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Lost a belt - GP may be dead

Depression strikes again. Got it all back together except for compact spare on front so I could tighten the last nut. All fluids good. Had to add 1 quart of trans fluid. Went inside for 5 minutes and it looked like I just poured it on the ground. I assume it is the filler but I can't find the part number. Way too many choices on the website so I may have to call the dealer. We don't have a pull apart near by

Also. If anyone needs new steering parts then buy OEM. System is bled and everything is new, lines, pump, rack, and it still whines a little when I turn the wheel.

Had to spend another $20 on brake parts, so for about $500 I got

New pads
New rotors
Rebuilt calipers
New power steering pump
New power steering rack
New water pump
New sway bar
Coolant flush
Brake flush

To do list
Remove rust
Paint new rear bumper and put it on
Alignment
Oil change
Repair transmission leak and the replace pan and filter
Fix clear coat
 


that tube will leak only when filling it. makes a nice mess for sure.

not sure if you bled it right or not. both wheels off the ground, engine off, turn lock to lock 10 to 15 times, this will bleed the air out of the rack.
 
Crap. Did it with the engine running. Did it until no mor bubbles seen in the pump. You think I damaged it running it for a minute?
 
Ok. Did it without car on. Every time my daughter turns the wheel left I hear air bubbles. Did it literally 30 times. And still have a noise when I turn the wheel. Is there a way for air to get into the system? The four connections - 2 to the rack and 2 to the pump - are tight.

As a quick question - the top of the shocks that you see when you open the hood move when I turn the wheel. Is this normal or do I need new mounts?
 
First test drive. When I got back trans at minimum. I have 1/2 bottle of dex/merc. Can I add that? In 2004 the supercharged Grand Prix used that then in 06 changed to dexton VI. Is there really a difference? Can I add the 1/2 until I change it in a few weeks?

And new symptom. Engine temp gauge never gets above 1/4. Why?
 


engine temp is fine now, new parts installed flushed and bled well.

if you look close on the stick, theres a hot and cold line, get the car and tranny warmed up, parked on level ground, then check and add as needed.
 
I saw that but it is listed as part number 12553596 for the m15 transmission. I think that supercharged cars have the mn7 and the part number I think is 15807640. But I am not sure so that's why I'm calling the dealer. I just need the correct part number and then I can order it. The Tonkin parts website I use has literally 10 transmission filler tubes listed for the diagram for my car.

The real question is are all the tubes the same and am I over thinking it?

So after my drive I rechecked the power steering fluid and there was a pressure build up in the reservoir. Can it be sucking air in somewhere but not have a leak?
 
First real test drive. I fixed everything! but found the one thing that may kill the car.

First the good - steering noise gone, no coolant smell. Temps all good.

The bad - still 1/2 quart low on trans fluid and filler broken. Ordered new parts and bought a new filter which came with a rubber gasket. So rtv or no when I put it on?

The ugly - and this is for you BillBoost - the car may be really dead. Heard a squeak from the R rear. Checked the top of the shock tower and I see road salt from last winter on the inside of the trunk. Uh oh. I have not seen a fix for this on line except some odd attempts like steel bracing. L side has a little rust on the inside. I guess before I put another dime into it I need to get this sorted.
 


heres a tip for ya, might be best to un bolt the old busted bracket, fire the car up cold, then pull the dip stick out, have a pan under the tranny as fluid comes out when its off, aka a lot will come out, running very little to none should come, push the new one in place, reuse the old rubber grommet thats gonna stay in the pan, shut the engine off. wait for it to cool back down to work on the bolt, its a 10 mm, dont loose it lol

you helper will be a big help here. one pulling it up and out, and then drop the new one down to you under the car. should be a 20 second swap.
 
Pulled the rear shock. Tower surface rust only. There is a seam seen from inside the wheel well that water has gotten in. Going to clean it up and try to re seal it? The bottom bolt would not come out, so I had to pull the whole hub off the suspension. Pain.

For the dipstick change I'm going to drop the pan to change the trans oil. So when I replace the filler tube should be empty. I was too scared to climb under a running car.

Anyway. Car should almost be new when I get done. Good for another 200,000K
 
dgjks6 said:
Pulled the rear shock. Tower surface rust only. There is a seam seen from inside the wheel well that water has gotten in. Going to clean it up and try to re seal it? The bottom bolt would not come out, so I had to pull the whole hub off the suspension. Pain.

For the dipstick change I'm going to drop the pan to change the trans oil. So when I replace the filler tube should be empty. I was too scared to climb under a running car.

Anyway. Car should almost be new when I get done. Good for another 200,000K
Click to expand...
I've yet to see an 04+ car with rotten rear stut towers as of yet, the addition of the plastic rear wheel well liners on 01+ cars really made that a 97-00 issue only for the most part.
 
The car was hit sometime. The fender well liner is cracked. I guess that explains why this was a right sided only phenomenon. Is did leak salt and water through that seam. On of the bolts on the strut top was rusted.
 


Ok. Transmission pan off

Reuse metal factory gasket or use the cheap rubber one that came in the kit or go buy a new metal one?

So I say where the dipstick goes into the transmission. It's a few inches long. Why did leak when I added transmission fluid?

What can I use to seal the seam in the wheel well?

A new wheel well liner is $75. I found a pull apart 1/2 hour away. Going to call them tomorrow. But I am going to replace that so this problem does not recur. I do think it is Devine intervention. I saw a problem on line about strut towers. Thught it applied to my car, but doesn't. I did know that so I checked and found the problem. Yeah for me.
 
the bracket with the bolt is likely busted off, or cracked, or the tube split.

re use the thick stock gasket, clean it well with brake cleaner, same for the pan.
 
reuse gasket, check

pic of inside of wheel well, the not sure how to seal it because I do not see an opening, thought I know water got it because I can see salt in the trunk

IMG_0114.jpg


And now for my step back and maybe a fire. So I pulled the enigne forward an inch, Was able to put my arm down there and loosen the bolt for the trans filler tube (the weld between the mount and the tube broke) in preparation for may new parts tomorrow which arrive via mail at 12:30. Then refill with several quarts of walmarts finest dexron vi. Was all proud if myself untill I smelled gas.

This leaks now - I must have stretched it when I stuck my arm behind the engine. So if I move it alot it leaks. Do I need to replace it or is that normal and when it is under pressure it doesn't leak? And if so how? Not in a place I want to do a big test on being right above the manifold.

Unless I burn the car and collect insurance. But first would need to reinstate full coverage. I don't think it would look suspicious of I called, reinstated full coverage, and burned the car down same day.

IMG_0106.jpg
 
that should be a quick disconnect line to the rail. looks like a hose clamp on the hose? so maybe someone has replaced the line at some point for some reason.
 
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