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'00 Impala LS - 5 Speed and Supercharged

ha now it makes sense why your interested in the monoball pins for roll center and bump steer correction.

a bit of info for you to mull over, the lower joint pins are for 3/4" rod ends, so your oem or zzp lca's will need to be setup for a monoball or a heim.

for the steering youll need the rod end adaptors for the F body guys that run the bump steer kits. our and their inner tie rods are the same thread and terminate at the same distance from the knuckle taper. so thats a bolt on with the F body stuff.

are your struts dropped at the knuckle ear to gain compression travel? how lowered are you?
 


I love seeing builds like this good to see a fellow impala owner modding as well i got hurry and and get my motor built u moving fast bro!!!
 
Turbocharged400sbc said:
ha now it makes sense why your interested in the monoball pins for roll center and bump steer correction.

a bit of info for you to mull over, the lower joint pins are for 3/4" rod ends, so your oem or zzp lca's will need to be setup for a monoball or a heim.

for the steering youll need the rod end adaptors for the F body guys that run the bump steer kits. our and their inner tie rods are the same thread and terminate at the same distance from the knuckle taper. so thats a bolt on with the F body stuff.

are your struts dropped at the knuckle ear to gain compression travel? how lowered are you?
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Thanks for the info. I guess the biggest hurdle would be to set up my oem LCA's for a heim joint.

I am only lowered about 1.5" right now, but plan on going much lower with BC Racing coilovers for a Camry modded to fit. I don't want to sacrifice suspension geometry to go low though, that's why I am so interested in your setup.


Ginseng said:
Well im assuming you changed the original input seal when you had the trans redone with the multiple trans that you had. And it blew out even with a new seal?
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Not sure how familiar you are with it, but it is a seal and bearing built into a sleeve that the TOB rides on, so you need to replace the whole unit. Not just the seal. When I sent my trans out to EP, he was unable to find a replacement seal. He tried a redi-sleeve but that was unsuccessful, so he put the seal out of the better of the two transmissions I sent him in it. It lasted a couple thousand miles and my clutch began to slip again. I found a source for oem bearings from another application that seem to have the same dimensions as the old one I took out. I'll let you know as soon as I install one and see if it is going to work, and I buy another or two for spares as I was only able to find one supplier with limited stock.
 
Kuntzie modified Camry coils and what you do is make custom top mounts for the fronts and cut off and move the mount and that's about it. You'll need newer motor mounts. And a full stack of vinnie spacers.
 
outonthetiles said:
Not sure how familiar you are with it, but it is a seal and bearing built into a sleeve that the TOB rides on, so you need to replace the whole unit. Not just the seal. When I sent my trans out to EP, he was unable to find a replacement seal. He tried a redi-sleeve but that was unsuccessful, so he put the seal out of the better of the two transmissions I sent him in it. It lasted a couple thousand miles and my clutch began to slip again. I found a source for oem bearings from another application that seem to have the same dimensions as the old one I took out. I'll let you know as soon as I install one and see if it is going to work, and I buy another or two for spares as I was only able to find one supplier with limited stock.
Click to expand...

I have the seal and bearing inc for wends. 306vvl for bearing and 222835 for the seal. I have a few left in country.
 


Finished sanding the radiator support and got that painted up. Going to do a clearcoat and touch up some other areas of the engine bay before everything gets put back together.
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Rear brakes are done.
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Made a jig for u-bend deletion on my SD headers.
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Split the trans apart to replace the input shaft seal.
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My favorite part of the whole car:
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Looks good.

I'm always a fan of keeping things clean and simple, so I can't wait to see the engine bay when it's all finished.
 


Ran into a lot of time wasters this week. Motor is pretty much back together. Been working getting the accessories squared away.

Because I can't leave anything well enough alone, I decided to do a low mount alternator setup. First design with stock alternator:
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I think it would have worked fine but I wasn't happy with it. After doing some research (trip to the junkyard) I decided to use a 130 amp alternator from a 01 Yukon. Allows for a much more compact, simpler mounting system and will be a decent little upgrade.
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Another neat touch will be that I am getting rid of the stock alternator bracket and coolant elbows. I will tap the front cover and lim to 3/4npt and run the heater hoses directly. Cleans up the bay a bit more and shaves a bit more weight from up top. Machined a spacer for a belt tensioner that will bolt to the head and keep the belt routing close to stock. Not finished with this but I think it will work out perfectly.
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Heading out now to work on it some more. Need to make another run to the junkyard today. Was trying to square everything up on the subframe yesterday and noticed it was a bit tweaked. Probably wouldn't make a difference but I'm not putting all this time and money into the car not to have it perfect.
 
The subframe has alignment holes on the passenger sides use a 1/2 drive extention to stick in while you tighten it down.
 
I'm aware of the alignment holes. It wasn't misaligned, the subframe was actually bent. Looks like it had been bottomed out pretty hard. Must not have noticed when I put it in.



New subframe, trans mount perch cut off and holes drilled for the 284 mount.
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Almost done with one of my lower engine torque rods. Going to be making the other today. Very pleased with how it is coming out.
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Gonna be finishing up with the engine bay/ radiator support painting today. If all goes well I should be putting the motor in the car sometime next week. Going to do most of the wire tuck before I put the motor back in, that should be a huge time-killer.
 
FYI you can lower the car and keep your lca level still if you just raise your attachment point for the strut rod

I'm lowered this much but still maintain just a tad under factory strut travel and my lca Is level
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What attachment point are you talking about? The strut mount?

You would either have to move the LCA pivot points on the vehicle up, or space the ball joint down to correct roll center after lowering. What you're talking about would help with strut travel but not roll center.
 
i was gonna say that if your interested in the monoball pins i can readily waterjet out two monoball cup to OEM 3 bolt brackets.

i have the oem bj centerline to the 3 bolt distance and pattern readily available but id need to know what size cup/ball yer using.

i was planning on running a few a while back for the turbo regal's zzp arms
 
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