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if anyone needs intake ideas...



Bio248 said:
i stand corrected. id like to see an open cone on there, but it doesnt have it.
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We learned that adding a K&N filter to an intake tube will not decrease flow. In fact, at times, flow went up from an open tube (using clean large K&N).
We learned that small filters do not flow very well even if they are clean. A 4" inlet filter seems to be needed for maximizing flow.
 
So does gutting the stock intake box and getting a different piping with a cone filter actually suffice for increasing air flow?
 
carlillo said:
Hi I just installed projector headlights , but everytime they r on everything starts flickering ... Can anyone help me out with this one please? , actually the projector doesnt go on anymore
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Good job. Because intakes have to do with headlights.
 
This is what I made and it seems to work great. the other end is completely open. its made of aluminum to "disperse" heat quicker. probly doesnt make a difference. but i feel better with some sort of heat shield.
utmsyrn.jpg
 


you should have taken out the part of the intake that was restrictive. that corrugated tubing is your problem, not the air box.
 
Bio248 said:
you should have taken out the part of the intake that was restrictive. that corrugated tubing is your problem, not the air box.
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yeah i know. that picture was more for the air box. i got rid of the stock black tubing part. i dont know if i have a picture or not though.
 
If we build our own intake out of PVC and create a heat shield similar to colindunn, what size k&n is best? 9"?
 
vrooom said:
If we build our own intake out of PVC and create a heat shield similar to colindunn, what size k&n is best? 9"?
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it really depends on the size and how far away it is. what i used was just a standard size cone filter. Pretty sure its the 9". So that should work. Or you can just buy a filter, then build everything else so that it fits. your choice.
 


I would suggest using the stock airbox for the heat shield and PVC or Aluminum for the tubing. The stock box with a K&N cone filter will flow more air than even the M90 engine needs and supply the required heat shield. With most modifications.

My experiance with the M90 on the GM 3.8L I have not seen the stock air box not be able to handle the air supply demand using it as a heat shield. I have seen the stock box fail on other M90 applications. Literally suck the box in and make the clips unsnap. The flow numbers for that setup were over 500cfm and from the information above these heads don't require that much CFM on any application I have seen.

Not saying there are not applications that wouldn't benefit, but just haven't seen one that truly requires it.

If you want to cut up your stock airbox for the inlet hole that can be done as well and still provide a heat shield if done properly.
 
Well I ran the open cone for a few days and it's defenitely doing more KR with my setup. I don't have a KR scanner, but it's doing that thing again where it has more power at 90% throttle than it does at WOT.

I'll put back my home made intake later on, but the MAF screen got torn to pieces when I took it off LoL.

Also, I see a lot of comments on stock boxes, but you don't say what year box. The newest versions are better than the 98 one I think, mine had 2 90° bends and a 3" fender side intake.
 
GreyGhost said:
I would suggest using the stock airbox for the heat shield and PVC or Aluminum for the tubing. The stock box with a K&N cone filter will flow more air than even the M90 engine needs and supply the required heat shield. With most modifications.

My experiance with the M90 on the GM 3.8L I have not seen the stock air box not be able to handle the air supply demand using it as a heat shield. I have seen the stock box fail on other M90 applications. Literally suck the box in and make the clips unsnap. The flow numbers for that setup were over 500cfm and from the information above these heads don't require that much CFM on any application I have seen.

Not saying there are not applications that wouldn't benefit, but just haven't seen one that truly requires it.

If you want to cut up your stock airbox for the inlet hole that can be done as well and still provide a heat shield if done properly.
Click to expand...

That's funny, ZZP did a cfm test with a 5in long piece of pvc 4in diameter with a K&N and was around 300 cfm. I highly doubt the stock are box even if gutted would flow 500 cfm, just don't see it happening. The hole in my 98 gtp's airbox is about 1in wide by 2in tall. Unless I'm just not understanding what you're saying.

My 1998's airbox assembley goes to the fenderwell and already has a stock trim piece that looks like the roof flashing these guys are buying to seal their FWI off from the heat. I'll have to get a picture, all I have to do is pull the stock airbox out. Make the hole in the trim piece a 4 inch diameter and run pvc, no need for me to buy roof flashing.
 
My car is on 2 miles of gravel road, so a K&N filter open cone is out of the question. The stock box it is. Clean the filter once a week to twice a week. 251K on the motor and doesn't burn too much oil yet. LOL
 
GreyGhost said:
My car is on 2 miles of gravel road, so a K&N filter open cone is out of the question. The stock box it is. Clean the filter once a week to twice a week. 251K on the motor and doesn't burn too much oil yet. LOL
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Well I just bought my gtp 3 months ago and it's encouraging to know these cars are good for that type of mileage! I've only got 82,000 miles so my $3000 investment in a gtp should be well worth it.
 


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