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Fram oil filters - crap or not??



I used a fram once. Found bits of paper in my oil a week later. I flushed the entire engine out and vowed to never use that orange death ever again.
 
Something EVERYONE needs to realize is almost every company out there goes through phases.

For example,

Dell once made great computers, this ended around 2000-2001 some would say even sooner.

Alpine had some of the best automotive audio components on the planet. In my opinion this ended in the early 1990s.

Pioneer made very highend audio equipment and then turned to unreliable junk in the early 1980s.

Companies very often go from great to junk and then back to great. Because Fram made garbage 10 years ago doesn't mean they haven't completely changed their products.

I have not tried any of Fram's filters yet but am considering it.
 


I quit listening to others when I found out they are not always right.

And no offense to the guy above but how does that even happen? I have never seen a filter just collapse on it's own.
Unless it was 100+ outside and you don't have a oil pressure gauge or didn't look at it. I just don't see how that could happen. Which filter did you use? XG30,TG30, HM30, DG30, PH30? If that is a XG30 I would be surprised.
 
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I stand corrected on the brand.

However, many manufacturer's consider the warranty void once you crack open their product.

By your logic 87 octane fuel should be labeled "not recommended for high performance applications" as well?
 
I guess it only takes one to make you never go back. I apprciate your knowledge and experience. I just think that something else had to possibly have gone wrong to cause that. But thats just my opinion.

I am wondering why if you have so much money into this boat, you didn't spend the extra $1 and try Fram's best filter?

Fram XG5 - Fram Xtended Guard Oil Filters - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Not that it would have made a huge difference but I mean it's only $1.
 


I have to agree. Or better yet, why didn't you use a Fram Racing Filter?http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?t...nt&form_prod_id=101,1066_677&action=product)?

I don't mean to take sides, but if you have so much time on your hands you could have researched the actual filter specs. I have not done so but would bet the filter you used was not designed for the scenario you put it in (and Fram is usually better at making this info available than most filter companies). If that were the case, Fram wouldn't owe you a thing if they had published specs on what the filter could handle and you exceeded that.

Either way, your situation completely sucks. I am certain that none of us would wish that on anyone, but I also believe it could have happened with most any other filter as well. You also mentioned that you were not looking at the oil pressure at the time. Perhaps there was a problem that was not related to the filter at all, that caused your oil pressure to suddenly spike enough to have done that to the filter. I see a lot of variables that could come into play here, and you seem set on blaming Fram because you have heard somewhere that they suck and you have no real evidence to either support or deny it...
 
I would look at this if you didn't see it above:

GM Truck Central Oil Filter Study

He actually tested the filter you used in your boat. The TG5 (Like you used) was in the lower range of ratings while the XG5 (Fram Extra-Guard) was rated the best filter. But like I said, that is just one guys opinion from his study of filters.

Here is the gradesheet:

http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/oilfilter/gradesheet.htm

I would still try to go after Fram no doubt about it. I am just saying I don't think everyone should write them off just yet.

 
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Pure2sin said:
I would look at this if you didn't see it above:

GM Truck Central Oil Filter Study

He actually tested the filter you used in your boat. The TG5 (Like you used) was in the lower range of ratings while the XG5 (Fram Extra-Guard) was rated the best filter. But like I said, that is just one guys opinion from his study of filters.
Click to expand...

It is worth noting that this was a filtration study, not a durability test and really has nothing to do with blowing up motors (unless you use the STP that fell apart).
 
SlowNA06 said:
It is worth noting that this was a filtration study, not a durability test and really has nothing to do with blowing up motors (unless you use the STP that fell apart).
Click to expand...

He has a category for "Overall build quality". So I would assume he graded them on how well they were put together and the materials used. He probably didn't run each one on a car or trunk for 3000 miles but if he did that it would take a LONG time.

I am totally not defending Fram at all. I am just saying there is a possibility that their top of the line filter is good. I have been running K&N filters but they cost way too much.
 
I read an article awhile ago about a guy who bought every brand of oil filter you could imagine and took them all apart to see how they were built. The regular fram filters were made like crap. So were a **** ton of other brands that I always thought were good.

The one fram filter that IS made well supposedly is the fram tough guard. It was built as well if not better then alot of the "high" end oil filters. Just what I read, not sure if its absolutely true. The guy did have a very lengthy testing model for how he judged the filters. Flow rate, construction, materials used and so on.....

Just my two pennies !
 


thegipper said:
I read an article awhile ago about a guy who bought every brand of oil filter you could imagine and took them all apart to see how they were built. The regular fram filters were made like crap. So were a **** ton of other brands that I always thought were good.

The one fram filter that IS made well supposedly is the fram tough guard. It was built as well if not better then alot of the "high" end oil filters. Just what I read, not sure if its absolutely true. The guy did have a very lengthy testing model for how he judged the filters. Flow rate, construction, materials used and so on.....

Just my two pennies !
Click to expand...

I think you mean extended guard. That is their most expensive filter. Tough guard is one up form the standard filter.
 
Sold Honda Bought Hondo said:
Mr. Tube...dude...."companies go through phases"? lol....close to 10 years now....and still phasing........
As of last month they are still producing garbage.....garbage that turned the 70 427 chev. i built for my boat into garbage..
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It collapsed internally.....took out half the rod brngs, 2 rods....smoked the
std/std oem forged steel crank and spun #3 main brng so hard i will be lucky if i can save the 70 427 4 bolt main std bore block...
And so far Fram is ignoring me....not good..for them...i have a lot of free time...i will see if i can file a case in small claims court and i will join every bullitin board i can find and will make sure everyone in this town knows they are garbage..
But...if you have a motor you don't like...or tend to learn things the hard way
Click to expand...

Hello,
I am the tech manager at Fram. I would like to help you here. This is what kind of filter? Did you remove or block the bypass valve in the engine? I am asking because the only way this could happen is if your bypass valve has been modified, removed or blocked off. That is a common (though misguided) mod on older chevy engines. If it was blocked off, you should have been using a racing filter with a 22psi bypass. The only way a filter can collapse is when oil cannot bypass a full media cartridge. Please help me undertsand what happened and I will see if I can help. The photo is dated 2008? Did you immediately contact Fram? Do you have a quality claim number?
 
Sold Honda Bought Hondo said:
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White...yes...stamp on end? And what might i have lost by taking the fiter apart if i have all the pieces and proper documentation?

No offense taken.......As for how it might happen? No it did not collapse on it own....poor construction and oil pressure is the cause.
What would ambient air temp. have to do with it? It 100* air temp to hot to run a motor?.....Sorry, this is lake havasu....during the summer it might not cool down to 100* even at night.

Oil pressure gauge? 2" autometer liquid filled supported with 3/16 i.d. braided stainless aircraft hose...very accurate and almost instant response time.

"Didn't look at it".....Ah no..got me there...i was not looking at it at the exact instant of failure......@ over 100 mph in a boat,
(1979 hondo hydro..v-drive)
babysitting the oil pressure gauge would not be one of my top priority's....

And if i was watching, what would i have seen? It was making about 65 psi @ 7000 rpm....oil temp was over 170* or else would not have been running that fast in the first place.......and as the filter came apart, what might happen to oil pressure?
If it was making 65 psi after traveling through the restriction of the filter, after the filter came apart and oil was no longer forced through the filter, if anything, it might show a slight increase in pressure, at least up to 72lbs.....that is the pressure the bypass in my oil pump has been shimmed to open at.

As for 'who to listen to'. By most standards my qualifications are rather limited...5 years experience in a hot rod shop...basic turbo/blower motor assembly...18 years GM service tech..retired.
I work in a local boat shop...motor assembling and installation..I average about one a week...i don't do repairs...i don't work on stock stuff....mostly 468ci-620ci chev stuff...roller cam/supercharged/turbo stuff...Marine is a world where anything that is not 100% will fail.....guess i am lucky...the only failure i have had in 2 years is this deal...And i do admit to hearing a few rumors over the years about fram filters.....none of it first hand or first person.....
And note...there is info on the net......i seem to be the one who has proof:th_thumb-up:

Oil and filters are consumable in the marine world....
That motor had about 15hr run time.....3 oil/filter changes 10 qts. a hit. ...Mobil syn. /Vr1....I cut almost all filters open and inspect for problems...oil doesn't get dirty...never gets past 260*....It just gets pounded.......How long/often can you run your car @ 80% throttle?
My deal is either 1100 rpm idle or more than 50%...and a 20 mi. trip to the damn @100% is normal.

Fram sells lots of filters..i guess....and for the number they sell their
failure rate is probably low.....But the issue is.....for something with no moving parts with all the technology of a roll of toilet paper, a coffee can and a rubber band, it should be zero..
Failure can be as simple as my deal..$500 + labor...or my last build.
Assembled motor was almost $12k.....
And stupid as it is, all Fram needs to do is label their product "not recommended for high performance applications....

Like the oil company deal....EPA made them take all the zinc out of oil because it contaminated cat. conv....Not a problem for new cars,
They all have roller lifters/cam followers....Put it in a motor with hydraulic/solid lifters and the cam will crash...10 min. 10K miles...
flat cam wrecks a motor..running all that metal through it....No warning on the oil...minute lube might know better...maybe not...
Lots of people learning the hard/expensive way.....
It comes down to a big corporation against the consumer type deal..
I don't much like it and i have the time and motivation to do something about it...
:D
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Hi again from Fram, Sorry I didnt read your next post (this one) You shimmed the bypass to stay closed untill 72psi??? HUGE mistake when your not running a racing filter. This is your fault dude. The filter did what it is supposed to do, remove dirt and debris from your oil. When the media cartridge was completely full, you have a bypass valve that does not open to 72psi (when it should be around 20-22psi), YOU caused this to happen. This is a classic mistake made by inexperienced engine builders. You shimmed the bypass way up and them you used a 99% efficency passenger car filter? There is a reason we make racing filters with 15gpm flow rates, 500 psi burst strength and 22psi bypass valves built in. If you used one you would still be enjoying this engine. A bypass valve is in the engine for a reason, there are time when the oil is to thick (on cold starts) to flow through the filter media, the bypass opens and you still have oil pressure. There are also times when the media cartridge reaches its full capacity, the bypass opens and you still have oil pressure. Most car companies build this bypass into the oil filter. Old school GM V8's have this valve in the block or oil pump. If you remove or modify it, You have to use a racing filter from any company, they all build bypass valves into the racing filters for old chevys!
 
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