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5 Loose electrical connectors in engine bay *PICS*

dbextreme said:
Tint (that you can see through) varies in light, unless you are like mine with 5% all the way around it just looks black.. LOL

He could have pulled the lights off to sale for a little extra $$$ and put the stockers back in. Those rims are not special edition rims, they are just standard ones. I actually have a set under my porch off my 99 GT.

If the car drives great, it maybe good to go for a while!!! Don't count out the motor yet.. :D

Aeroforce!!!

Our Stock pulleys are press on.

See big black 3.8" pulley with no allen head screws holding the pulley on:


Modular pulley system is just a hub that is pressed onto the supercharger shaft. The allen head screws are what holds the pulley on. Pulley swaps are easy, 5 screws and the pulley falls off leaving the hub behind. Here's mine after I pulled the stock pulley off and put my modular system on with 3.4" pulley
Click to expand...

Damn thats a sexy motor and charger. I'll measure the pulley and see how big she is. Does the outside diameter determine the pulley size? or is it the measurment of the diameter where the belt actually sits? As far as being special edition, It was the "air rails" or the rubber strips on the roof, and the hood scoops. That's all I can say for sure unless I could verify by other means or by VIN.
 


I may be wrong, but that looks like a 3.8 pulley on yours, which is stock.
He probly just put a stock size modular on instead of pressing on a stocker.
 
Thanks!!

I have a thread on here with a few question and I have pics on page 2 and video on page 3 if you'd like to see more.

http://www.grandprixforums.net/rebirth-my-99-gpgt-73193.html

Yeah he may have a stocker 3.8 on it I can't tell by looking. I mean it looks a little bit smaller then stock but that maybe because of the look of the modular system. You can measure the outside of the pulley I think. At least it will get you in the ballpark for the correct size.

Also you can narrow it down by the belt size. 665 length will work on a 3.6 - 3.8 660 will work for a 3.2 - 3.5. Here's the writeup Bill did talking about belt sizes.

http://www.grandprixforums.net/engine-pulley-list-belt-size-chart-2486.html
 
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dbextreme said:
Thanks!!

I have a thread on here with a few question and I have pics on page 2 and video on page 3 if you'd like to see more.

http://www.grandprixforums.net/rebirth-my-99-gpgt-73193.html

Yeah he may have a stocker 3.8 on it I can't tell by looking. I mean it looks a little bit smaller then stock but that maybe because of the look of the modular system. You can measure the outside of the pulley I think. At least it will get you in the ballpark for the correct size.

Also you can narrow it down by the belt size. 665 length will work on a 3.6 - 3.8 660 will work for a 3.2 - 3.5. Here's the writeup Bill did talking about belt sizes.

http://www.grandprixforums.net/engine-pulley-list-belt-size-chart-2486.html
Click to expand...

Sorry, been away a few days changing a head on an 02 grand am. After some more research I'm almost positive that the above posted car is mine. I found this video:

T67 GTP 1/4 Mile - YouTube

Right in the beginning, the lady announces he's from Maple Grove MN, when I bought the car, He gave me the tab renewal papers and the address was to maple grove MN, which isn't a very big town and is close to where I bought the car. To me that's pretty conclusive. Now im faced with the fact my car was making 513 WHP. Praying the motor was rebuilt/replaced at some point between 513 whp and being demodded. At the same time i'm kind of happy that the trans was replaced 5 years ago with a harmon trans. I'm planning a compression test and leak down test to 'check' the integrity of the motor.

What are the odd's I have some aftermarket internals like rods, pistons, rockers etc? Can these motors make 513 WHP on stock internals?

Should also note the rear valve cover had an oil filler cap, and I take it thats not stock? so at least the valve cover was swapped at some point. Any input?

Is there still any question on your Drivers Info Center?
Click to expand...

Yes sir, Though I think its fried. I took her out and theres what looks like some melted plastic on the back cover/case, right above a mosfet or a regulator of some sort.

Some symptoms include the 3 buttons on the right flickering on and of very fast, sometimes staying on and sometimes being off completely. The traction control and "low traction" buttons/lights still work, but absolutely nothing from the display. Ive tried swapping the bulbs around behind the display to no avail.

edit- oh and the pulley currently on it is 3.7-3.8 inch. So considering its stock the last owner bought the larger pulley just to return it to stock, like he made an effort to return to stock before selling.
 
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Typicaly a turbo car won't have a charger on top. See if you can find pictures. Likely the blower was gutted etc. At that power level, I'd think there was an issue, car was returned to stockish and sent down the road.
 


Small world!! I'd contact Dave and I'm sure he'd give you all the info, but based on his videos it looks like he's done several cars. I'd be willing to bet he built it to run hard and took care of it. Usually one that puts that much money into their car don't skimp.

Looks like in this video he is running the turbo with the block off plate on the supercharger..

Turbo 3800 Grand Prix GTP Dyno - YouTube
 
Guy I bought it from was named Devin. He said he bought it from his brother in 2009 (dave?), 1 year after the trans was rebuilt. I registered on MNCLUBGP but need to wait for administrator approval. I also messaged him on youtube. Hoping to gather some info.

Would love to begin lightly modding this car. Hearing they can make 600 hp on stock block/pistons/rods is impressive. If my compression and leak down test's look good, I'm planning to order a 3.5 or 3.4 in pulley, Colder t-stat, colder plugs, downpipe, PCM and possibly headers shortly after. Willing to spend roughly $1000 right now. Would love to hear opinions on the best way to spend (around) a grand.

Will update as I gather info.
 
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Well, for a $1,000

1) Headers $240 to your door (give or take $20.. Google Speed Daddy Headers)
2) Scan Gauge (Aeroforce $150 - $200)
3) You have the Modular Pulley System already so it's just getting the pulleys. They range from $20 - 50 a piece. I've seen some given away for the price of shipping... I can't tell what brand system it is, but it appears to have the same bolt setup as the Intense/ZZP. Others can comment on it if they have any idea. If it is you are golden, I see the Intense/ZZP pulleys often.

If you get headers you will not have to get the downpipe. With the sensors removed and no SES light you have a tune already which you may already be running a 180* stat. Where does the temp gauge stay when you drive it? When I ran my 195* my car would stay in the area between quarter way - 210 area. With the 180* I have now, it stays a line or two before quarter way and that's pulling a mountain...

I'd get the headers and scan gauge out of the way and still have more then half your $1,000 left. Once you talk to Dave, he will shed more light on what's actually done to the car and what's going on with the tune already on it. And if he's close you two could meet up, heck he might even tune it for you if you ask nicely.. LOL :D Thing I'm getting at, don't get gunho about swapping stuff just yet until you know what you have!!
 
dbextreme said:
Well, for a $1,000

1) Headers $240 to your door (give or take $20.. Google Speed Daddy Headers)
2) Scan Gauge (Aeroforce $150 - $200)
3) You have the Modular Pulley System already so it's just getting the pulleys. They range from $20 - 50 a piece. I've seen some given away for the price of shipping... I can't tell what brand system it is, but it appears to have the same bolt setup as the Intense/ZZP. Others can comment on it if they have any idea. If it is you are golden, I see the Intense/ZZP pulleys often.

If you get headers you will not have to get the downpipe. With the sensors removed and no SES light you have a tune already which you may already be running a 180* stat. Where does the temp gauge stay when you drive it? When I ran my 195* my car would stay in the area between quarter way - 210 area. With the 180* I have now, it stays a line or two before quarter way and that's pulling a mountain...

I'd get the headers and scan gauge out of the way and still have more then half your $1,000 left. Once you talk to Dave, he will shed more light on what's actually done to the car and what's going on with the tune already on it. And if he's close you two could meet up, heck he might even tune it for you if you ask nicely.. LOL :D Thing I'm getting at, don't get gunho about swapping stuff just yet until you know what you have!!
Click to expand...

Sound advice, Thanks. I take it headers are the biggest KR reducer? After the cheap stuff like t-stat, plugs etc of course.
I checked out the speed daddy's, they look pretty nice and easy to install. Saw in another thread there are very few people with fitment issues, which is nice.

As for t-stat:
208egde.jpg



If my math is right, cruising temp looks right around 185 give or take a few degrees. 50 degrees between 160 and 210 and it sits just over half way between the 2 I figure about 185ish. Does get pretty hot at idle though, Over or at 195. Have one question though. What tells the fans to kick on? The tstat just pops open and closed, how does the car know when it pops opena nd when it should kick on the fans? Just based on gauge temp reading I take it and the ECU/ECM doesnt tell the fans to kick on until 195? Would explain why I get high temp at idle, Then stays low when moving.

Just waiting for a reply from dave. Haven't been approved on the MNCLUBGP forums yet, hopefully will be soon. I'm itching to know what was all done to the car and what was left on (if anything). Sounds like a nice guy. Who knows maybe he'd help me do some of the mods/tuning. If he had a blower on there before I imagine he's pretty technically inclined! Maybe I can snag a few parts off him too.
 
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Looks like you have the stock 195* tstat. That's how mine acted with my 195*. I believe the sensor under the tstat housing screwed into the Lower Intake Manifold is what the PCM reads temp for fan control. I could be wrong, others can chime in if I am and if I am I'm sorry in advance.. LOL But with this said, you can't just drop in a 180* and run with it without having your fans tuned accordingly in the PCM. If you just drop a 180* stat in, you won't get efficient cooling IMO.

I ordered the Speed Daddys, they bolted right up, fit great, great quality, great price, can't go wrong. And now they are a cool bronze rainbow color.. LOL

Principal, your motor is an air pump. As much air as you are introducing into the mix has to be efficiently and quickly removed. Free flowing intake and exhaust is key.
 
dbextreme said:
Looks like you have the stock 195* tstat. That's how mine acted with my 195*. I believe the sensor under the tstat housing screwed into the Lower Intake Manifold is what the PCM reads temp for fan control. I could be wrong, others can chime in if I am and if I am I'm sorry in advance.. LOL But with this said, you can't just drop in a 180* and run with it without having your fans tuned accordingly in the PCM. If you just drop a 180* stat in, you won't get efficient cooling IMO.

I ordered the Speed Daddys, they bolted right up, fit great, great quality, great price, can't go wrong. And now they are a cool bronze rainbow color.. LOL

Principal, your motor is an air pump. As much air as you are introducing into the mix has to be efficiently and quickly removed. Free flowing intake and exhaust is key.
Click to expand...

If only they stayed that brilliant chrome forever lol. $240 is dirt cheap. Payed $430 for my OBX equal length headers on my nissan. If I understand correctly, Headers eliminate the need for the "u" bend delete and also eliminate the cat? Considering ripping out the resonator too and straight piping it. Does removing the resonator drastically change the sound? Still have stock mufflers so I imagine it will still be pretty quiet.


Some more bay shots for those who care

309m2wh.jpg


Pulley mounting hardware.

63rmyv.jpg

Look like an Intense/ZZP setup at all?
 
Re: 5 Loose electrical connectors in engine bay, New info, pics and Questions.

Gathered some more info. Dave hasn't been on CLUBGP or MNCLUBGP since 2010, but after weeding through about a thousand of his posts I found his last name posted a few times which matches his brothers last name on my title, and I have the same plates. Confirming what I suspected.

Heres the turbo set up.
30diemu.jpg

T67
24x12x4" FM
st2 cam
ls6 springs
rollmaster double timing set
L67 block/l26 intake
50mm bov
38mm wastegate
21psi
maxed 63 lb injectors
racetronix pump
bap

-----------------------------------------------

Im a noob, What is a "bap" and "24x12x4'' FM?" Fuel management? Front manifold?

Pretty mean setup. Was making 513whp for around a year from what I gathered, and best run was 11.50. He sold the turbo kit to fund "other projects", likely on his 05 corvette.He had a Harmon trans built for around $4000 in 2008, but removed it during demodding. No idea what he slapped back on there.

Doubt the cam or fuel pump are still in there, But was thinking the ls6 springs and double timing kit might still be in there. Didn't see any posts about engine problems, So i'm guessing its the same enigne. He sold the car to his brother in 2009 and did all the work on it until around 2011.

Few questions but I don't want to make a new thread to ask.

Im not sure what kinda of pulley system I have, What are the odds a zzp pulley bolts up to the existing hub?

Oil is dripping onto my rear exhaust manifold, Im thinking the only place for it to drip from is the VC if im correct? or is there another place oil can find its way onto the headers from? Its burning on the outside of the rear exhaust mani, no smoke from exhaust at all, just rising in the bay.
 
You have this pulley system - Smoothflow Pulleys
The BAP is a boost a pump, voltage booster for the fuel pump, the other is the dimensions of the front mount intercooler.

You never know, he could have swapped in a l67 and hd trans and demodded or sold the other block/parts.
 


You could tell if the springs are still on there, by pulling the valve cover cap. Are the springs you see yellow? All the LS6's I've come across are yellow.
 
FoSHO99 said:
You have this pulley system - Smoothflow Pulleys
The BAP is a boost a pump, voltage booster for the fuel pump, the other is the dimensions of the front mount intercooler.

You never know, he could have swapped in a l67 and hd trans and demodded or sold the other block/parts.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info on pulley system. Checked the springs and they aren't yellow. Can't imagine he'd go to the trouble of removing valve springs, thinking its a different engine. Was planning to order a bunch of stuff last night, and white smoke began to pour out of my exhaust. Think im burning alot of coolant. Made a new thread here:

http://www.grandprixforums.net/heavy-white-smoke-exhaust-need-advice-78475.html#post1053303

Any advice or help is appreciated.
 
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