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2000 turbo regal v.notSnowflake *now with more flames*

chainset is fine, threads on the drive sprocket are hosed, but it evidently only has 2 5mm threads at the bottom of a deep counterbore... from GM
two still have the threads, sorta intact, the one is completely pulled out

this ****s getting fixed permanently by new threads and tack welding the bolt heads to the wheel

thankfully the reluctor wheel managed to confine the bolts/shrapnel to the thrust washer (shredded, only found 2 pieces, rest probably in pan.)

thank god I insisted we pull/winch and push it, any more run time might have really killed ****, a bolt had punctured the channel plate at several passages.

I vacuumed out a lot of shrapnel. most along the bottom drain pall of the chain void.

we need an ISS sensor, channel plate and thrust washer, we should replace the channel plate sleeve as well as the converter nose bushing as it was twisted over it wore the outter to a taper and walked it out

channel plate sleeve took a good hit and it did chew the Teflon IS seals up a bit from the heat.

I think the best way to fix it is to ditch the pump body and extend the IS to a custom bearing support there....and then just use a crank/belt driven pump to feed the VB pressure

I now know why they designed the 4t80e with a much better chaincase/chain/support bearings
anyways, on to the carnage

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well after a bit of work, it looks like if i machine a custom ISS tone wheel to mount a narrow ball bearing into the package space of the channel plate sleeve boss.

to do it full balls out id machine the boss off and make a new sleeve with a larger OD that the VB to channel plate bolts (the little T30 torx buggers) threads into.

it would use the OEM thrust washer/face dimension/stack height, that area of the sprocket wouldnt have to change but they gear would have to be threaded for 6 bolts and the converter side thrust washers legs trimmed down to 1/8". dep on the bearing sizes i find i may just sink a new larger bolt circle pattern into the gear since it'll have a billet stator/bearing support.

working on my current stator support brace, and this recent failure have sown me that holding the stator support solid just wont cut it, the outboard side of the sprocket MUST have radial load capacity, beyond the slopy play of the IS in the channel plate sleeve and a thrust washer, neither handle radial load well, i guess the channel plate sleeve does...once the IS flexes over far enough for your GMR Armet 100 IS grinds against the channel plate sleeve....

the driven sprocket has what seems a decent amount of radial support through the bushingsof the 4th clutch hub and CV rollers/and sprocket rollers/input housing.

im thinking that an outboard radial bearing is the best solution with how sturdy the channel plate/vb are when bolted together (through to the new bearing support). with that side supported, the stator support/IS needle bearing will only be under radial load instead of a twisting axial load

/dumb
 
boom-no-mor
quick sketch of the end game

id bet that with the stator support flex and unsupported nose causing a half contact patch on the chains...that this with a 7/8ths chain would last a long time, since under high load your not only contacting 3/8ths inch of the chain face.

im looking to make this a simple mod even though it requires machining. basically it consists of the new channel plate sleeve "bottom", which the ID of the bearing will ride on. this area of the channel plate needs to be machined flush, and the remaining VB to CP threads drilled out. the new steel plate will have these threads, as well as the flat that the OEM channel plate sleeve key's into (for oil hole alignment for TCC clutch/converter fluid path).
so the channel plate sleeve is still an oem part.

the face will be at the right stack height for the OEM thrust washer and the OD sized for a light slip fit into the bearing.

bearing is a high load steel cage sealed unit with the seals yanked and the grease flushed, this area of the case is a huge hydraulic leak anyways so it'll be fine with flush lubrication since the bearing pocket will force the fluid through the bearing anytime its spinning. im still trying to find a narrower bearing as it would make things much more install friendly

the other half is a custom ISS tone wheel/bearing housing. this requires the sprocket be machined with a register step and a new spread bolt pattern that clamps the bearing OD race/tone wheel to the sprocket, with the register holding the load just 6-8 bolts should be required as all the load is radial

bam, now much like the 4t80e, the IS/sprocket is supported by 2 bearings, no more chain/sprocket misalignment (shades of timing chains....) causing wear/tear.

the driven sprocket does seem to be well supported, only way to improve things there would be to delete 4th, and im doing all this **** just to keep 4th

whats the point of a badass 700+whp racecar if you cant hit 170 in the 1/2?

 


Finished the nearly final drawing for the sprocket bearing housing/ISS tone wheel.
I've got to bring in my valve body to put on the CMM to make sure I have the exact locations 4 the bolt threads for the center bearing support / channel plate sleeve retainer/thrust washer face.

It's pretty sweet
 


for now im happy that this "big" bearing will handle more radial load than this thing should ever produce.

I should call up matt, I already emailed dave
 


I'm making at least one for me.
With all the operations and everything this is shaping up to be one of the expensive ones.
it's only a couple of Parts but the Machining on the channel plate is something that is annoying foremost
 
are you 35/35 (3.29) or 37/33?

id have to do an exchange thing with the drive sprockets as they need to have a larger 8 bolt pattern and a register for the the sprocket bearing/tone wheel retainer
 
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