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Engine conversion kit

matt5112 said:
The only way to tell if the PCM is correct is to scan.

If it needs adjustment, then via a tuner.

Thus the tuner will know if he should be concerned with flow.

Its more important to have the electronics functional first.

Then sort out tune as previously mentioned.

THEN we can talk headers.
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True dat.
 


BTW guys.. look back a page. I posted what the codes appear to be. And my buddy called so I was chatting while you guys posted up a storm.

Looks like it needs to come visit Uncle Bill. Once I can get my hands on it, then I'll know better what was done/needs to be done.

Sending a pm with phone number
 
BillBoost37 said:
BTW guys.. look back a page. I posted what the codes appear to be. And my buddy called so I was chatting while you guys posted up a storm.

Looks like it needs to come visit Uncle Bill. Once I can get my hands on it, then I'll know better what was done/needs to be done.

Sending a pm with phone number
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You and your damn ninja edits.
 
John stopped by yesterday for a little bit. We made some progress on his car.

Pulled the loom off the harness and traced those added wires back. The pcm pins for them weren't fully seated (retaining clip in way) and we pulled them. Then verified and plugged in the MAP sensor, moved where the BCS pulled power. That took care of most of the codes. From there we reran those wires for the baro sensor (didn't see it tucked under teh bracket. That took care of most of the codes.

A progress pic. John was very calm with his engine bay looking like this.
2011-08-21_09-26-57_639.jpg


Pulled the bin off the pcm and found it to be a Comp G bin with the wrong vin. Reprogrammed him to a GTP bin with the correct vin. This eliminated the last code for manual shift soleniod circuit malfunction. His GT doesn't have the shifter or ttrans for the tap shift stuff.

When he left there was no check engine lights. Only code that may come back was the O2 because it was based on at least 10 hours with key off. Rerouted the O2 though. It was touching the rear plug wires in a couple places.

John.. any lights/updates?
 
BillBoost37 said:
John stopped by yesterday for a little bit. We made some progress on his car.

Pulled the loom off the harness and traced those added wires back. The pcm pins for them weren't fully seated (retaining clip in way) and we pulled them. Then verified and plugged in the MAP sensor, moved where the BCS pulled power. That took care of most of the codes. From there we reran those wires for the baro sensor (didn't see it tucked under teh bracket. That took care of most of the codes.

A progress pic. John was very calm with his engine bay looking like this.
2011-08-21_09-26-57_639.jpg


Pulled the bin off the pcm and found it to be a Comp G bin with the wrong vin. Reprogrammed him to a GTP bin with the correct vin. This eliminated the last code for manual shift soleniod circuit malfunction. His GT doesn't have the shifter or ttrans for the tap shift stuff.

When he left there was no check engine lights. Only code that may come back was the O2 because it was based on at least 10 hours with key off. Rerouted the O2 though. It was touching the rear plug wires in a couple places.

John.. any lights/updates?
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Bill, your crazy. But good job and hopefully everything is running good John.
 


No Bill. Check engine light free!!!! Awesome. You were great man. Definitely a professional guy. I would recommend you to anybody. Thank you so much for your help. It is NegativeOne. So far so good!!! Huge weight off my shoulders
 
Technically if you put a non compg file on, you are going to be getting some gear ratio codes.... Watch transmission temperature.
 
John.Super.. :th_thumbsup-wink:

DH.. It appeared to have a full L32 swap dropped in with trans. I saw no signs of the trans bolts being pulled.
 


BillBoost37 said:
I missed something though. I didn't scan the trans to see if 3rd gear was 1:1 or not. DH brings up a good point.
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It took ~1week to get the code to show because the 3rd gear ratio was actually reading like 1.04 or something... It was not off as much as the series2 stuff usually is. I ended up changing the sprocket ISS ratio from 22.3 to 22.9 or something.... it was a very small change and made zero mathmatical sence.
 
John, could you take an after shot of the engine bay at your convenience? Bill and I are talking, and you should so post up some after shots.
 
John... I'm going to see if anyone up your way can scan it to double check which chain/trans is in it. We'll get it cleared right up if it's wrong.
 
Ahhh damn.... looks good!

Few things that over time would make it look hella better. Tint, remove the plastic tail light outlines and get it actually painted, and paint your rotor hats!
 


NegativeOne13 said:
Ahhh damn.... looks good!

Few things that over time would make it look hella better. Tint, remove the plastic tail light outlines and get it actually painted, and paint your rotor hats!
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I agree with everything you said, lol, then call it :th_skull:Death Vader:th_skull:!! lol. jk
 
scottydoggs said:
i told ya that was fixable lol great work bill. nice and clean looking.
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He did a great job. After I got there I was just waiting for him to be like "oh boy this is bad" but it never happened. He was very positive and casual about it like he was just tinkering around in the garage or something. Brilliant!
 
Trapkit said:
He did a great job. After I got there I was just waiting for him to be like "oh boy this is bad" but it never happened. He was very positive and casual about it like he was just tinkering around in the garage or something. Brilliant!
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its nice when you find someone who knows wtf is going on.
 
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