if anyone needs intake ideas...
- Thread starter DaytonaGTP
- Start date
cleangtp
Banned
All professionals here but nobody has that information:th_laugh-lol3:
All anyone has is intake air temp, which obviously isn't even key for most gtp owners. I'd think you could have a 4in diameter 10in long pipe mandrel bent at 22.5 degrees fabricated by any exhaust shop. Give it a couple good coats of hi temp heat reducer and go open cone. The time to figure it all out or the money it takes isn't worth it.
Only reason I was concerned is because of still got the stock air box assembley in my 98gtp and I want it to go by by.:th_thumbsup-wink:
GreyGhost
New member
LOL, I have a 4 inch K&N cone filter, but want to get a panel K&N filter first. I am NA though.
nickwright02508
New member
i was wondering why i was getting sand in my intake...then i figured out whos vagina its coming out of....****. lol
Poil336
New member
you would trigger my OCD and make me want to figure that out.
SilvaMan61
GPFs Sexy Ginger.
Peaceful till you start blabbing about how much of a tool you are. :th_jester:
But for real dude, these engines have no top end so solve the powerband issues, then worry about the intake.
Its like trying to find the best bread for a sandwich when you have nothing to go inside it....
Bio248
DUI BABY
matt, stop drinking and typing.
in all seriousness though, matt does have a point. the intake is not the restrictive part once you change out the TUBING that goes to the air box. if you replace the tubing with a nice swooping bend and still use the stock air box with a drop in filter then you're miles ahead of the crappy bendy tubing they use from the factory.
once you decide that you want to ditch the air box, a short ram or open cone is the best you'll get. depending upon your level of power, an open cone becomes more and more apparent that it will work better since it just allows whatever the motor wants to eat up. cooler air becomes negated at some point. it's all a game of DIMINISHING GAINS.
in all seriousness though, matt does have a point. the intake is not the restrictive part once you change out the TUBING that goes to the air box. if you replace the tubing with a nice swooping bend and still use the stock air box with a drop in filter then you're miles ahead of the crappy bendy tubing they use from the factory.
once you decide that you want to ditch the air box, a short ram or open cone is the best you'll get. depending upon your level of power, an open cone becomes more and more apparent that it will work better since it just allows whatever the motor wants to eat up. cooler air becomes negated at some point. it's all a game of DIMINISHING GAINS.
blowfishRus6
New member
cold, flowing intake.
gut the stock air box, but a big open cone filter in it. use a new hose going from the box to the throttle body that does not have the ridges in it disrupt air flow.
and keep the tb screen it, it helps alot.
on a side note, with increased flow, you get increased boost. even my wizair would heat soak after time, once your moving, the HAI as you call it sees ambient temps also.
gut the stock air box, but a big open cone filter in it. use a new hose going from the box to the throttle body that does not have the ridges in it disrupt air flow.
and keep the tb screen it, it helps alot.
on a side note, with increased flow, you get increased boost. even my wizair would heat soak after time, once your moving, the HAI as you call it sees ambient temps also.
blowfishRus6
New member
22.5 will go strait to the fender hole
blowfishRus6
New member
if you could find some flexible hosing you would be in business.
i dont know what the angle is from the box to the tb.
i dont know what the angle is from the box to the tb.
GreyGhost
New member
Thank you very much for digging that info up. :th_thumbsup-wink: