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280-340 HP build



I would say my build is in that range of hp moreso on the 300 hp side. I put the money forth on having a very solid bottom end and stuff you cant easily do later. Trust me, you dont want to make a mistake and damage the engine by trying to get a lot of "easy horsepower" like dropping pulley sizes.
 
so somebody has to change that write up then cause its gunna mislead people if u guys r right .....right??? lol
 
bayareagtp said:
i thought we come stock with close to 240hp ? making an extra 60hp shouldnt be that hard . you figure 5hp u-bend delete , 10hp 3" downpipe , 5-10hp PLOG . right there is 20-25 hp . plus you add a pcm , colder t-stat , colder plugs , air intake of some kind you can figure at least 30-40hp gains then do a smaller pulley (if KR allows) you can see close to 300hp . right ?????? :th_scratchhead: seems right to me anyways .
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That is kinda ricer math. We've all done it at one time or another but it doesn't just add up that way. Also as some have pointed out 240 stock is misleading its more like 200 ish for stock GTP at the wheels.
 
Gonna need a full bolt on car, an then take a look at this link an pic your poison for the major mods. Cam, IC, Heads combo.

CGP-HP - Cam Chart
Top 5 HP at the wheels cars per Cam. Many with G5 Blowers, IC's An some with heads on top of all that (only major mods listed). An these are the 5 highest recorded cars. So for the most part expect it to take more then whats listed to get those numbers.

An don't forget about anomalies like Vogel an JohnC (just examples) who tinker with everything shaving ounces off of places sometimes, inventing new one off mods ect.
 


Bio248 said:
wow kid, you need to read up on your mods. half that stuff wont add even 1/4 of the advertised horsepower.

to hit 300 hp with these cars you will more than likely be cammed with a fullsize intercooler as preotic said. that said, these cars are the ones most likely to be running in the 12s with a good tune. people run 12s with rockers on a nice free flowing setup, but it just doesnt have the overall powerband a cam would.

for a quick car to have fun driving id do:

header/plog and downpipe (preferences/money), 1.9 modded rockers, a 3.4 pulley, and all the other supporting mods (intake, t-stat, etc.). adding a ported blower and throttle body on top of this only helps to reduce kr. i wouldnt see anyone being able to daily drive a 3.2 pulley on this as it would require low timing and the car will run overall worse.

for a fast car that youre going to drive on the street:

list above, but headers for sure and some sort of intercooler. short stack youd be able to run around a 3.2, fullsize youll be able to run anywhere from a 3.2 down to a 2.8 depending upon tune.

for a balls out fast car:

instead of rockers you need a cam. upon this would come into the area of heads as well, expensive as fawk.


so really..make up your mind on what you want your car to do and how you want to drive it before you ask what you can put on your car. also, with all these parts, installing them may be a problem if youre not mechanically inclined. in this case, dont mod your car any more than bolt ons and dont ever drop a pulley.
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when i got my car bone stock i did DP (downpipe) and u-bend delete and i felt a difference . you dont feel a difference in a car with a 1-3 horse power gain you may feel throttle response but it will not feel any faster . i felt more power to the car maybe not what they advertised but i felt a difference . the biggest difference was when i installed my pcm that is when everything started lining up and working together . just like you said you may not get advertised hp from the product right away but i think you will if your car is tuned right !
 
Sabrewings said:
Also, remember that we should really only be talking about wheel HP (WHP) and not crank HP. GM advertises 240HP, but that's at the crank. That will be around 192WHP (~20% drive train loss). To make 300WHP you'd need 375 crank HP.
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everything i was talking about is crank horsepower . for whp yea you would need to get into the engine and not just bolt ons .
 
Ok to put all of these replies into one easy thing you can read. If you want 300 horsepower at the wheels you are going to need a lot more than just minor bolt ons. If you take a look at my mod list its pretty extensive, I would say thats not even 300 WHP and thats with an XP cam. 300 WHP is running high 12s without a problem. If you are talking crank horsepower then things such as rockers, cold air, downpipe and a tune will get you right in your ballpark.
 
I'm guessing I'm only around 280whp. I'm running 3.25 pulley, pacesetters, xp cam, ported blower, and so on.
 
Just to help ya'll with a 1/4 mile time estimation i pulled off a 14.4 with the mods in my sig...no engine tune just tranny and a 2.1 60'
 


when i can afford it hopefully at the end of this month maybe i will go and get a dyno done to my car w/what mods are in my sig. so that should help a little with what kind of power things make at the wheels . maybe i will stick some nos stickers on after the first dyno to see if they really help to make an extra 5hp . j/k lol
 
well with this horsepower calculator with the mods in my sig and a 1/4 mile time of 14.4 60' time of 2.1 and a trap speed mph of 96.57 and my raceweight being 3735 with driver it gave me a hp estimation of 253.49 at the flywheel....So what i think it is like a 10% reduction from driveline hp loss and that will give you wheel horsepower...guess it would be a close estimate anyway...just google horsepower calculator if anyone needs one


and that is with a tranny tune only...no engine tuning done at the time...just shift points/pressure ect...and no traction in first at all...but i think the calculator figures some of the varibles in as well
 
I'll hopefully be in the 300hp range soon. Ported m90, ported lim, ssic, 3.2 pulley (3.0 with racegas), powertuned, TOGS with 3 inch back, fwi.. but will prolly jsut run a cone right off the throttle body after the ssic is completed.
 
bayareagtp said:
when i can afford it hopefully at the end of this month maybe i will go and get a dyno done to my car w/what mods are in my sig. so that should help a little with what kind of power things make at the wheels . maybe i will stick some nos stickers on after the first dyno to see if they really help to make an extra 5hp . j/k lol
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Dude, i wouldn't even waste the money. Use the money u'd spend on a dyno and get a pulley or soemthing.
 


froman said:
Dude, i wouldn't even waste the money. Use the money u'd spend on a dyno and get a pulley or soemthing.
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my plan was to get a stock dyno and do another after certain mods were done but didnt get the stock so i figure now and then after i do a pulley , Plog (ceramic coated&SS) , crossover pipe (ceramic coated) , modded 1.9's and full exhaust . i dont want to do a pulley until i get a scanner and scan my car first . just want to be safe .
 
have the dyno run done, it will verify the mods do something, the butt dyno is fine if that's all you want, but I want facts
 
If you don't mind spending the money, 3800performance.com has thi stage 6 kit for 2500.00. They also have 1-5 for different prices. They're claiming with the 6(with good traction and temp), you should be able to pull high 12's. Seems like a good deal if you ask me, especially with everything you get.....


APPLICATIONS:
- 1997-2004 Grand Prix GTP
- 1997-2003 Regal GS
- 2004-2005 Monte Carlo Supercharged SS
- 2004-2005 Impala SS

The Stage 6 Performance Package was created specifically for the “hard-core” enthusiast who wishes to immediately transform their 3800 Supercharged vehicle into a real “V8 Killer”!! This package comes with everything you need that will easily turn a completely stock GTP into a very low 13-second car (and into the high-12's with the proper conditions and traction) for under $2500. You will not find a more-complete engine package at this price anywhere else!

The Stage 6 Performance Package includes everything from the Stage 5 package but replaces the SLP Aluminum Roller Rocker Arms/Pushrods Package with a custom Comp Cams camshaft (and upgraded Comp Cam valvetrain components) that will safely run on stock cylinder heads. We also provide a custom-programmed version the DHP PCM. Also added to the package, is the Thrasher Transmission Shift Kit for lightning-quick shifts.

We also give you the option to simply rent or purchase the proper Pulley Puller Tool to safely swap your supercharger pulley, so that your modifying is easy and economical.

3800SC Stage 6 Performance Package Includes:
Comp Cams custom cam and upgraded Comp Cam valvetrain components
Thrasher Transmission Shift Kit
SLP Performance Parts Coated Exhaust Headers with 3 different downpipe options
PRJ Performance Ignition Wires
DynoMax Super Turbo Cat-Back Exhaust System with the option to upgrade to the SLP “Loudmouth” Exhaust System
Digital Horsepower Inc. customized PCM. (click here to read product information and the Disclaimer you must agree to.)
your choice of either a 3.4”, 3.25”, or 3.0” pulley
your choice of either a Press-On Pulley or the upgraded Thrasher Modular Pulley System
Thrasher Cold Air Induction Kit with the option to upgrade to the MSP Cold Air Induction System
Goodyear Gatorback Supercharger Belt
160-degree or 180-degree SLP Performance Parts Thermostat
Optional Coolant Recovery Bottle for 1997-1998 owners
Optional Intake F-duct for 1997-1998 owners upgrading to the MSP CAI System
Optional Thrasher Supercharger Pulley Puller Tool for Rental or Purchase
NOTES:
You will NEED to run spark plugs with a colder heat range to match this performance package. Since everyone has their own personal preferences, experiences and opinions, we let you choose from one of our 4 different offerings to best-fit your preference/needs with which heat range and which type of plug (copper core, double platinum, or all-out race plug) you desire. See our 'Related Products' links below.
 
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