• Failure to follow these rules may result in your threads being locked, deleted, or moved. Depending on the severity of your actions, or frequency of your actions, your user account could be suspended or banned. These rules are to help protect both buyer and seller.


    1. CONSOLIDATE all of your for sale items into ONE thread only. This means there will be NO making multiple sales threads for different items regardless if the parts are related or not.

    2. PRICE IS REQUIRED. We do not permit ads without an asking price for each item. "Best Offer" is not an allowable substitute for posting a price. You may ask for $1 but a price must be listed regardless. If a price is not listed with in the first 24 hours of making your sale thread IT WILL BE LOCKED or DELETED. Once a price is listed a bidding war is not permitted. If the seller gets an offer that meets his asking price, the seller should honor the asking price and sell for that amount.

    3. EBAY LINKS AND OTHER LINKS. We allow links to ebay ads, but you MUST have a buy-it-now price posted, or an asking price to stop the auction in your ad here (Not just in the link). If it is from another site or from here, do not use a link but post the full text instead with pictures if you have them listed. If a BIN price is not posted, then your thread will be DELETED.

    4. CITY / STATE are required info for each ad. Information must be posted in the first post of thread, NO EXCEPTIONS. Buyers and sellers reserve the rights to privately ask for full contact information on any purchase or sale. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    5. NO TWO PARTY SALES. This means no more "I'm selling for a friend" posts and will be deleted immediately with no notice. Seller assumes all responsibility of anything they post for sale.

    6. NO FEELER THREADS. You are either selling it or you aren’t selling it.

    7. POST COUNT AND/OR TIME LIMIT. We are requesting that you spend some time with us before you start a For Sale thread. A pre-determined minimum number of posts will be required or 1 year since creating the account + an intro thread (just so we know you aren’t the Prince of Africa). Any for sale thread posted out of the For Sale section to circumvent the rules will result in being deleted. Those who do meet the criteria and post outside the section will have their thread moved, constant violation of this will result in an infraction.

    8. NO BUMPING OR TT’ing YOUR THREAD MORE THAN ONCE IN 48 HOURS. Don’t worry your thread will still be a bold read until a user reads it and if people are really interested they will let you know. Post warning will be issued if in violation and on the 3rd warning, the thread will just be locked.

    9. NO THREAD DUMPING OR I DON’T LIKE YOUR PRICE. Don’t post in a person’s thread just to tell them they are too high, either move along and say nothing or throw an offer to them. The person can sell it at whatever price they think someone is willing to pay. Offenders will be issued a warning, if it is a constant issue then an infraction will be issued.

    10. KEEP YOUR THREAD UP TO DATE. This is really for your benefit, so you don’t get 10 PMs asking if you still have it when you already sold it.

    11. NO WEAPONS. As Admins we have determined that no weapons will be allowed to be sold, this includes knives, guns and anything else deemed a weapon (even if its a wall hanger only). We ask that if you want to sell these items you seek out the appropriate websites elsewhere to do so.

    12. Pictures are REQUIRED. Pictures of all items for sale. This is to help BOTH seller and buyer. As a seller it is MUCH easier to sell something if you have pictures of it. As a buyer you feel better seeing exactly what you are buying. Pictures should contain the item/s for sale and a sign of some kind that has your username on it. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    FRAUD & RISK. Buy and Sell at your own risk. Grand Prix Forums and its staff are not responsible if someone rips you off or doesn't send parts out in a timely manner. This classifieds section is a free service for the community, and it is YOUR responsibility to handle all transactions in a low-risk method. DO NOT contact us if there is a dispute between you and someone else, we are NOT INVOLVED. You can help minimize fraud risk by doing these suggestions:

    Pay using PAYPAL, using a credit card. This way, if a part does not arrive, you can do a charge back through your credit card company. If you gift it, then you have no recourse to get your money back when things fall through. Pay the 3% and have the buyer protection. Using someone else's paypal and gifting to pay for goods is violating Paypal's Terms of Service.



    Always ask for full name, residential address, phone numbers of both buyers and sellers. An honest seller should have no problem disclosing this info to you privately.


    Shipping things C.O.D. is risky. Try to use UPS or Fedex, so that you can track shipments. Have someone sign for it if it is expensive.


    Ask for references from other members, hopefully from other members who have been registered for longer than one year and are active here.


    Use your gut feeling. If something seems too good to be true, or a seller/buyer seems a little shady, don't take the risk.

    TIPS:
    -Post pictures: with mobile phones these days and auto uploads, it’s not even really hard anymore. Have it automatically drop in Photobucket, grab the Img tag link and paste it in.

    -Give good contact information if you aren’t going to be on here a lot.

    -If you are going to disappear for an extended time (vacation, time in jail, what have you), then give us a quick note that you aren’t going to be around. People will trust you a little more.

    -Look around and gauge your price with other items. Just cause you bought it for $1000, doesn’t mean it’s now worth $1,200 or even the original $1,000. You are free to ask what ever you want, but an item that is priced right will sell quicker.
  • The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Fbody brake setup wanted!

I think why they still work is because the center hole on the rotor that goes around the wheel bearing is the same and thats what centers the rotor. The lug nut holes are always bigger then they need to be on rotors so it still goes on with no issues.

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Should I go with a dorman rebuild kit or a no name brand dorman a little more expensive but they usually make good stuff.

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Because the cheapest I could find corvette calipers for was 160 and I just picked up some fbody calipers with brand new rotors for 50$ also I heard there might be clearance issues with the corvette calipers on my stock 16 torque stars

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Search for this on rock auto, $255 with a $30 core and you have everything you need with powdercoated calipers

POWER STOP KC1437
 
I dunno dude. My one post could have had it all done plus the part number for the sleeves. But ya you don't have that parts store by you

i been rocking fbodies for years. 2 sets of rotors pads and second set of calipers. The first set was bought used and something wonky was going on with them. Biting the rotor unevenly. Thread with pics solehwere years back

second set was new and no issues

The corvette caliper aren't the same. The pedal feel is different , closer to stock. Get the info from people who own the parts.
I drove impala calipers. Touchy as fck but dig into them I personally felt fading. Could have been the pads / rotors but it did make the regal have that new-car-jerky-brake feeling
The fbodies are a bit softer but once you press enough they yank ya to a stop
The vette calipers were my favorite. They felt IMHO the best of both worlds.
Again this is MY review of 3 different cars with 3 different types of rotors and pads. So variables aren't consistent


you wouldn't happen to know a Jared by change would you? I think I'm having deja vu lmao
 
Well the way I'm buying everything I'll have rebuilt calipers, the bushings, new pads, new rotors, and ss lines for 225 rather then your way would have cost me more just because how much there core charge was and I got calipers locally for 40$

Besides the subway guy I dont know a Jared lol

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Ok so zzp has the ss lines on sale for 100$ is it worth paying the extra 40 for the three other ss lines? I could care less about reliability id only want to spend the extra money if it made the breaks actually better.

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I've had the fbody setup for a long time on both my gp and the impala. I have ss lines on both and the gxp pedal on the gp and an 06+ impala ss pedal on my impala. They have dead pedal and then grip hard but I'm not a fan of that. I have an 06 impala master cylinder to go in to see if that helps, next I'm going to try the impala 06+ calipers of the MC doesn't help.
 
seems common to have a inch or so of soft pedal even with the stock regal pedal, they feel like stock till you put your foot into them, at this point with r1's you want a capped soda bottle not a open can, cause its gonna fly. ive cleared my seats many times in them holly crap moments.
 


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