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Guess why my car produces 0 boost. Taking bets.

hopefully that times is consumed by you taking pics of all 6 cylinders @ 180psi then send me your paypal......
i got 20 bucks for you if all 6 say 180psi....

ready to face reality yet? let us know what happens when you pull the heads......
 


Not trying to insult you, but would you mind telling us the steps you're taking to run your compression test? 180 is high, and all of them 180 is odd as well, I'd expect at least a 5% variance from highest to lowest. Is the guage possibly out of calibration or something? Especially considering the previous owner of this car was obviously a dumbass, running way too small of a pulley for who knows how long, I doubt he took very good care of it.

If you already listed the procedure you used for the test, I apologize, I'll look back through and try to find it.
 


matt5112 said:
Six pages. You guys rock.
Click to expand...

we can make it 20 pages


44269745-994a-49d9-a96e-c18c56caeab5.jpg



im just razzing you lol
 
Look guys I said it was within a few ticks of 180, I said 180 at first, and that is the closest number on my compression gauge. 150 and 180 are about 20* apart and all I was looking for was a cylinder to be way off. When I look at the gauge now it was probably closer to 170 as that is 2 ticks back. If your gauge can read in increments of 1 that's great mine would be a guess within 2-3 psi. Who knows if the previous owner swapped in a L36. I haven't checked block numbers or anything else other than noticed that the engine is very clean (except the top looks like it's been driven down a dirt road).

The major problem with the car and the reason I bought the car so cheap was the rack was leaking because the trans filler tube broke from it's mount and rubbed a hole in one of the lines. I will recheck the compression this weekend, probably Sunday. It's June and graduations are going on and birthdays the 4,5,6, and 11th so its a little busy around my house.



99GT2dr said:
Not trying to insult you, but would you mind telling us the steps you're taking to run your compression test? 180 is high, and all of them 180 is odd as well, I'd expect at least a 5% variance from highest to lowest. Is the guage possibly out of calibration or something? Especially considering the previous owner of this car was obviously a dumbass, running way too small of a pulley for who knows how long, I doubt he took very good care of it.

If you already listed the procedure you used for the test, I apologize, I'll look back through and try to find it.
Click to expand...

The way I checked the compression was to remove the SC (that was the main reason for working on the car), Plugged all the harnesses back in (fuel injectors, main harness that runs on the front side of the supercharger, the EGR and throttle body, connected the battery. I may have left something out). I removed all of the plugs started on cylinder 2 and connected the compression gauge. Hit the starter, which it's like an auto start and turns over until the car starts or times out which ever is first and did that twice. I looked at the gauge, released the pressure disconnected it and moved to cyl 4 same process then 6 then 1, 3 and 5. I just noted that the gauge didn't move that much and since it's it's 5 psi per tick mark it could have been 165-175. I didn't write anything down since I was looking for something to be drastically wrong. I was more concerned with the gasket.



I will make a single post that covers all of the problems I have had with this car in the members section and will ask that the Mods close this post.

Jeff
 
165 or 180 is a HUGE difference and would eliminate the low vs high compression internals.... would love to have a exact number to know wtf this previous owner did
 
I agree it is a huge difference, and it's my fault for being hard headed and not looking at the gauge more closely when something was said. I found a bunch of papers from the old owners with address and some phone numbers. I am tempted to call and ask if they wouldn't mind telling me a little history on the car. I found a receipt for when the car was bought and it wasn't but a couple of years, There is a Kelly listed as the previous owner but I don't know if that may be a parent or the actual driver of the car. If the car was a repo, I doubt they would want to talk about it. I guess it can't hurt, but I don't want to be a creeper...well any more than usual.

Jeff
 


ding ding ding didnt we already go through the whole sticking to one thread and updating it as you go along somewhere in this mess of a thread 6 pages deep?

lol tool...

instead of updating this one you continue to link threads all over the place you guy need to learn to forum better..... haha
 
You should put your money where your mouth is and be a man like I said. I have a real job and travel a lot and have kids and things I have to do. I am not footloose and fancy free and have the time to just run out at your whim and pull heads. Besides I wouldn't trust you to change the oil in my worst enemies car.


And besides I didn't really want to rub it in your face, but since you are who you are I decided I would post in the rant forum since I had a different problem and when a reputable member asked I posted the pics and video.

Jeff
 


Ok.. Laying down some law here. If you do not post constructively and in a respectful manner, I'm deleting it. Tyler - you are done, don't bother posting. If you do, I'll ban you.

Now that we all understand each other, let's solve the problem.

Jeff - I'd like you to run through some things, realizing you have likely run through them in the past. Let's call this a double check because I didn't necessarily see the answers.

Pictures: We need some
1. Pics of the BCA/BCS area and the vacuum line connections for both. (BCA is boost control actuator, it is the can looking item with a rod attached to the butterfly waste control of the SC, BCS is the soleniod that controls the BCA by bleeding it's vacuum)
2. Pic of the vacuum tree/manfold (plastic on top of charger), just to double check
3. Vid of you sitting in car with the boost gauge if you blip the throttle. If working properly, I'd expect to see a near replica of this video I am posting


4. Overall motor shots: If any wires are exposed, if any wiring looks to have been moved/tampered etc take close ups of that stuff and get the info of where it goes etc.

Next up: Confirmation
5. Do you still have any KR at idle, driving, WOT?
6. Which plugs are currently in the motor?
7. Do you have any engine comes that are pending, come up and set the light or appear with any regularity?
8. Do you have a tuner?
9. Did you replace the knock sensors, find bare wires to them or anything else out of the ordinary?
10. Remove the piece of vacuum line from the BCS to the BCA, go for a drive and tell us what your boost and kr were.

More to come once you'd had time to do all the stuff I've suggested. Let's keep your answers brief, most of the questions will be a yes/no or one sentence answer.

:th_king-normal:
This problem is going to be solved.

To clear up something that bugged me and for folks reading this thread in the future. A proper compression test on these engines will give you a ~180 psi. If you don't block the throttle and barely crank it a second, you'll get ~150 psi. If you have questions on what is correct, read the FSM.
 
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Excellent! I will do here in a few when I am at lunch.

Thanks Bill.

Jeff

Here is the hardline connection to the soft line to the BCS to BCA



Vacuum tree to BPA



Under the snout: FYI I connected a vacuum pump to the T where it would connect to the manifold and it held 25"



Map sensor and the boost gauge.



BCA to tree.




The video shows it is there but said it isn't compatible (Iphone) but I will try to link it from the PC... not working it's a 20 second video of the BCA working. when I rev the gauge it just ges to 0 and stops until I hit the rev limiter at 4K in park.

4 will have shortly

5. No KR at idle 2-3 when the convertor opens and a couple here and there when driving around, but I deleted the KR recently as it removes timing, IAT, Coolant and a bunch of other gauges when I load the GM parameters.

6. I originally installed the factory plug and besides my better judgment I installed 106's gapped to .050"

7. No pending codes now and everything is clear except the SRS light that has been on the car since I bought it.

8. In a few weeks I am going to get HPT tuner to scan from a friend, but for now all I have is an Android phone, BAFX and Torque Pro app.

9. Yes replaced both with Delco sensors no frayed wiring all looked good. The wireloom is starting to fall apart. in places, but nothing rubbed that I have found.

10. after lunch

Thank you,

Jeff
 
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