• Failure to follow these rules may result in your threads being locked, deleted, or moved. Depending on the severity of your actions, or frequency of your actions, your user account could be suspended or banned. These rules are to help protect both buyer and seller.


    1. CONSOLIDATE all of your for sale items into ONE thread only. This means there will be NO making multiple sales threads for different items regardless if the parts are related or not.

    2. PRICE IS REQUIRED. We do not permit ads without an asking price for each item. "Best Offer" is not an allowable substitute for posting a price. You may ask for $1 but a price must be listed regardless. If a price is not listed with in the first 24 hours of making your sale thread IT WILL BE LOCKED or DELETED. Once a price is listed a bidding war is not permitted. If the seller gets an offer that meets his asking price, the seller should honor the asking price and sell for that amount.

    3. EBAY LINKS AND OTHER LINKS. We allow links to ebay ads, but you MUST have a buy-it-now price posted, or an asking price to stop the auction in your ad here (Not just in the link). If it is from another site or from here, do not use a link but post the full text instead with pictures if you have them listed. If a BIN price is not posted, then your thread will be DELETED.

    4. CITY / STATE are required info for each ad. Information must be posted in the first post of thread, NO EXCEPTIONS. Buyers and sellers reserve the rights to privately ask for full contact information on any purchase or sale. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    5. NO TWO PARTY SALES. This means no more "I'm selling for a friend" posts and will be deleted immediately with no notice. Seller assumes all responsibility of anything they post for sale.

    6. NO FEELER THREADS. You are either selling it or you aren’t selling it.

    7. POST COUNT AND/OR TIME LIMIT. We are requesting that you spend some time with us before you start a For Sale thread. A pre-determined minimum number of posts will be required or 1 year since creating the account + an intro thread (just so we know you aren’t the Prince of Africa). Any for sale thread posted out of the For Sale section to circumvent the rules will result in being deleted. Those who do meet the criteria and post outside the section will have their thread moved, constant violation of this will result in an infraction.

    8. NO BUMPING OR TT’ing YOUR THREAD MORE THAN ONCE IN 48 HOURS. Don’t worry your thread will still be a bold read until a user reads it and if people are really interested they will let you know. Post warning will be issued if in violation and on the 3rd warning, the thread will just be locked.

    9. NO THREAD DUMPING OR I DON’T LIKE YOUR PRICE. Don’t post in a person’s thread just to tell them they are too high, either move along and say nothing or throw an offer to them. The person can sell it at whatever price they think someone is willing to pay. Offenders will be issued a warning, if it is a constant issue then an infraction will be issued.

    10. KEEP YOUR THREAD UP TO DATE. This is really for your benefit, so you don’t get 10 PMs asking if you still have it when you already sold it.

    11. NO WEAPONS. As Admins we have determined that no weapons will be allowed to be sold, this includes knives, guns and anything else deemed a weapon (even if its a wall hanger only). We ask that if you want to sell these items you seek out the appropriate websites elsewhere to do so.

    12. Pictures are REQUIRED. Pictures of all items for sale. This is to help BOTH seller and buyer. As a seller it is MUCH easier to sell something if you have pictures of it. As a buyer you feel better seeing exactly what you are buying. Pictures should contain the item/s for sale and a sign of some kind that has your username on it. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    FRAUD & RISK. Buy and Sell at your own risk. Grand Prix Forums and its staff are not responsible if someone rips you off or doesn't send parts out in a timely manner. This classifieds section is a free service for the community, and it is YOUR responsibility to handle all transactions in a low-risk method. DO NOT contact us if there is a dispute between you and someone else, we are NOT INVOLVED. You can help minimize fraud risk by doing these suggestions:

    Pay using PAYPAL, using a credit card. This way, if a part does not arrive, you can do a charge back through your credit card company. If you gift it, then you have no recourse to get your money back when things fall through. Pay the 3% and have the buyer protection. Using someone else's paypal and gifting to pay for goods is violating Paypal's Terms of Service.



    Always ask for full name, residential address, phone numbers of both buyers and sellers. An honest seller should have no problem disclosing this info to you privately.


    Shipping things C.O.D. is risky. Try to use UPS or Fedex, so that you can track shipments. Have someone sign for it if it is expensive.


    Ask for references from other members, hopefully from other members who have been registered for longer than one year and are active here.


    Use your gut feeling. If something seems too good to be true, or a seller/buyer seems a little shady, don't take the risk.

    TIPS:
    -Post pictures: with mobile phones these days and auto uploads, it’s not even really hard anymore. Have it automatically drop in Photobucket, grab the Img tag link and paste it in.

    -Give good contact information if you aren’t going to be on here a lot.

    -If you are going to disappear for an extended time (vacation, time in jail, what have you), then give us a quick note that you aren’t going to be around. People will trust you a little more.

    -Look around and gauge your price with other items. Just cause you bought it for $1000, doesn’t mean it’s now worth $1,200 or even the original $1,000. You are free to ask what ever you want, but an item that is priced right will sell quicker.
  • The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Fbody brake setup wanted!

i had the f bodys before i got the e line from r1. they were a upgrade in them selves, ive ran 100 dollar pads up front that sucked a dick next to this r1 set up i got now.

i also have no working abs, ive only locked them up a few short times in them holy crap situations. best brakes ive ever owned, on a new car or what have you.

i got the matching rears for the stock crap. so i have the same matching rotors and pads all around. best 200 bucks spent eva!. oh and the kicker is when you need new pads they are only 30 bucks.
 


I have the part numbers for the sleeves if you want them

also the part numbers for the hawk pads to source them for cheap
 
going from stock brakes to the F body brakes is a big difference. it is almost criminal how pathetic the brakes are from the factory.
 
Do I need the sleeves

Also I was thinking about getting some hawk hps pads.

Scotty im assuming you feel your r1 setup is better then some hawks?

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never had hawks. ive had a few different sets of f body pads so far, most burnt up fast and dusted up a lot.

ive owned new cars, these brakes are better then any thing ive ever owned. hell billboost likes em so much he put them on his new audi. he had them on the regal for years. he did a lot of hwy driving and they lasted over 50,000 miles.
 
Well looks like I'm getting some r1s plus there only 20 dollars more then the hawks and I get rotors haha. Win win

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Well looks like I'm getting some r1s plus there only 20 dollars more then the hawks and I get rotors haha. Win win

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exactly. i was going to do hawks, then it came to light i could have rotors and pads for about the same cost. then i went for the backs too. if you add the rears you get 10% off iirc. at least i did. just add both sets to your cart for the discount.

ive never been one to do the break in deal, but with these you should. they feel like they are grinding on the first drive to bed them in. then smooth out. once cooled off from bedding they feel great, then only feel better and better over the next 500 miles. seems like each heat cycle makes them better. they include clear directions for bedding them in.
 
its 3 or 4 firm stops from different speeds, with out ever coming to a complete stop. if you need to stop, it tells you to not hold the brakes, toss it in park or neutral.

like i said, they come with directions.
 
Well now I'm torn on wether or not I should buy everything now or see if there's any better sales for black Friday. Right now I have a total of 305$ for everything minus brake fluid and whatever paint I might want to use

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I need to buy a new radiator too and not eBay brand. That thing lasted 6 months and now it's leaking in two different places

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Ya I'm topswapped though and still have the stock gt radiator can I upgrade to the stock gtp radiator I believe 1" without any modifications?

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Well I'm in Arizona and last summer i was running around 200* with a 180tstat and 180 tune so I would like to get to get a bigger radiator especially if it's a bolt on. If someone could please confirm that

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sc cars get the 1 inch rad, na cars get the 5/8 th rad, i had a 1 inch and now have a 5/8 rad and theres zero difference in engine temps.

theres the zzp iirc al rad. but thats money and likely not worth it.
 
Rockauto Calipers are powder coated, not painted, not a bad deal! The R1's are great rotors, same as Centrix supposedly. The E-Line are good but I went for the Premiums as the E-Line Hats rusted first time I had em'. Or just don't do like me, paint them (hat) first rather than watch em rust up while in the car ; ) as for pads? Any premium ceramic's will do, I've used the PowerStop pads and they're fine. Goodridge SS Brake Lines are the way to go (#12279), and I still bent the bracket out, no biggie!
 
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