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Just got car now knocking

in the tune you take a degree of timing out at wot. the high compression block dont like as much timing when boosted or you get KR and thats what chips pistons. top swapped you dont want any kr. along with a bunch of other little things changed to make the tune better.

a bottom swapped engine with the stock pulley runs about as fast as a 3.4 pulley on a l67. so its gonna have a bit more power vs what your used to.

not many can do a caned tune for a 05. over kill is about it iirc you can buy a dhp interface for like 250, and tune it yourself, or ive helped a load of guys out via email. only you need to have a dhp tuner on your end for that to work.
 


Scottydoggs said:
in the tune you take a degree of timing out at wot. the high compression block dont like as much timing when boosted or you get KR and thats what chips pistons. top swapped you dont want any kr. along with a bunch of other little things changed to make the tune better.

a bottom swapped engine with the stock pulley runs about as fast as a 3.4 pulley on a l67. so its gonna have a bit more power vs what your used to.

not many can do a caned tune for a 05. over kill is about it iirc you can buy a dhp interface for like 250, and tune it yourself, or ive helped a load of guys out via email. only you need to have a dhp tuner on your end for that to work.
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How much is the tuner? Where do I get it from?
 
If I were you, instead of pulling back timing, ID just get a bigger pulley. That'd be much easier and cheaper.
 


a 4.0, stock is 3.8. yes you need a longer belt.

in my eyes, thats not worth it, 50-100 for a pulley, rent or buy a pulley puller 100, the longer belt, 20.

could buy a tuner for 250 and sell it for what you paid for it pretty much.
 
I'd go with 4.2. If you can find a local guy with a pulley puller, you could get it all done for probably $100. Then, you don't have to learn how to tune.

To keep it from knocking on a stock pulley, you'd have to pull timing back a lot. Most high compression motors I've tuned need headers, intake, ect. at a minimum to run a stock pulley with stockish timing.

There are obviously a few different ways to do this. I've done a few like this, and if you are looking to keep it as cheap and simple as possible, and sell someone a reliable car, turning down the boost is pretty hard to beat.
 
GTPpower said:
I'd go with 4.2. If you can find a local guy with a pulley puller, you could get it all done for probably $100. Then, you don't have to learn how to tune.

To keep it from knocking on a stock pulley, you'd have to pull timing back a lot. Most high compression motors I've tuned need headers, intake, ect. at a minimum to run a stock pulley with stockish timing.

There are obviously a few different ways to do this. I've done a few like this, and if you are looking to keep it as cheap and simple as possible, and sell someone a reliable car, turning down the boost is pretty hard to beat.
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Sounds like a good idea. What about tusing though? Can I use a regular obd cable? I seen that dhp software for download
 


GTPpower said:
You would have to buy the avt 841 box that was posted earlier in this thread.
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I finally had a chance to fool around with the gtp today. I put I breaker bar on it and it broke free. Why would engine lock up if it didn't run hot? Coolant in oil would cause it to lock up in such a short period of time? Fifteen minutes? Do the l32 have problems with the lower intake gaskets leaking cause locking up of the engine? I'm going to be mad if this thing is only hydrolocked. I just ordered another engine today.
 
Spun bearings will cause them to lock up.

The later l32's had revised intake gaskets...I think it was somewhere after 06, but couldn't tell you for sure.
 
if they are not the same you can swap it. if you have the al pan in your car you just use rtv to install it on the block.
 
Ok thanks. What about when torquing the heads down? After torquing the head the extra angle. How do I do that without the angle tool? Is it necessary
 


are you top swapping it? if theres no need to pull the heads dont pull em off.

the angle tool id buy one, its 10 bucks. use a breaker bar for the degree-ing the bolts, not your toque wrench.
 
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