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Modding to 300 hp

get the tune last, do headers first then rockers you dont really need a tune for those mods i just wouldnt beat on the car at all, then drop the pulley and get the tune. the key is between the time you drop the pulley and the time you get the tune in the car DONT beat on it i wouldnt even go into boost at all unless you wanna add a new motor to your summer build i know its been over said but it really is better to be safe then sorry
 


get the tune last, do headers first then rockers you dont really need a tune for those mods i just wouldnt beat on the car at all, then drop the pulley and get the tune. the key is between the time you drop the pulley and the time you get the tune in the car DONT beat on it i wouldnt even go into boost at all unless you wanna add a new motor to your summer build i know its been over said but it really is better to be safe then sorry

the main thing in not destoying my motor is knock correct? I use the app Torque to moniter my obd. So after starting to mod just watch for knock correct? right now I have an alarm that will go off if i go over 3° of knock (and if it starts to overheat). I will hit 3° if I go up a steep hill or floor it. havent got more than 4° so far.
 


the cat back is not restrictive unless you have like 400whp or something like that so its all in your head, knock isnt the only thing bad for your motor watch the timming and the air to fuel those matter just as much
 
the cat back is not restrictive unless you have like 400whp or something like that so its all in your head, knock isnt the only thing bad for your motor watch the timming and the air to fuel those matter just as much
what should I be looking for in the timing? For air/fuel I would need a wideband 02 correct?
 


what should I be looking for in the timing? For air/fuel I would need a wideband 02 correct?

You don't want to run low timing it raises your egt's and is very bad for the motor. Should be around 16* wot timing. You need a wideband o2 for afr. I have one and found out my car is running really rich. Hoping to have it tuned good within a few weeks.
 
wideband and a scan gauge are the 2 best mods for your car IMHO... that way you always know exactly whats going all the time and can be extra safe...

would be like wearing a condom, pulling out, using birth control AND plan B all at once... 0 chance of pregnancy.... ;)

I hit just over 300 to the wheels on rockers, IC, and a 3.1 a year and a half ago in mine so you should be more than there after all this im sure...
 
Reading this thread I can't what to throw on my 3.4 top swap parts and cam my GT, I got the handling down, the the transmission down, the 245/45/17s and now as my wife says "it just needs more power!!" I love my wife.
 


Reading this thread I can't what to throw on my 3.4 top swap parts and cam my GT, I got the handling down, the the transmission down, the 245/45/17s and now as my wife says "it just needs more power!!" I love my wife.

what do you mean you have the trans down?
 
wideband and a scan gauge are the 2 best mods for your car IMHO... that way you always know exactly whats going all the time and can be extra safe...

would be like wearing a condom, pulling out, using birth control AND plan B all at once... 0 chance of pregnancy.... ;)

I hit just over 300 to the wheels on rockers, IC, and a 3.1 a year and a half ago in mine so you should be more than there after all this im sure...

I have Torque app on android and can see everything I want to except I'd like the oil pressure which I hear is coming soon. I can see both O2s but don't have wideband. From what I've read .2v is lean and .7v is rich. I know that it's. Not very acurate but is this good enough for now

I went out to day and got 12* timing with zero knock (I think it hit 5* for a second but I wasnt logging so I'm not positive), which I was excited about.

** forgot to ask what's the difference in rear and front O2? Thanks!
 
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