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Going to the track soon, what tire/wheel combo?

Kejross

Kejross

New member
Well I'm finally getting my car tuned and should have it all done next week after my battery and new power inverter arrive for the laptop. So I been thinking about what tire/wheel combo to run... I have 4 options right now which are

1. 18's with 235-50-18 tires that are taller than stock
2. 18's with 245-45-18 tires that are about the same size as stock
3. stock abs wheels with 225-60-16 tires all seasons
4. 17's from a newer pontiac torrent but had them on my wifes grand am before it was totalled a couple months ago so the tires are only 235-45-17


Number 4 is the option I'm leaning towards mainly because the tires are the wrong size for anything I have so I wouldn't mind burning them off the rims and are a decent bit smaller than stock, which correct me if I'm wrong will act as if I had a taller gear ratio due to them being smaller than stock. My main questions are, will they be too small and not let me even try to hook up? Are the sidewalls too short? I weighed the 17 and the stocker and got 46.8lbs on the 17 with tire and 41 for the stocker. Is that 6ish pounds per wheel really gonna hurt me that bad?(I will have stockers aired to the max out back with any combo) I don't think I will use my stockers just because they have great tires that I need for winter but I wouldn't mind picking up a copuple spare rims or even some steelies if I could find them in 16 if that's the far better option. If I do that should I get a smaller than stock tire for that better gear ratio then? And yes the 18's were a joke, I know better than to run those big monsters.
 
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And I do not have a built trans, I have a $102.50 pullapart special that's been rebuilt at least once... And with that being said I really don't care if it blows up cause I can go grab another for the same price. No I don't wanna run slicks and blow it on the first pass but I wouldn't mind chancing it here and there is what I am saying.
 
Choice #3 would be the best one.

Why you may ask.

1) Well for one, factory tire size...speedo would be correct.
2) That is the lightest wheel out of all 4, most likely...thus least amount of rotating mass...and more important, less wear on the transmission
3) Bigger the wheel...and the tire...harder the transmission has to work to turn all that...plus the more rotating mass...the slower you go...which is why people run small, light wheels at the strip.

That's my thoughts on it.
 
bluegtp91 said:
Choice #3 would be the best one.

Why you may ask.

1) Well for one, factory tire size...speedo would be correct.
2) That is the lightest wheel out of all 4, most likely...thus least amount of rotating mass...and more important, less wear on the transmission
3) Bigger the wheel...and the tire...harder the transmission has to work to turn all that...plus the more rotating mass...the slower you go...which is why people run small, light wheels at the strip.

That's my thoughts on it.
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1. I have hpt and can adjust the speedo to read whatever I wish, but that's not a factor cause I'll only be running them at the strip. And I almost plan on breaking something so I'll more than likely be trailering it down too...
2. Is the 12 extra pounds on the drive wheels really gonna do that much? any ideas on time drop? maybe a tenth? or worse?
3. That's probably more of a toss up ain't it since I have smaller and heavier and bigger and lighter?

16's
Sidewall: 5.3
Diameter: 26.6
Circumference: 83.7
Revs/mile: 757

17's
Sidewall: 4.2
Diameter: 25.3
Circumference: 79.6
Revs/mile: 796


Any idea's on a 16 steelie weight with average tire? I have big brakes so I gotta at least have a 16.
 
I would run the 17s on front and 16s on the rear. You want the narrowest tires you can get on the rear..

But with crappy street tires, all 4 choices aren’t going to do much for traction.
 


Ridin ON Chrome said:
I would run the 17s on front and 16s on the rear. You want the narrowest tires you can get on the rear..

But with crappy street tires, all 4 choices aren’t going to do much for traction.
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That's still the setup I am leaning towards... I figure the 16's have the weight advantage but I don't see 12lbs killing me that much and plus the 17's are a smidge wider, and with them being shorter I will get a better gear ratio in effect. Plus I really don't wanna smoke my winter tires...lol You don't think they will grab that well even if I heat the crap out of them with a big smokey burnout? All 4 of them have like new tread and I don't mind burning some of it off since these will only see track use. Should I go super low on the tire pressure? like 15psi maybe?
 
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warming them up with a burnout will most likely result in more wheel spin. It's better to just run them without doing a burnout most of the time.
 


To be frank....

My car on the street, with cold tires, does not hook very well.

Abuse the tires for 40 minutes and its damned surprising what sort hook can be achieved.
 
matt5112 said:
To be frank....

My car on the street, with cold tires, does not hook very well.

Abuse the tires for 40 minutes and its damned surprising what sort hook can be achieved.
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I know, my oversized tire running 18's lay down patches of rubber everywhere I go. My transmission hates me, I know this...
 
dsmuts said:
maybe just a little bit but i've had better luck not doing any burnout at all.
Click to expand...

I've pulled 1.9 60 footers on bald all seasons with flat 5 wheels. I aired down to about 22-25 psi and did a big huge burnout. Doing this with all seasons has netted me better 60 footers than with DR's.

However, I think because the tires were nearly bald, it actually helped my traction after they were heated up really well. My guess is that the flatter surface mated to the prepped track similar to a slick (just with not as soft as a compound)

Call me crazy but bald all seasons are better than DR's in my opinion hands down for this platform. I know a couple guys who have had the same luck. Just be sure that you don't show wires. Wouldn't wanna hit the wall after a blowout.
 
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