• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Dog bone flip?



thats kinda what i thought...i jus changed the tranny fluid about a month ago and its only done it that one time...now im having second thoughts weather 2 race it on the 27th....
 


thats kinda what i thought...i jus changed the tranny fluid about a month ago and its only done it that one time...now im having second thoughts weather 2 race it on the 27th....

Toss a bottle of Lucas Transmission additive in there, drive the car "respectfully" and start saving for a rebuild or replacement.
 
there is 122,000 on it...ill have to check to see how much fluid is in it...after i drained it all out and put a new filter on it it seemed alot better. broke traction at 50mph on semi wet pavement...ill prob buy a bottle of that and see how it works
 
somewhat on topic... i put in wbs mounts that i got for free. theres not much vibration but i hear a lot of what i think is valve train noise. like rotating noise, could be the flex plate or something as it seems like its coming from the driver's side. can only hear it in the car though, not when im under the hood, so i dont think anythings wrong. just wondering if people noticed this as well, and how wbs mounts compare to others on the market. thanks.
 
I flipped the mounts of my 98 gp gt today exactly as Abrasive's post. But i felt more noticable vibration when idle or waiting for red light, can anybody tell why?




You basically turn this....
stockmount.jpg


Into this....
flippedmount.jpg


I do it just as Scimmia described, by removing the torque strut (dogbone) from in between the part pictured above and the engine brackets just to get it completely out of the way. Then with the bracket still attached to the car, put the bolt back through the bushing and tighten down the nut completely. Then I take a flat screwdriver and pry the rubber bushing back just enough to spray some lubricant in behind it all the way around. A little WD-40 works good. Then I put a 15mm wrench on the bolt head and another on the nut that I just put back through the rubber bushing and begin pushing the two wrenches towards the engine. Turn them slowly to make sure you are not tearing the bushing and sometimes you have to work them back and forth a little bit to get the entire bushing to "flip" 90 degrees. Once finished, the bushing is now solid on the front and back which is where the engine puts the most force against them as it tries to move back and forth. Then just take the nut off and remove the bolt, reinstall your dogbones, and you're done.
 
Because the motor is moving less and the vibrations that "gave" with the stock mount placements are now absorbed by the flipped placement mounts...please don't get poly mounts if your complaining about the vibrations there.
 


Because the motor is moving less and the vibrations that "gave" with the stock mount placements are now absorbed by the flipped placement mounts...please don't get poly mounts if your complaining about the vibrations there.

and to think i LIKED the vibration with all poly uppers, solid lowers, and no balance shaft.
 


I noticed, when idle, the motor moving less back and forth, but moving a little bit more up and down. The vibrations is more noticable when idle, even the upper coolant hose shakes a bit now. However, i can feel better result after flipping during driving.
 
those poly mounts must be a b!tch to get in lol... but i do like the stiifer feel since i flipped hmmm maybe ill get some

NO Scott focus on headers HEADERS
(interior dialouge)
 
Back
Top