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bad news on my 99gtp

99GPGTP

99GPGTP

New member
II recently built the trans in my gtp, I was coming home from summit racing store in ga from getting the fpr and an fittings I needed to fix my car and keep it from running so rich. While coming home I decided tosee what the car would do from a 80mph role. I went wot and boost peaked at 13 psi at 6200 rpm in 3rd gear. I lifted at 110mph due to traffics ahead of me. Couple miles up the road I got off at my exit. While sitting at traffics light I turned the radio down to talk to my friend and once light changed I started accelerating and heard a knocking, at first thought it was someone else. I lifted off the throttle and it went away. I gave it more throttle and heard the knock again. Car just hit 173k miles. While I had engine out I checked the rod bearings and they looked great with no signs of wear. Retorqued rod and put new oil pan gasket on. I'm hoping that removing that rod cap didn't cause this failure. I will be removing engine this weekend and post results of what I find.
 


id say you killed it when you took the caps off to " check" the bearings. you dont do that to these engines. and the rod bolts are tty. aka one time use.

if you took the mains of too, you for sure killed it with your own hand.
 
Scottydoggs said:
id say you killed it when you took the caps off to " check" the bearings. you dont do that to these engines. and the rod bolts are tty. aka one time use.

if you took the mains of too, you for sure killed it with your own hand.
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This is true. Never take the caps off. That alone will kill the motor in time
 
are main bolts and head bolts one tie use also? any others on the engine one time use or is it just the high torque bolts?
 
head bolts are tty too, one time use. unless you spend more for arp re usable stud kit. same for the main caps and rod studs.

once the mains are taken off the whole block "will " twist, and its over then. unless you take it to a shop to be align honed. then get the crank checked or cut then install "new bearings" and torque em down.
 
thats nuts ive never hear that befor.. there is no process for taking mains off t twisting the block.. mines done then cuz i stripped it down to bear block:th_shakinghead1:
 


wowitsfast said:
thats nuts ive never hear that befor.. there is no process for taking mains off t twisting the block.. mines done then cuz i stripped it down to bear block:th_shakinghead1:
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you take that block to a shop and have it worked over or its a 200 mile engine tops. its not a 350 Chevy block, its a 3800 lol not the same thing.

shop costs are more then a used engine. why 99% of us go used block.
 
wowitsfast said:
so if you guys rebuild a used engine you dont touch the mains or crank? how do you trust that?
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you take it to a shop to be machined. thats the only way to trust it.


if you buy a used engine it is what it is. it either runs or it dont. but its 300 from a junk yard. with a warranty.

the shop time will run more then that.

once again, 99% of people will blow a engine and just drop a used block in there. modded to hell if one wishes. all but pistons of course. cam ic. double roller chains.
 


Scottydoggs said:
you take it to a shop to be machined. thats the only way to trust it.


if you buy a used engine it is what it is. it either runs or it dont. but its 300 from a junk yard. with a warranty.

the shop time will run more then that.

once again, 99% of people will blow a engine and just drop a used block in there. modded to hell if one wishes. all but pistons of course. cam ic. double roller chains.
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this is 99% true. Some people get free blocks if they are cool lol
 


I've reused main bolts and never had it align honed without any problems. Rod bolts I would replace, as they are much smaller.
 
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