• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Coolant Issues



I haven't had time to get back to the car since I cleaned up the gasket surfaces and torqued down the LIM, hopefully I'll get back to it tonight. I was reading into ways to clean the coolant system, like here: http://www.grandprixforums.net/dexcool-plugged-heater-core-what-i-did-remedy-62341.html It seems some people in this thread think that putting DexCool back in is a good move. Why not switch to green, with all the problems DexCool causes? Also, his procedure makes it seem like he's draining/refilling with a hot engine. Seems sketchy, couldn't that potentially cause warpage/cracking issues?

I'd say 3 hours is right if I hadn't been trying to pull the LIM off with the engine mount in :)
 
Last edited:
scottydoggs said:
flushing coolant is easy. take the t stat out, put the housing back on, leave the hose on the t stat housing, now take it off the upper rad, push it down to the ground.

open the rad, put a hose in the rad, turn it on, then fire up the engine, all the coolant will pump out the upper hose to a bucket or the ground, as your filling the rad with fresh water, run it like this for a few minutes, usually till clear water comes out. then take the hose out, turn it off, then run the car till no more coolant comes out the upper hose, then turn the car off.

put a new t stat back in hook up the hose to the rad, then dump 1 gallon of straight antifreeze in the rad, not the 50/50 crap. start the car, fill the rad with the hose.

let the car idle, rad cap open till the fans come on, then open the bleeder screw on the t stat housing till a stream of coolant comes out. then shut it. top off the rad if need be, cap it, your done.

waiting for the fans to come on lets you know the engine is hot enough for the t stat to open, some times you will see the rad level drop as well. that would be the time to bleed the air as well. because it opened and took coolant from the rad to fill the engine with more coolant.
Click to expand...


this post i made on page one, is the best way to flush your coolant, id use only like prestone flush cleaner ( or similar) , no way id put cascade in my engine or any of that other crap.

you can flush it, then full it with water, put the flush stuff in, drive it around, then re flush the engine. add coolant then.
 
if you drive the car with just water, and the rad cap on, yes you'll want it to cool down some before popping the cap, or you can get burnt up pretty good. 200 deg water and steam hurts bad.
 


the rule is: never add cold water to a hot engine when its off. if you must add when its hot, make sure its running. or able to run.

during the flush it will never over heat, because you have a hose full of cold water being fed to the engine, and your only idling the car.
 
Wow, of all things I didn't see this being a problem...

nOO0CRZ.jpg


The throttle connector, I can't get the plastic lock back down. Did the engineers get bored with regular clips and make a rubiks cube connector?
 


I was trying that.. it just will not go on. Something must have broken in it.. Zip ties for now. She fired up and idled smooth for a couple seconds! Not enough time for the flush tonight, probably this weekend. Many thanks guys, you've seriously been a huge help!
 
SbQ1SP8.jpg


I must have mixed things up.. I was trying to use these for the two heater core hose brackets towards the back of the engine but the unturned diameter is too long. Does anyone have any idea what these two bolts actually go to???

Thanks,
Dan
 


10mm. haha, no I kept those together and used the torque sequence, so I would have known if some were missing (same for plenum). I was writing what each bolt set was on my magnet tray with a sharpie, and some overspray from cleaning the throttle body made it all illegible :/
 
I went to the local boneyard today and checked out another Grand Prix. Those are actually for the heater hose clamps in the back, I guess they wanted to give those some float with the unturned diameter.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top