'00 Impala LS - 5 Speed and Supercharged

[Sven the Sexman]

i was gonna say that if your interested in the monoball pins i can readily waterjet out two monoball cup to OEM 3 bolt brackets.

i have the oem bj centerline to the 3 bolt distance and pattern readily available but id need to know what size cup/ball yer using.

i was planning on running a few a while back for the turbo regal's zzp arms

I would take him up on this outonthetiles 5 speed impala guy.

 

[91parkave]

I was referring to if you're using coilovers the top plate where it allows the strut shot through can be moved up to allow the body to lower farther with the same strut travel

 

[91parkave]

james- if you have a cess to make the plates happen I can send you the material to cut it out and all that let me know

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

the strut lowering reinforcement plates or the lower monoball joint plate

 

[91parkave]

Monoball joint plate to fit my zzp lca

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fkb-cpw12/overview/

 

[jerZcavy4120]

between you and Ginseng...
its becoming very difficult to resist the urge to do a 5spd swap!

keep up the awesome work man!

 

[darkhorizon]

If I ever did a 5speed wbody swap I would use the F23 from a Jbody for sure, you can get a torsen style diff for those if you wanted, but I really love clutch types for racing and weekend cars for sure (putting one in my honda CRX eventually).

Look me up at the Wbody meet would love to cruise around in this thing for a minute!

 

[91parkave]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fkb-cpw12/overview/

Is that gonna weld flat to a plate how do you have yours designed

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

that cup gets welded into a slightly oval hole in the plate at the angle of the knuckle/monoball pin

picture a ring with three holes for the LCA bolts instead of three rock's fer the old lady
the Teflon or steel/steel monoball is then popped into the sleeve and the snap ring installed

12$ each cup and up to 23 for each ball

our 1" (16) series cups and joints weren't a whole lot more but you need spacer or alignment sleeves for the larger ball opening with the 3/4" monoball pins on the bottom of the knuckle.

the thing is I didn't like the added leverage at the knuckle taper with the relatively weak oe aluminum knuckle so we went with 4 dorman steel knuckles

 

[outonthetiles]

I am definetly going to take you up on that. I've been working on the car all day and can't really doing the thinking this requires right now.

I've never used a monoball joint before so I'm a bit uneducated in what to use in this setup.

Do you know the weight difference between the steel and aluminum knuckles? I wonder if it would be better to machine the aluminum knuckles and press in some sort of steel sleeve to prevent it from wallowing out?

I'm going to get some sleep and come back to this with a fresh brain tomorrow.

 

[91parkave]

Yea I need some pics to get a good idea. I get the concept and all but I need to know where exactly the bearing sleeve needs to be to make measurements

 

[outonthetiles]

So, for the roll center correction I would be looking at getting:

2x - FK Rod Ends CPW12 - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fkb-cpw12/overview/

2x - FK Precision Wide Series Spherical Bearings WSSX12T - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fkb-wssx12t

2x - UB Machine 40-4921 - http://ubmachine.com/balljointspins.html (are these the right ones?)

2x - LCA to Monoball adapter

Am I missing anything here?



And for the bump steer correction I would be looking at:

2x UB Machine 40-4203 - http://ubmachine.com/balljointspins.html

1x Baer Brakes 3301011 - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/b...tOknN1CF3BnNAqNuQtWOGTn7RtfQ0oyexahoC0bzw_wcB (any idea if these will work with the UB Machine monoball adapters?



And then the dorman steel knuckles. Am I on the right track here?

 

[outonthetiles]

And for an update...

Things are finally starting to come together. Mocked everything up so I could check for belt lengths and start the wire tuck.
Not sure what I was doing here:

My friends Joe and Jim stopped by to paint my crank pulley and polish my supercharger bolts. No standing around at the shop, I put people to work :th_winking:

I think it looks badass with the belts/accessories like this:

Made a heat shield to protect the wiring from the heat of the crossover pipe:

 

[outonthetiles]

My buddy Trevor made me a sweet idler pulley because I was complaining about the plastic one I had on there. It came out sweet! We're thinking about doing our own 8 rib setup for the sc belt.

IC reservoir will live here, battery is getting moved to the trunk:

New input shaft bearing/seal pressed into the bellhousing:

Installed the old clutch and pressure plate. No sense in testing out the new seal on a new $800 clutch:

Completed torque strut setup:

Engine bay pretty much finished:

Bad ass brass shift bushings I had Trevor make for me to replace the worn nylon ones. This will get rid of whatever side to side play the shift lever had:

And now to spend the rest of my life on the wiring harness:

 

[REDCRAPGP]

Awesome work so far


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[91parkave]

Those mounts man I hope don't Crack at the aluminium. Especially when the driveline shock of a manual does. I wish the best for this but you might wana think about a failsafe in the event that mount cracks

 

[outonthetiles]

Can't be scared..

 

[CrazyGuy03]

Fantastic work. Really like that pulley you made

 

[Timing]

Would you mind going more into detail with as many pictures as you got for that input shaft bearing/seal fix?