S/C sounds pretty noisy. Bearings, I'm assuming? Are there rebuilds available or am I looking at just replacing the bearings? What kind of job is this?

I had a new coupler put in this a while back and I guess I don't suspect that is making the rattling noise.
 


i personally wouldnt bother rebuilding a gen 3 blower (which i'm assuming you have) or pissing around with the bearing's and crap like that...

i would just get a new blower..... Prime time for a genV (considering they are selling for dirt cheap anymore)
 
http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2...uct_Code=INT-SCC&Category_Code=3800_Induction
Above is the coupler I used.

I checked the oil and it's not overflowing out the plug hole, but it's not so far down that I believe it's been starved. Just below the hole. Does it need to be 100% full for it to not have an ill effect?

Not worth a rebuilt snout? Intense has them for $150, by the looks of it. Are you suggesting the entire supercharger is bad? I don't know the difference between GenIII and GenV. What goes bad on the remainder of the S/C? I thought just the snout could lose bearings.

Red? I searched the username "red" and he's never had a post here. Is this the right member? I assume it is not.
 


SnowDrift said:
Not worth a rebuilt snout? Intense has them for $150, by the looks of it. Are you suggesting the entire supercharger is bad? I don't know the difference between GenIII and GenV.
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For $150, you can buy a full Gen3 blower lol

for $175-$300 or so. you can buy a full gen V

GenV is a more efficient blower... There's a few thread's here about the key differences between the two
 
SnowDrift said:
What goes bad on the remainder of the S/C? I thought just the snout could lose bearings.
Click to expand...

There are bearings on the shaft in the snout. Then two bearings in the centre section that holds the rotors in place. Finally there are two more in the case itself at the other end of the rotors.

The two in the centre are not replaceable. There is an aussie who went through the trouble of replacing them, but you might as well buy a new rotor pack at that point. The snout ones require a press, and the case bearings need to have holes drilled and tapped behind them and pressed out with grease.
 


I had the same issue right after I got my GTP and it ended up being the rear rotor bearings. here is a pic to give you an idea where they are

to get them out you have to drill and tap 2 holes at the bottom side of the supercharger case for 1/8'' npt, then use a grease gun to push them out. here is a pic of the holes.

then of course you have to clean up and press new ones.
 
Pretty sure it's the snout bearings. I took it off last night and the bearings sound dry. Is there any sealer that goes between the plate behind the snout between this plate (holds the one end of the screws) and the S/C case?
 
SnowDrift said:
Pretty sure it's the snout bearings. I took it off last night and the bearings sound dry. Is there any sealer that goes between the plate behind the snout between this plate (holds the one end of the screws) and the S/C case?
Click to expand...

Yes you use a very thin coat of gasket maker/rtv between the snout housing and the rotor pack plate. the snout is easy to rebuild if you have access to a press.
 
sagillman said:
Yes you use a very thin coat of gasket maker/rtv between the snout housing and the rotor pack plate. the snout is easy to rebuild if you have access to a press.
Click to expand...

I mean is there anything between the rotor pack plate and the S/C case?

Probably should press the bearings out myself, but I don't have a puller for the pulley. Does the puller HAVE to be a S/C pulley puller, or can another type be adapted to work? If I recall correctly, the last time, it came off fine when the guy at INTENSE took it off.
 
As far as I know there is no sealant between the plate and the main housing. if you have access to a press and your rebuilding the snout you don't need the puller, just remove the pulley bolt, and press the snout shaft out through the housing. once that happens the pulley should fall right off as soon as you release the pressure on the press. I have rebuilt many rear ends and manual transmissions so none of this was very difficult for me. here are a couple of videos I used for a reference.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7lYCuj4w2Q
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1H47_d4JTI
these are not my videos just to be clear.
 


Ok, you talked me into it. I cancelled the shipment and will just do this myself. Thanks for the great video links. Those make it look very reasonable to do myself.

I'm using the stock pulley - how far do I press it back onto the shaft? Does it only go so far? Press until the pulley is flush with the end of the shaft, I assume.
 
SnowDrift said:
Ok, you talked me into it. I cancelled the shipment and will just do this myself. Thanks for the great video links. Those make it look very reasonable to do myself.

I'm using the stock pulley - how far do I press it back onto the shaft? Does it only go so far? Press until the pulley is flush with the end of the shaft, I assume.
Click to expand...

yep, when I was pressing the pulley back on I released pressure on the press 2-3 times to check my progress, I didn't want to go to far. It wasn't very hard to do this, hell it took longer to clean everything out then it took to press the bearings on or off.
 
I got this all apart last night by pressing everything out myself. My question is about the shaft. It was protruding past the end plate about 1/8" or so. When I reinstall, should it be exactly flush?

On edit, I watched the part 2 video and he mentions that some shafts will protrude, but all the parts back up against a shoulder.
 
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