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Lost a belt - GP may be dead

Crap. Was deleting photos from my phone while at work and realized I forgot to put the plastic cover under the balancer. Two steps forward and one back.
 


Got home from work. Pulled crank bolt and balancer stuck. Back to the store for a rental puller.


So pulled the front left hub - which the mechanic said was bad but I thought was good and turns out it is bad. It is very tough to turn

Then turned my attention to the brakes. Went to retract the calipers. Now remember that the inside of both brake rotors was worn and one thought was caliper would go out but not back. Anyway, could not retract rotors. Took off reservoir cap - which I have never needed to do in the past and then was able to compress the calipers.

So can too much brake fluid cause a problem? I just did the rears a few weeks ago and when I compressed the calipers I did not open the brake fluid.
 
i always open the cap on all cars, cause your pushing fluid back in the res tank, that air needs to go somewhere, and you can suck some out if its gonna over flow.
 
This project keeps going and going. Today replaced balancer, exchanged bad bearing. Bought rotors and hardware kit. I think I am going to rebuild the front calipers. Need to order new seals and pistons.
 
Update time. Had to work go to work to pay for the repairs. Today got home and decided to rebuild the calipers and see if that was why the front inside of both rotors was dirty and uneven. After much research the diagnosis is pads won't retract. So I took the calipers off and took the pistons out. What I learned is that I need to flush the brake fluid once in a while. My German cars have me so it every two years so I have a motive power bleeder. In the GP for the last 10 years I would just drain a bunch of brake fluid by bleeding the brakes when I changed the pads/rotors.

Well the pistons on the bottom were coated with muck. Luckily it all came off and there was no pitting. So I am going to replace the gasket and dust seal and one bleed valve (which I rounded off trying to remove it). I spent the evening cleaning the calipers and brackets in preparation for paint. Think I am going to go silver.

And I tightened the crank bolt. Spec was 111 lbs plus 76 degrees. Don't know if that is possible. I put two bolts in the screw holes and a breaker bar in between them and wedged it under the frame and tightened. I got to the point I could not tightened it any more and the torque wrench never clicked. I think I have a bad torque wrench. I can't see another 76 degrees out of it and it is on tight.

Anyway, off to put the subframe back up.
 


Well it's a bad news and bad news kind of night. Got the subframe up. Connected the steering wheel. And lost the 11mm bolt for the knuckle. And at the same time I have cleaned up everything looking for other leaks and guess what? The transmission pan has a leak.

So what size bolt?

Is the transmission pan gasket hard to change?
 
dgjks6 said:
Well it's a bad news and bad news kind of night. Got the subframe up. Connected the steering wheel. And lost the 11mm bolt for the knuckle. And at the same time I have cleaned up everything looking for other leaks and guess what? The transmission pan has a leak.

So what size bolt?

Is the transmission pan gasket hard to change?
Click to expand...

Trans pan gasket is very easy...20 min job. Get a new filter and fluid, alot of filter kits come with a gasket if your original re usable gasket is bad.
 
Bored at work update thread.

Bought new hardware for the brakes and rotors $110
Caliper rebuild kit and paint $20 - ordered and having kids pick it up at summit racing - the only advantage of living in Akron is you can get pretty much any part same day

Total parts $568

The bolt I lost is an M10 1.5 so off to Home Depot after work

Before I remove any more rust or spend any more money like replacing the trans gasket I am going to put everything back together and see if it runs

Other question - the plastic shield over the crank pulley broke into many pieces when the belt let loose. Any idea what that is called

Also just FYI - I did not have a brake line clamp and could not find vice grips so the lines are slowly dripping. I have a kid go out every few hours and top off the reservoir. At least I should have partially clean fluid when I put the brakes back on.
 
dgjks6 said:
Bored at work update thread.


Other question - the plastic shield over the crank pulley broke into many pieces when the belt let loose. Any idea what that is called

imho : local junkyard would prolly be cheapest.

Also just FYI - I did not have a brake line clamp and could not find vice grips so the lines are slowly dripping. I have a kid go out every few hours and top off the reservoir. At least I should have partially clean fluid when I put the brakes back on.
Click to expand...

That's not so bad... that's actually a method, "gravity bleeding" , great if you have the time....
 
thats gonna be a lot of fluid if your not working on it asap.

if it comes to it. let it drain, then bleed the master. being you gots a helper now, easy work.
 


Found the power steering bolt

Hit another road block

1-how do you center the sway bar?

2-I found the transmission leak. Somehow I dislodged the dipstick when I raised the rack. How do you fix this?
 
dip stick might be busted now. if its ll loose up top now its been torn from its little bracket thats bolted on the back side.

sway bar is kinda self centering, with the end links installed, then snug up the bushing brackets. you can wrap the bar with teflon tape to keep it from squeaking down the road. polly bushing are a good idea too.
 
Correct again. Is there anything you haven't seen? So the weld on the bracket to the tube busted. I think I'm dropping the subframe again. Looks easier to get to that bolt that way
 
i know this dip stick one cause mine is currently broken as well lol ive yet to replace it, it only leaks when you fill it. sooo. no rush right?
 
You'll need a different dipstick. What usually happens is the spot welds rip off the tube and make a couple small holes.

Hit a jy with about 2-3 feet of extension and a swivel 10mm. Lean over from the top and you can get it. Wiggle tube and hopefully it's $5 or less out the door.
 


So when I changed the plugs I removed the front dog bones and pulled the engine forward an inch. This will give me good acces to the trans bolt. Is there a problem moving the engine like this?
 
Not a problem whatsoever. It can be moved up, down, side to side. Won't hurt it a bit. I would say it can move at least 3-5 inches in almost every direction.
 
Well I found the best way to paint your hands silver. It's a little complicated so bear with me. First remove the calipers then sand them down after disassembly. Then paint them silver with caliper paint. Then when rebuilding them use brake fluid to lubricate everything. And spill some for good measure. It dissolves the new paint and then every time you touch the caliper your hands turn silver. And here is the interesting part. Th paint with the brake fluid will not dry on the caliper but will dry almost immediately on your hands.
 
you just learned a lesson here. always do your rebuilding of parts first,t hen paint them after the fact.

your gonna need some brake cleaner or dare i say, more brake fluid to remove the paint, clean and prep once again, then paint.

de greaser might work here, but it leaves a film so brake cleaner after or duplicolor prep spray.
 
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