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Valve cover gasket replacement

Burgundyman said:
You are right...I am going ahead with its replacement...I bought a SNAP-ON Compact-Torque Ratchet, 40-200 in. lb., 3/8" drive on eBay (Excellent Price, $85 almost new (retails at $238 from SNAP-ON))....I also went ahead and bought Engine Tilter LIS48260 from Automotive Tools & Equipment. It was $37.99 (S&H add $9.99).

I used blue locktite on the threads - medium strength and it is service removable. I was able to get a spark plug wire holder from GM for $2.50...I am going to replace the spark plug wires while I am at it...

Any logical steps in approaching the removal of the rear vc, once I tilt the engine a bit forward...The front took me about five hours...I was documenting all the steps so as not to forget anything and at the same time, I can help others with details (i.e., socket sizes etc...)
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Disconnect the battery
remove the back plug wires to move them out of the way
remove the alternator and the black alternator bar (most do not put the bar back on)
Loosen the alternator bracket but don't remove the bolts
remove the MAP bracket.
I removed my engine bracket(s) at this time and put them on the shelf.
I think that this should give you the access you need.
Now would be a good time to replace the coolant elbow though. If you do this, go ahead and remove the alternator bracket as it will make removal and installation of the VC somewhat easier.
 
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David99GTP said:
Why shouldnt I remove the alt bracket bolts? I have mine out sitting on my workbench. Was that bad?
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Unless you are planning on replacing the elbows, it's quicker and less messy to leave the alternator bracket on and just lift it enough that the vc can be removed. There is absolutley nothing wrong with how you did it.:)

Edit; Are you saying you only removed the bolts and have them on the bench? That is fine too.

Now that I think about it I may have removed the bolts and just left the bracket held in place by the coolant elbows.
 
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What is MAF?....Why is it a good idea to remove the coolant elbow?...That's the 90 degree elbow just to the right of the alternator?....Right?
 
IndeedSS said:
Unless you are planning on replacing the elbows, it's quicker and less messy to leave the alternator bracket on and just lift it enough that the vc can be removed. There is absolutley nothing wrong with how you did it.:)

Edit; Are you saying you only removed the bolts and have them on the bench? That is fine too.

Now that I think about it I may have removed the bolts and just left the bracket held in place by the coolant elbows.
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Yeah I only removed the bolts and left the bracket on. I was concerned because one bolt had oil on the end of the threads and I thought oh no did all my oil leak out? LOL
I was thinking of replacing the elbows anyway since they are originals and probably brittle. I was thinking of painting the bracket flat black too. I want some more black under the hood so my red valve covers stand out.
 
David99GTP said:
Yeah I only removed the bolts and left the bracket on. I was concerned because one bolt had oil on the end of the threads and I thought oh no did all my oil leak out? LOL
I was thinking of replacing the elbows anyway since they are originals and probably brittle. I was thinking of painting the bracket flat black too. I want some more black under the hood so my red valve covers stand out.
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Vanity, geeeesh. :D
 


Burgundyman said:
What is MAF?....Why is it a good idea to remove the coolant elbow?...That's the 90 degree elbow just to the right of the alternator?....Right?
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Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor. If you look at your rear valve cover there is small horsehoe squared off metal bracket that holds the MAP sensor. I believe this may be in the way of you being able to remove the valve cover. The MAP is a black plastic rectangle with an electrical conenctor and a vacuum line that conenct to the underneath. I believe the same bracket holds the evap solenoid.

If it were me I would remove the alternator bracket and replace the coolant elbow while you are doing all of this. Yes it is the 90* black elbow. If installing a new one, be sure to put a little vasoline on the orings so they slide in easily and don't pinch or bind.
 
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SyntheticShield said:
Lee I think you are thinking of the MAP sensor. The MAF sensor is the sensor on top of the Throttle Body.
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Yep you are correct... Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor. Need to go back and fix those posts.:o

Since I run with a Speed Density tune, I dont even have a MAF. j/k
 


SyntheticShield said:
I want pictures of it in use. Looking at the picture of the tool and seeing it actually in use are two different things.
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If he doesn't get you pictures I will tomorrow. I just got my shortened dogbones in and it only takes a couple of seconds to throw the tilter on and show how it works.
 
I am off and running. Planned on just the alternator being chromed, as you can see I removed a few more peices. My wife is gonna kill me when she finds out I spent 650 at the chrome shop :th_dizzy:
DSCI0084.jpg
 


It was 650 for the alternator, mounts the dogbones connect to, accelerator cable bracket, a bracket that is on the driver's strut tower(speed cable bracket perhaps?), Alternator bar/bracket, coil pack/left dogbone mount, and the right side bracket the right dogbone bolts to.
So I guess for all that price isnt too bad.:confused:
 
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