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L67 "Inspection" Advice



After I saw the destruction yesterday, my first thought was to bring the whole thing back, so I put it back together (mostly), took it off the stand, and put it back on the hoist. Now that I'm considering my options and seeing that I can use a SII or SIII N/A block, I'm undecided on what the next step should be. Today I'm going to put it back on the stand, pull off the supercharger and heads. If they are not salvageable then I will continue my previous plan of returning the whole thing and starting over with nothing.

If they are salvageable though, I've got a lot more research to do on using a N/A short block. I think I've got a good list of the parts I need off the L67 (for both the topswap and the w-body specific brackets/mounts), but if I strip all of that off this engine and try to return it like that they're not going to give me a refund.
 


Ring gap was much tighter.

On that motor, return it. It's got the 1001 pieces of piston mod. As for brackets etc. There's only a couple that you need for W body specific.

The motor mount horseshoe bracket. Keep the one off that motor, they aren't going to know. The other is the alternator bracket and coil pack bracket. Both are very easy to come by.
 
isnt ring gap used as a measurement for the rings applied tension on a cylinder wall, too much gap and you get blow-by, too tight a gap and the ends can butt togather causeing dmg

??:confused:
 


Good news, maybe! I pulled off the SC and the heads today. The heads look like they're alright at first glance There is a lot of debris, but I didn't feel any damage. I'll do a thorough cleaning tomorrow, and take a closer look at them and the SC.

The block is mostly disassembled. I think the only thing I forgot to pull off that I will need is the crank pulley.
IMG_7980.jpg


Here's the bad cylinder
IMG_7976.jpg


A pair of grooves worn into the cylinder wall
IMG_7977.jpg
 
Show us a picture of that head. With the marks on the top of that piston rod...I would have trouble believing the head didn't get bashed up like the rod.

That motor is junk, you'd be wise to return it and get one out of something non-w body.
 
BillBoost37 said:
Show us a picture of that head. With the marks on the top of that piston rod...I would have trouble believing the head didn't get bashed up like the rod.

That motor is junk, you'd be wise to return it and get one out of something non-w body.
Click to expand...

I am absolutely returning it. But I'm keeping all of the w-body parts and topswap parts. I'll have pictures of the heads today once I get it all cleaned up and the valves removed. A closer inspection of the SC will have to wait until I can get a pulley puller. From what I can tell now that it's separated from the LIM, I think those scratches I saw through the TB are purely superficial. Any debris that may have gotten in there was my own fault when I flipped the engine upside-down, and I haven't spun the pulley so that debris couldn't have caused much (if any) damage to the rotors or walls. Should I even bother trying to use a 3-jaw puller on this pulley, or just wait until I can get the proper tool? I'm looking at the ZZP one, it looks like the nicest one and they all cost about the same amount.
 
There is no need to remove the pulley to inspect a charger. You did not cause anything to go into the charger when you inverted the motor.

Pieces of piston can and do flow back up the intake valve and into the intake, then up through the SC bypass valve into the charger and rotors. That's a Gen 3 charger, a lot of people are selling them so cheap it's not worth playing with it.

On the puller. I have the ZZP one, I've used the others, they all work about the same. If you attempt this with that 3 jaw puller, you will hate your life, the puller and basically wish you had waited. It will be a serious learning experience from what most guys that use the wrong tool have said.
 
I agree with Bill. Gen 3 m90's are very easy and cheap to come by, so not worth messing with this one. I also wouldn't trust the heads.

That whole engine gives me bad vibes.
 


To give you a better idea, when I found this
IMG_4623.jpg


And this....
IMG_4620.jpg


It led me to this
IMG_4656.jpg


I also found this
IMG_4651.jpg


Which ensures you have, this
IMG_4669.jpg



And this
IMG_4664.jpg


So I did this
IMG_4674.jpg


Which led me to this


Then this....
IMG_4788.jpg
 
41078a5aadf6f8cd820af903fe85dcd3.jpg


Typical M90 case when torn apart. It will have some rubbing marks in them, they all do over time. Especially with the 200k+ on it and a broken piston, it saw a hard life. Some even have dark discoloration from heat, this is pretty well normal too. I wouldn't worry about the charger, after all, like said, cheap to replace.

But as with what was said mutiple times... put that poor thing back together and take it back to where you found it. Not worth the hassle, even if it was free. Just No.

car-part.com <- search there for local pick'n pull type yards with motors.

EDIT: I hate you for having so many options nearby. You said no motors.... lies! use the site, search engine, vin# 1 for the SC motor and organize by distance, there are TONS!!! $500-1000+ depending on miles and complete or not
 
BillBoost37 said:
There is no need to remove the pulley to inspect a charger. You did not cause anything to go into the charger when you inverted the motor.

Pieces of piston can and do flow back up the intake valve and into the intake, then up through the SC bypass valve into the charger and rotors. That's a Gen 3 charger, a lot of people are selling them so cheap it's not worth playing with it.
Click to expand...

Gen3 may be cheap, but this one I already have, and I'm trying to do this on the smallest budget I can possibly manage. And now that I'm going to end up with a high compression N/A block, I have to remove the pulley anyway to install a larger one. So I want to take it apart to get a better look at it and clean out the debris. If it's no good, I'll return it also with the rest of the stuff. I'm not going to return parts that may be usable because they're not going to easy to replace for the same price I paid.

TLSheff said:
But as with what was said mutiple times... put that poor thing back together and take it back to where you found it. Not worth the hassle, even if it was free. Just No.

car-part.com <- search there for local pick'n pull type yards with motors.

EDIT: I hate you for having so many options nearby. You said no motors.... lies! use the site, search engine, vin# 1 for the SC motor and organize by distance, there are TONS!!! $500-1000+ depending on miles and complete or not
Click to expand...

I am aware of car-part.com, and I have been watching it since day 1 (last November). There are no pick'n'pull yards on car-part (at least none of the ones within 300 miles), those are all what I'd call "recycled parts dealers" rather than "junkyards". Pretty much all of the same engines that were there then are still there now. So yes, there are L67s available here, but let's go back to my initial search... I *had* to find an L67 that came from a W-body. That limits me to Regal and Grand Prix. There is now one 98GP L67 at the closest place, which right down the street in fact. It has 220k miles, no price is listed. The next is $750 and that doesn't even include the supercharger. For a w-body L67, the actual price range is $750-$1000 for *only* the motor, which may or may not include a single bracket or mount that I need. Then I still need a transmission on top of that, another $400-$600 from car-part dealers. Now, at my only local pick'n'pull yard, I got a complete motor, wiring harness, PCM, transmission, all accessories, supercharger, a pair of axles, for under $700. Some of the accessories I may not need if they are the same as my originals, so I may be able to return them and have gotten an even better deal. This is why I chose to pull it from this yard myself. Now it may not have seemed like such a great deal, seeing the condition of what I did get. But I can still return the block, find another, buy it, and I've still paid less than any of the bare engines on car-part.


Now... Here are the heads. There is damage, the valve seats look perfect though.

IMG_7984.jpg


IMG_7981.jpg


Obviously it's not perfect, but keeping in mind that I can't easily replace these at my local pick'n'pull, they don't look all that bad to me... Unless I can find someone selling a pair for a ridiculously low price + shipping, these might be my best shot.
 
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