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Lost a belt - GP may be dead



Ok. Progress update. Started another leak thread but I got that solved so I am back here. So far I have removed the left brake and rotor, right brake and rotor, right hub, power steering pump, tie rod and bolts off strut and axle out. It just pulled out by hand. Harmonic balance off, battery out. New power steering pump picked up.

Plans now - remove front under cladding and drain radiator. Remove power steering rack. Remove water pump.

Good news if that I have had so many rusted parts and leaks over the years that all my fluids look great.

Then start reassembly.

Time for questions.

Is it bad to leave to oil filter off, crank exposed, and place where axle goes in the transmission open for long periods of time?

Do i need to replace any seals?

Why is there a c clamp on the end of the axle?

Costs so far - and this is between us, don't tell my wife

$23 for a new belt

$5 for a deep 22mm 3/8 socket to remove bolt on strut (that is all autozone had) - it broke my 3/8 craftsman socket, so then

$6 for a deep 1/2 drive socket

$106 for the Husky Home Depot air impact gun. Which did not work and I had to use the red neck way to get the crank bolt off. And why didn't someone tell me to disconnect the spark plugs? It took 3 try's. First try had the handle the wrong way which led to a large dent in the oil filter. Second quick try of the ignition did not work. Third quick turn of the key worked. Started the car, removed the bolt, and wedged the breaker bar in the suspension.

$3 for bolts and washers for the puller I borrowed from Autozone that was the correct shape but wrong bolts.

So total so far $23 for parts and $120 for tools

Gas and time don't count. But I have made 4 trips to autozone and 2 to Home Depot.

And I have returned to my old ways of leaving my tools everywhere. I need to clean up tonight.
 
your not even in deep yet, some mishaps but you learned what what the engine turns now lol

you can leave all that stuff open, or use some duct tape to cover the holes up. either way, dont really mater much.
 
For your enjoyment, my daily update
First some pics of the beast
IMG_0085.jpg

IMG_0087.jpg


today removed water pump
IMG_0093.jpg


and the sway bar (first unintended injury - the mount for the sway bar to the ?A arm broke) and the sub frame dropped. Had to stop - need an 18mm wrench for the power steering lines
IMG_0096.jpg
 
OK, so I took off the stabilizer bar and broke the mount. When I went to look for the part on a parts diagram all I saw was a stabilizer link. My car did not have a link, just a long bolt with a bunch of bushings in it? Does that sound right?
 


Thanks guys. Was worried the shop that did the rack last time put some improvised thing on there. Plan today is remove rack and then get all the parts.

How do you tell if a hub bearing is bad? The shop said the front left was bad but is has no play and spins smoothly. The ones I have had that went bad were all on their way to being frozen.
 


Ok. Serious question. What oil should I use? Ok. Kidding. On the forums that usually starts a debate. Anyway. Water pump is going back on. I am going to pony up the $15 for the metal gasket. Do I use a sealer with this or not? I also ordered new bolts.
 
to really know you need to scan the abs.

oil dont matter. metal gasket, and no rtv at all on it. dry install.

the 4 long bolts need that sealant we talked about in the past, or they can leak.
 
Ok nightly update

Rack off
Sway bar broke (rusted end snapped)

So tools total
$3 bolts
$3 16mm wrench
$10 18mm wrench
$11 2 21mm socket
$106 air gun

Total $133

Parts
$23 belt
$71 new axle
$102 new sway bar
$13 water pump gasket
$3 bolts for puller

Total parts $212

Free
Brake pads and harware
Upper radiator hose
Power steering pump
Water pump

This is getting expensive quickly.

Ordered rotors, rack, bolts

I now know how to define middle class white trash (me) - I used large new cardboard box we bought at Home Depot for $3 to keep my white t shirt clean from the oil stains on the garage floor.
 
cardboard is a staple. used some today.

you've yet to spend any money. 200 random bucks here and there is way better then a monthly car payment.
 
I dropped just under $400 for new struts and mounts last week, and I'm spending another $250 for the rest next monday...

$200 to fix something that could keep you (or family) from getting to work/school is completely worth it.

I've dropped well over the value of the car into it, and I'm just barely getting started. But I plan on keeping this car indefinitely, so I count it as an investment. lol
 


Real question. All parts in my possession. I got new water pump bolts. They are coated with the blue thread locker. Do I still need to add more sealer to them prior to install?
 
New bolts aren't really necessary. I've only bought new bolts when the old ones were rusted solid or when threads got damaged. Suspension bolts come to mind since they are exposed. But since you get em...I would wipe off all the thread locker. Just use the thread sealer. Those aren't bolts that need locking. Caliper bolts might need locking, not water pump bolts though. Use your finger to smear black RTV on the water pump itself where the gasket will touch, and again on the engine block. Put it all together and let it cure for 24hrs if you can. Should seal up good.

Also, cardboard doesn't make you white trash. LOL. It's how cars have been getting fixed since the beginning of time.
 
its the 4 long bolts that need the sealant. so if your not talking about them, yes sealant is needed.

if you did get the 4 long bolts with the little bolts thats thread sealant on them already. install as is.
 
Also, cardboard doesn't make you white trash. LOL. It's how cars have been getting fixed since the beginning of time.

Well, at least since the advent of cardboard. LOL. I wholeheartedly second this opinion. I'm always on the lookout for proper cardboard to stash in the corner of my basement. My latest/greatest is the box our Smart TV came in. High quality graphics, real slippery....Thank You, Samsung...
 
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