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Fram oil filters - crap or not??



When I bought my filter about a week ago I did not have any of this information. Even then, it seemed that the extra guard filter was a better filter (even at a slightly higher price) than the ecore designs of the Delco and SuperTech. Now that I have this info I wish I would have spent a little more and gone with the synthetic as well. I only run synthetic oil and I agree with the previous comments on extended drains. The right oil is good for well over 7500 miles, and with a filter that will do the same it would save time and money over the long haul. Now that I know the dirt holding capacity and crucial specs of the various filters, I wish I had also gone with the better filter. Either way, I am satisfied that the Fram was the better choice at the time. This has been very informative, and I have not seen similar info posted from other companies with which to make a fair comparison. I think the old saying goes that information is king.

Edit: Just thought I would also throw out there that back in the day when I worked as a lube tech (~10 years ago or so), we would often use our filters (Delco, but back when they had better quality filters) and full synthetic that was good for extended drains, then we would recommend that they come in for just a filter change at 3-5k miles. This would refresh the filter and make sure it still had the dirt holding capacity, and of course a 1/2 to 1 quart of fresh oil to boost the life and base stocks of the oil. With the right oil and filter combination however, I don't believe this step would be necessary.
 
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I said "It sounded as if the poster is saying all Fram filters are made in the USA."

I did not say the poster said "all Fram products are made in the USA"

I did not say "the poster said all WIX filters are made in India"

I said "I didn't see any of their manufacturing facilities in India" (when I looked at their list on their website)

I did not say "products found in department stores = poor quality and are different than the 'same' product when purchased at NAPA"

I did say "I'm not saying that equates to poor quality"

I think I'm being fair on the comments I've made. I'm not bashing on your product in any way and I'm not bashing you in any way in this thread. I'm just posting up what I have learned.
 
Fram is a lower end company when it comes to Oil Filters, however, it depends alot on the vehicle. As a parts guy who sells fram filters, I always used them on my grand prix. When I wrecked a rod bearing and swapped the engine, I was curious to see what was at fault. I hooked up a gauge and threw a fram filter on the new engine. I would get about 55 PSI under normal driving conditions. Then I threw a Wix on, and I was anywhere from 60-70PSI under normal driving conditions. I did some more research and found that on all 3.1, 3.4, and 3.8L GM Engines that a Fram filter can reduce oil pressure by up to 15 PSI!!!! I blame the Fram filter, and the stupid choice of stressing the engine with cheap quaker state oil was the culprit for my destroyed rod bearing. Hope this helps!
 


Fram is a lower end company when it comes to Oil Filters, however, it depends alot on the vehicle. As a parts guy who sells fram filters, I always used them on my grand prix. When I wrecked a rod bearing and swapped the engine, I was curious to see what was at fault. I hooked up a gauge and threw a fram filter on the new engine. I would get about 55 PSI under normal driving conditions. Then I threw a Wix on, and I was anywhere from 60-70PSI under normal driving conditions. I did some more research and found that on all 3.1, 3.4, and 3.8L GM Engines that a Fram filter can reduce oil pressure by up to 15 PSI!!!! I blame the Fram filter, and the stupid choice of stressing the engine with cheap quaker state oil was the culprit for my destroyed rod bearing. Hope this helps!

It does not dude, the WIX filter has slightly higher oil pressure due to it not filtering dirt from the oil. The oil passes right through the cheap filter media because it is not removing dirt in a WIX filter. GM says normal oil pressure for your engine is 40psi hot. I have two 3.4 engines in my family that have 175k plus miles, using Fram filters and quality oil. Please rpovide us with the links to conclusive testing showing the data that shows reduced oil pressure.
BTW- This is GM's only published oil pressure spec for your car
Specifications Oil Pressure 103kPa (15 psi) @ 1100 RPM


Thats it, it has to have 15psi at 1100 rpm. Please do not spread misinformation about things you know nothing about. Fram invented oil filters and has been making them for 80 years. We are OE on Honda, Subaru and Mack trucks, all vehicle with stellar reliability. Ask WIX what they are OE on-Nothing.
 
Man, reading all this has changed my perspective on Fram. I used to run Fram filters and then one day I heard the rumor of "They fall apart in the filter and clog up the passages". I would assume that would be from not changing the oil though. I work for a filter distribution company and the last filter I put on my GP was a Baldwin. I will be changing my oil tomorrow and I think that I may buy a Fram.
 
Sorry for putting yet another jug of mobil 1000 and a PH fram on my car.

I want to ensure its clean.

XG and mobil 1 5W30 coming soon....
 
Sorry for putting yet another jug of mobil 1000 and a PH fram on my car.

I want to ensure its clean.

XG and mobil 1 5W30 coming soon....


I'm running Mobil 1 5w30 in mine right now, will be switching to Mobil 1 0W30 next change as there is no reason not to. Same hot thickness yet better at cold temps.

Still running Mobil 1 or K&N oil filters.
 


A guy on the local forum posted this:

(Study done in January of this year)
GM Truck Central Oil Filter Study

Post actual results of testing don't just regurgitate old information and opinions that we all have known. Just because your grandpa said Fram sucks doesn't mean it's true. I guess everyone is entitled to their opinion but that doesn't make it a fact, far from it actually.
 
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I'm running Mobil 1 5w30 in mine right now, will be switching to Mobil 1 0W30 next change as there is no reason not to. Same hot thickness yet better at cold temps.

Still running Mobil 1 or K&N oil filters.

I'm on a hunt for a 0W-30 as well.

Was considering 0W-20 and the 04+ pressure relief valve as well.
 
A guy on the local forum posted this:

(Study done in January of this year)
GM Truck Central Oil Filter Study

Post actual results of testing don't just regurgitate old information and opinions that we all have known. Just because your grandpa said Fram sucks doesn't mean it's true. I guess everyone is entitled to their opinion but that doesn't make it a fact, far from it actually.

Seeing some of these results makes me glad I am changing my oil today. I put a Baldwin filter on my car last and from the looks of it, they do a horrible job.
 
Matt,

Luckily Walmart here carries the 5 quart jugs of 0w30 Mobil 1.

Are you sure you want to try 0w20 in the 3.8? My 06 still calls for 5w30.

I run 5w20 in the wifes vue, but the Honda engine calls for it. I will be switching that over to 0w20 next as well.
 
Why would you want to switch to anything other than the manufacture suggests? The only reason I would stray from that is if the motor had internal mods, cam, rocker, ect.
 


Why would you want to switch to anything other than the manufacture suggests? The only reason I would stray from that is if the motor had internal mods, cam, rocker, ect.


5W30 and 0W30 have the same exact specs at operating temperature. The main difference is 0w30 does not get as thick as it cools. This is a good thing for any engine.

GM recommends 0W30 synthetic in the 3.8 if you are running where it gets very cold. Fact is 0W30 will be beneficial to any engine that sees cooler temperatures and is what you should run if you are running synthetic. The reason the car comes with 5w30 is because it is shipped with conventional oil and it is not possible to make 0w30 conventional.

From what I recall, the ONLY reason Mobil makes both 5W30 and 0W30 synthetic is because many people would not buy 0w30 because it does not match what the oil cap says.
 
^^^Basically it's thinner at start-up but just as thin when running.

I run Mobile 0w-30 in my car in the winter. It's (Mobile 1) 0w-30 and can be found in 5 gallon jugs at Walmart.
 
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Well just as thin when its running.

It gets thinner as it gets warmer.

Looks like i'd have to buy the "made in germany" castrol syntec in 0W-30 or find an amsoil dealer.
 
GM recommends 0W30 synthetic in the 3.8 if you are running where it gets very cold. Fact is 0W30 will be beneficial to any engine that sees cooler temperatures and is what you should run if you are running synthetic. The reason the car comes with 5w30 is because it is shipped with conventional oil and it is not possible to make 0w30 conventional.
[citation needed]
 
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