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1971 Datsun

Only problem I kinda see here and this is a maybe, is that the only 2 pulleys keeping that belt in line are the crank and alternator. The groves in the belt might walk all over the place on the water pump pulley, the stock setup has the smooth back on the belt riding the pulley.


But with strong tension and small belt, it may not even matter.

I had worried about that to, but I rotated it like 50 times lol... I know that means nothing but we will see, at least until I can get the a/c brackets and the delete pulley..
 


well almost had it in today... was mocking it up and cutting were needed, then went to put the tranny on and stuff it when i noticed the pilot bearing was ugly so hell ill go ahead and change it.... stupid F'er wont come out and i broke a piece off... well guess its chisel time or dremel... hate pilot bearings.... on the up side it looks good in the bay.
 


Try one of these guys yet?

puller.jpg
 
Looks awesome, only thing I'd change is I'd put a CS144 alternator on there. You already have the correct bracket and everything to it'd be a simple swap, and you'll have PLENTY of power, with the bonus that your engine won't eat alternators anymore.


Sorry, I just swapped mine and I don't see why more people don't do it, so I'm gonna tell everyone to do it! lol Great work on the car!
 
Looks awesome, only thing I'd change is I'd put a CS144 alternator on there. You already have the correct bracket and everything to it'd be a simple swap, and you'll have PLENTY of power, with the bonus that your engine won't eat alternators anymore.


Sorry, I just swapped mine and I don't see why more people don't do it, so I'm gonna tell everyone to do it! lol Great work on the car!

Ive never had a problem with the ALT, it does overcharge abit when its crazy cold outside, but othere than that i been beating it for 2 yrs and before that who knows.
 
i tried a slide hammer type. and it just laughed at it. i didnt want to drive all the way into town (20 mile round trip) to autozone to rent one, to tired working Mids this week so running on minimum sleep...
 
I had to take dad's pilot bearing off when i did the original clutch in his truck at 250K miles. It came right off. You're not as lucky but i wish you well.
 


Looks awesome, only thing I'd change is I'd put a CS144 alternator on there. You already have the correct bracket and everything to it'd be a simple swap, and you'll have PLENTY of power, with the bonus that your engine won't eat alternators anymore.


Sorry, I just swapped mine and I don't see why more people don't do it, so I'm gonna tell everyone to do it! lol Great work on the car!

it wont clear the F body intake

to remove the pilot bearing and you have an alignment tool....pack the inside of the crank/bearing with grease flush to the face of the bearing (try to remove all air...aka put your grease gun and pump it full and pump as you remove the greasegun hose/end)

then get a drift punch/alignment tool put it in the middle and smack it with a hammer to press the bearing out with hydraulic forces

good luck
 
so this is what i came up with for the belts, i used a bigger pulley on the drive tensioner and a smaller belt, its tight and the water pump seems to engage fine with no slipping, at least when turned by hand and trying to make it slip. the supercharger is just the stock way with a new tensioner pulley, but it looks funny to me like maybe i put it on wrong? besides that just need the oil pan finished up and i can put this beast in.




this routing will end up spinning your WP backwards resulting in overheating...the WP spins the opposite direction of the crank....aka you have to have the smooth side driving it.

that commodore dual idler bracket/stand looks a whole helluva lot like one of the pieces used on the SI L67 beltdrive...but i know it isnt cause the block doesnt have the same bolt pattern on the face as the SII L67....

but id guess for something like that you could turn a single "wide" pulley to use the US SC idler stand and allow both belts to ride on it...it'll work just fine unless you get a crank pulley with an OD (cant have belts spin at different speeds)
 
it wont clear the F body intake

to remove the pilot bearing and you have an alignment tool....pack the inside of the crank/bearing with grease flush to the face of the bearing (try to remove all air...aka put your grease gun and pump it full and pump as you remove the greasegun hose/end)

then get a drift punch/alignment tool put it in the middle and smack it with a hammer to press the bearing out with hydraulic forces

good luck

did it with bread and grease... no go.
 
this routing will end up spinning your WP backwards resulting in overheating...the WP spins the opposite direction of the crank....aka you have to have the smooth side driving it.

that commodore dual idler bracket/stand looks a whole helluva lot like one of the pieces used on the SI L67 beltdrive...but i know it isnt cause the block doesnt have the same bolt pattern on the face as the SII L67....

but id guess for something like that you could turn a single "wide" pulley to use the US SC idler stand and allow both belts to ride on it...it'll work just fine unless you get a crank pulley with an OD (cant have belts spin at different speeds)

yup your right... guess i was looking at it cross eyed.... guess this is not going to get done for awhile....
 
Couldn't you run a smaller pulley on the tensioner, and just wrap the belt farther around the crank and come up the other side of the WP? Hard to tell if you'd have the clearance in the pic.
 


Just as a suggestion, if you're not going to go below a 3.4 setup could you just run an SSM90 belt setup? It's a single belt setup to make it easy.

Also this s a buddies M90 setup on his Camaro:

 
ok after over thinking this way to much, here is what I've come up with.... I'll just make the alternator adjustable like every old engine in the world... I'm such a dumbass for not thinking of it sooner. here is what it will look like. any foreseeable problems?




and the only problem is the bolt here which i will replace and trim the plastic cover.

 
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