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2000 turbo regal v.notSnowflake *now with more flames*

~11.6 a hair up or down, E85, 18.5* of timing (pulled 1.5* after a tick of Kr was seen towards the end of the night

8 runs total.
back half average gain was 29.87 mph, best of 32.45 on the second to last run of the night (26 psi...ooops)
best 60' was 2.322 (keep in mind folks we arent pushing 1st/2nd gear...plus street tires

best runs are the last two.
2nd to last
rt .977
60' 2.595
330' 6.927
1/8th 9.712
1/8 mph 92.89
1000' 11.931
1/4 mile 13.747 @ 125.34 (back 1/8 4.047s and 32.45 mph gain)

last (24psi)
rt 3.064
60' 2.322
330' 6.253
1/8th 9.016
1/8 mph 92.04
1000' 11.261
1/4 mile 13.1 @ 123.57 (back 1//8 4.087 and 31.53 mph gain)
 


i found when the reluctor snapped off the bolts....the last run not long after the 2-3...we go fron 2200-2500 rpm converter slip to 4069 for the rest of the run till the throttle closes

of interest....we are slipping the tires at the 2-3...but the 2nd to last run (when we hit 26 psi)....it ALSO spun the tires at 100mph, up to 106 before dropping down again rofl

awesome
 
You do need the center of the reluctor cut out, the gear is the bearing surface on the 1" setup instead of the reluctor, if you don't cut it out, there will be too much load on the reluctor and it will want to shear off, I believe this is part of the issue with the 7/8" chain setups, the stack up is too thick and overloads the rivets. I got the 1" setup so never followed through with all the measurements on the 7/8 to prove/disprove.

i found the tsb on the chain switchover to the rocker links, might prove interesting to ya since yer of my ilk
http://60degreev6.com/Articles/Transmissions/4T60E/TSB17-4T60E.html
 
Yes, the rocker chain setups are much stronger than the older roller chain. I ran a 4t60 for a few years, before going to the 4t65, looked into way too many things on those transmissions trying to make it work, until finally giving it up and switching to the 65. I think the last summer I ran it I killed 2nd gear 3 times lol.

You do have the center of the reluctor machined out right? It's hard to tell from your pics. If not, that is probably why the bolts failed. If you do, I'd be looking for signs of impact from the bolts on the channel plate. There is no load on the reluctor, if properly machined, so I can't see the bolts failing, unless something is impacting them.
 
i found the tsb on the chain switchover to the rocker links, might prove interesting to ya since yer of my ilk
http://60degreev6.com/Articles/Transmissions/4T60E/TSB17-4T60E.html
Awesome link. Do you know if there is any way to tell the two different styles of gears from each other? I have a gear set from a transmission that came with a broken chain (PO loved burnouts a bit too much and sheared off the roll pin in the diff), and I want to make sure I get the correct version of chain. I'd rather not rely on what was originally in there.
 
Yes, the rocker chain setups are much stronger than the older roller chain. I ran a 4t60 for a few years, before going to the 4t65, looked into way too many things on those transmissions trying to make it work, until finally giving it up and switching to the 65. I think the last summer I ran it I killed 2nd gear 3 times lol.

You do have the center of the reluctor machined out right? It's hard to tell from your pics. If not, that is probably why the bolts failed. If you do, I'd be looking for signs of impact from the bolts on the channel plate. There is no load on the reluctor, if properly machined, so I can't see the bolts failing, unless something is impacting them.

yes it is a modified reluctor wheel, nothing was hitting....at least while the stator support wasnt being Tq'd over while under high load. Mr Norris is definitely right about the deflection....you could see most of the chain wear on the gears being at the case side.

Awesome link. Do you know if there is any way to tell the two different styles of gears from each other? I have a gear set from a transmission that came with a broken chain (PO loved burnouts a bit too much and sheared off the roll pin in the diff), and I want to make sure I get the correct version of chain. I'd rather not rely on what was originally in there.

round pin chains you can layout in a O and pushing inward at one point you can make the O a hard U. rocker links will only go so far before it turns it into a figure 8....the links are not able to flex in the "un-natural" direction as a round pin can.

iirc the 7/8ths are available in both while the 15/16ths was only round pin
that changeover only applies to the 4t60e, the 65e has the split phase chain
 


I have been wrong on other stuff as well. After tearing the reluctor off many times in all different configurations of bolts, pins etc. I welded one one. It was in the Regal that didn't make any real power and never suffered an issue.
 
lightweight 4t65e Input shaft (IS) reluctor wheel, with center thrust washer surface machined out.

20160826_195600.jpg
 
Haha that's awesome. Do you know what the weight difference is?

I shoulda tossed it on the small scale at work but at a guess about 25% less, but most of the weight is high MOI weight (far from axis).

im looking at changing the path to remove more, but the jig I made works great.


So did you machine the center out now, or was it already done?

it was machined out with the lightening holes.

edit: I should note that im modifying a spare reluctor, trying to make it so that I may just toss it into the trans once its apart
 
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sorry, there isn't.... for traction purposes we will be installing 6 additional front tires/suspension and 3 additional transmissions to handle the pah
 


Okay so spinning and hooking the tires at 26/28 PSI in 3rd gear at 97 miles an hour is not a good thing for the stator support, chain and input shaft.
The converter nose bushing that rides on the stator support OD is completely chewed up and walked out of the bore

I'm hoping I'm just really tired but it almost looks like there's a crack across the case towards the converter seal
 
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