• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Gonna upgrade my subwoofer setup



Jteske88 said:
nice job, let me know how it goes. just dont like em, felt like there trying to jew me at all points.
Click to expand...

That's the point of a sales job. Luckily I pointed out the pricing is cheaper online and he worked with me. If the box is more than 110 i'll just go to Audio Tech across the street :D
 
Make sure your battery and alternator can handle the extra load. Mine with just two 12's amplified at 400rms, is making my lights dim when they hit hard.
 
Capacitor will not help, after the first hard hit from the sub its depleted then your battery is being relied on for the extra demand of the sub, once your battery is drained your hooped. Best bet is to upgrade the Big 3 wires and a stronger alternator instead of a capacitor.
 
i have about 2k in my car and get maybe a volt drop on my setup, but then againi have big three done in 2/0 gauge wire and run of 2/0 to the back also. only thing he needs to do is upgrade is current power wire and grounds. with the amp he has there wont be an extreme draw
 


tod1d said:
Capacitor will not help, after the first hard hit from the sub its depleted then your battery is being relied on for the extra demand of the sub, once your battery is drained your hooped. Best bet is to upgrade the Big 3 wires and a stronger alternator instead of a capacitor.
Click to expand...

That's what I'm looking to get done. Need to sell a whole bunch of mods first to acquire some capital though.
 
yeah? just remember, smaller the wire the more draw, more draw equals more heat, more heat equals problems for you. And we know your not good with problems lol
 


thanks, hopefully it'll all be just plug n play again. I just gotta make sure I wire the subs up correctly, I blew a voice coil in a p3 last time I tried. I had a horrible diagram of figuring out how to wire it up lol.
 
i have a similar setup. I am running 2 12" Alpine type-x subs. I am using 2 alpine PDX 1.1000 amplifires. I love these amps! they are spendy but worth it.
 
Jteske88 said:
600 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (1,000 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms), 500 watts RMS x 1 at 1 ohm

this dont make scense to me, but if the 2 ohm rating is 1k, it would be a good match for those subs. keeping it safe that is
Click to expand...
I believe that Alpine amps are not 1 ohm stable
 


Check out hifonics amps. I have a 4 channel 800 watt amp for the inside speakers and a 1600 watt mono amp for my two Fosgate P3 12s and I was very satisfied with the amps. Both were hifonics, big bang for your buck.
 
I'll have to check and make sure they are 1ohm stable. I definitely don't want 2 Type X's lol.
Went to check on a box yesterday and the one i liked was $180, screw that. I'm not paying that much for a colored box lol


http://www.amazon.com/Hifonics-Brut...8&qid=1352896334&sr=8-3&keywords=hifonics+amp

just remembered what Jteske88 was saying, wire up each sub to be 1ohm then wire together to make it 2ohm. So wouldnt matter if an amp was 1ohm stable or not. (1,000 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms), is what I need. Sadly the Brutus at 2ohm is 900
 
I have a Type S 12 in my 98 along with a old school punch 40 to run my mids and highs it sounds great not to much bass but you can hear the music and bass from a block or 2 lol
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top