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Guess why my car produces 0 boost. Taking bets.

Based on the pictures

Please swap out whatever that is under the snout (looks kinda like a check valve to me) I have typically used a 1/4" to 1/8" and 1/8" T from dorman. However if you measure the fitting on the map sensor, I'd do the 1/4 to 1/8 for the SC BCS, then whatever size the map is. Then instead of using the hard lines.. skip that nonsense and use rubber the whole way. I have never seen an issue doing that. My concern here is the item that looks like a check valve that you pulled out of your spare parts bin (I know..cause I'd do the same).

Being an 04-08, your car has two map sensors. Both should be strapped down to the bracket below the sensors. Here's a problem that occurs for some. They hook the vacuum line to the baro sensor. One is a baro sensor and the other is vacuum/boost. I would want to ensure you have them properly connected.
 


advance sells these vac t's. best i could find local. buy 4 foot of new line, and 2 t's one for under the snout, the other would work for your boost gauge. replace that loop bbv to the map.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...=&selectedPartNumber=&qty=1&ship2HomeClicked=


same t's on my car.

limjob11.jpg
 
I will do that Bill, but it's actually a filter as I can pull vacuum and allow pressure back into it. The MAP and BARO are correct as it shows the correct values in the app. I disconnected the MAP from where it was mounted to take a picture for Scotty yesterday, so he could see what the setup looked like. I have some of those Tee's at the house, so I will do that when I get home.

EDIT: The baro is open to atmosphere, they are the same sensor and have been switched out before for new ones. (OEM)

I am having problems uploading videos to photobucket. They are about 20 seconds long. It says they are not available format and some stupid kitten picture.

Both runs I didnt' get KR until the top of 1st and peak was 4.8. This is both stock and with the BPS line disconnected and plugged.

Did a video as is:




Then a video of the solenoid vacuum line disconnected and sealed:



Thanks

Jeff
 
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It shows in/Hg and psi, just like my gauge (Bosch Mechanical). The highest I have seen in a while was 1.5# boost, most of the time it is .2-.3 psi.

Jeff
 
BillBoost37 said:
Ok.. Laying down some law here. If you do not post constructively and in a respectful manner, I'm deleting it. Tyler - you are done, don't bother posting. If you do, I'll ban you.

Now that we all understand each other, let's solve the problem.

Jeff - I'd like you to run through some things, realizing you have likely run through them in the past. Let's call this a double check because I didn't necessarily see the answers.

Pictures: We need some
1. Pics of the BCA/BCS area and the vacuum line connections for both. (BCA is boost control actuator, it is the can looking item with a rod attached to the butterfly waste control of the SC, BCS is the soleniod that controls the BCA by bleeding it's vacuum)
2. Pic of the vacuum tree/manfold (plastic on top of charger), just to double check
3. Vid of you sitting in car with the boost gauge if you blip the throttle. If working properly, I'd expect to see a near replica of this video I am posting


4. Overall motor shots: If any wires are exposed, if any wiring looks to have been moved/tampered etc take close ups of that stuff and get the info of where it goes etc.

Next up: Confirmation
5. Do you still have any KR at idle, driving, WOT?
6. Which plugs are currently in the motor?
7. Do you have any engine comes that are pending, come up and set the light or appear with any regularity?
8. Do you have a tuner?
9. Did you replace the knock sensors, find bare wires to them or anything else out of the ordinary?
10. Remove the piece of vacuum line from the BCS to the BCA, go for a drive and tell us what your boost and kr were.

More to come once you'd had time to do all the stuff I've suggested. Let's keep your answers brief, most of the questions will be a yes/no or one sentence answer.

:th_king-normal:
This problem is going to be solved.

To clear up something that bugged me and for folks reading this thread in the future. A proper compression test on these engines will give you a ~180 psi. If you don't block the throttle and barely crank it a second, you'll get ~150 psi. If you have questions on what is correct, read the FSM.
Click to expand...
Amazing response. Bill for President in 2016

Sent from my LG G3
 


Ok so I just read the entire thread and I will admit it was quite comical.

I do have one question though. Is the gauge on your compression kit accurate? I mean are you for sure it's calibrated properly?

Sent from my LG G3
 
It is accurate to 165 psi which is the best of my abaliity to test calibration. I have used a regulator (we use a lot of them at work) to set for 20,40,60,80,120 and on another smaller compressor we have this is 165 max and it follows all of those points so I would assume that it is still accurate to 200 psi but I am not able to go over 165. As a previous instrumentation technician and current service manager of a scale company who deals with NIST procedures in calibration I am more than fairly sure the gauge is accurate. This was brought into question earlier so I figured I would go ahead and verify it.

Since I use a 1 gallon brad nailer Teed into a 6 gallon tank to fill my 5 gallon tank for filling tires and such. And since I use a male to male connector to fill the 5 gallon tank I had the adapter to do it easily. If you would like pics I would provide those as well.

Jeff

edit it gets a lot of work blowing up pool toys...
 
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Jeff,

Noticed a couple of things in the vids and what you said.

1. Please disconnect the BCS line and do no seal it, do not attach anything at all. Just the one step of disconnecting the vacuum line between the BCS and BCA.
2. The first vid shows it extremely well. Before you have any engine rpm/sound, your vacuum disappears. Please get a picture of where you hooked up your boost gauge to the motor. Something feels off with it. (like it's hooked up on top of the SC at the vac manifold.)
3. Let's stop questioning the compression tester. We don't have a compression issue.
4. Are you turning off traction control on these vids or was it on?
 
1. OK will do after I get back from a customers this afternoon.

2. Boost gauge is connected in the above picture to the Vacuum T that connects to the MAP sensor. The black line is the one from the front of the LIM under the snout and the white one is the boost gauge.

3.

4. Doh! yes I forgot to turn off traction control. I also did a slow roll, and got into it. The concrete is that gray slick stuff and spin is easy. So I will redo both of the vids. The traction active did not come on, but I will redo the vids.

One thing I think I have failed to mention is that when I had my rack replaced my steering wheel holds at the 11 O'clock position, it needs an alignment, but Vernon mentioned to me that the outer tie rods needed to be replaced. We had the car on the lift and the castle nut is about 1/16" below (or above depending on your interpretation) the cotter pin. Meaning that the cotter would only keep the nut from moving it it backed out far enough to contact the cotter. I decided to replace the outer tie rods when I get a chance, new tires and alignment. That will be a few weeks.

Thanks,

Jeff
 
Kyle, Please get me a picture of the BCA and the butterfly it controls from Samm's Gen V. Thanks I want to see the position of both.
 


Something about the vacuum pinning in that first vid. Go back and take a look at mine. Essentially the same thing..the vac on mine is .... Whoa.. stop the presses.

Going to edit in a min.

It wasn't what I thought it was, must have confused something with another post.

#4 (original) I'd still like to see overall motor pics.
New #2 Regarding the vacuum. Please plus pressure to the boost gauge and note it to be working. I believe you may have already, but let's get a pic of positive pressure. I have blown into the tube before to see pressure.
 
I can get you a pic of a Gen V as I have another, will do this evening.

Pics of GenV:

Top.




Open via Vacuum.

Closed natural state.



Rev in park like Bill's video above, the BPS was plugged before the valve. Forgot to disconnect it from yesterday:




4. Placeholder: Moved down to pictures below.


Run with bypass disconnected open to atmosphere:




Bypass connected as stock.






Place holder for positive pressure picture. Tonight as well.
 
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I will have to upload the videos from my computer at home this one is not working correctly. Here's pics though. One weird thing I saw with the bypass connected as stock to the valve during thr change from 1-2 gear it spiked to 6 psi. Didn't notice until I looked at the video. Also ignore the blue wire with the white stripe. That's an extra wire. I used it for a microswitch one time and as the signal wire to the fuel pressure gauge in the cabin (it was an oil pressure sensor and gauge but same thing).







 
Thanks for your continued effort. I don't see anything materially out of place on the overall pics.. except that your dogbone mounts are upside down and might collect water on a rainy day. But that isn't going to change anything with performance.

You swapped SC's .. so we can rule out a sticky bca not moving. Clearly vacuum is being removed and .. Personally I think you have tire spin of someone with boost.. but the gauge shouldn't lie. ... So I need to see that vid or pic of it showing boost when pressure is applied.

Literally we can rule out almost everything and ... so far it's defying normal reason. There's a reason though.

Pull the brake booster check valve off and make sure it's working please. I'll take your word for it and don't need a pic of you sucking on it to prove it.. lol

I'm thinking of anywhere positive pressure might go.. and this is a good one so far.
 


Let's test the BCA.. clearly you have two..but let's eliminate it. Pull a vacuum on the line from the three way manifold on the top of the SC. You should see the bca open. Let's make sure that upper vacuum manifold isn't clogged. I've never seen it..but hell...things don't make sense, you quadruple check stuff. also put a vac gauge on that nipple. I wanna see vacuum there.
 
Bill,

The Boost is Back Baby!!!!Well I was doing the positive pressure test and had my wife taking pictures, I disconnected the fitting at the LIM and and applie pressure. One time it went to 5 psi which I had a little over 10 psi in the tank. I released it and it it dropped back to 0, then I tried again and it just barely moved. So since I had it all the way out I went ahead and replaced it with an F shaped Tee...'err replaced it with an F then. When I got the old one out it was leaking but as you had said earlier it's a check valve. But not a very good one. So now I went for a spin and was hitting around 6-7 psi at peak RPM and a constant 5 right off the bat.When I removed it to replace the lines before I checked it I could suck and blow through it, and I would get about 13-14psi when I had the 3.4" on it originally. That damn fitting was the one on the car when I got it. Unfortunately I didn't change it earlier. Go figure.Thank you so much for the help I really appreciate you sticking it out with me.Thanks again.

Jeff

PS when I get in your neck of the woods, I owe you a big steak dinner or take your pick.
 
I know right! I was going to change it the other day but it was raining cats and dogs, and I was like I saw the fitting in the trunk and put it in my pocket and did the videos. The road is slicker than gorilla snot so even our Ford truck usually spins the tires turning on this stuff. I also want to Thank you for your help as well, Scotty.

Thank you,

Jeff
 
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