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JDrach's 98 Daytona - Snappin chains 4 days

Re: JDrach's 98 Daytona- XP'd

490 at the crank should be like ~400 at the wheels...

I looked it up on CGPs cam list. If he made 490whp he has the HIGHEST HP on a M90 build.
 


Re: JDrach's 98 Daytona- XP'd

Russosaur said:
On Facebook the guy said like 490 crank and like 380 something wheel which makes no sense. He got super defensive over it too.
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2 weeks late, but the car is legit. It made 389whp, 490bhp sounds correct to me? He found it funny everyone was trying to prove him wrong and tell him it wasn't possible... when his dyno sheets prove it LOL
 
Re: JDrach's 98 Daytona- XP'd

Euro said:
2 weeks late, but the car is legit. It made 389whp, 490bhp sounds correct to me? He found it funny everyone was trying to prove him wrong and tell him it wasn't possible... when his dyno sheets prove it LOL
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Who goes off of bhp?
 
Re: JDrach's 98 Daytona- XP'd

Euro said:
2 weeks late, but the car is legit. It made 389whp, 490bhp sounds correct to me? He found it funny everyone was trying to prove him wrong and tell him it wasn't possible... when his dyno sheets prove it LOL
Click to expand...

Musta been one of them pick your numbers dyno's LOLLLLLL

His sig over on thechicagogarage.com used to say 380 or 390 hp but someone decided to slap 490 on it for the Chicago Auto show? I don't know but seems like some snowflake math to me!

Edit if it makes 389whp then sure I don't doubt that but don't be the tool to go and claim welp it must make 490 hp. Let the dyno chart speak for itself!

Mine makes 330whp that absolutely positively must mean it makes like 430bhp? LOL that's nonsense!
 


Re: JDrach's 98 Daytona- XP'd

490 to 380? Wtf. I have about 460-470 crank and 410-415hp

Bad ass car though. Love them trapezoid loudmouth tips. I had those on my GP.
 
Re: JDrach's 98 Daytona- XP'd

Trying to get a trans build done. Full OEM rebuild, thinking of throwing an input shaft, 7/8 chain, and maybe a higher stall converter at it? What benefits would i see with the converter exactly. I'm just trying to decide on what i NEED to hold up with what I have done to my car now and possibly e85. As of now the trans works just fine. * knock on wood*. Any input up for discussion would be great.
 
Re: JDrach's 98 Daytona- XP'd

With the higher stall converter you get higher into the power band before the transmission "engages." If you don't do a 7\8" chain, at least put in GXP hardened chains, along with an 03+ 4th shaft, input\3rd ratcheting sprag (along with the drum), and of course the shift kit.
 
Re: JDrach's 98 Daytona- XP'd

So they pretty much are needed for a launch? A higher stall TC? But yea, as far as hard parts it would be input shaft and chain. as well as a hardened 4th.
 


Re: JDrach's 98 Daytona- XP'd

If you are rebuilding the transmission yourself, make sure you stack the clutches tighter than stock. You can also get some beefed up clutch sets for ~$30 for TEP. AA higher stall does help the launch a lot. I used an N\A converter, which put my stall a little over 2800, and is 8 pounds lighter. No matter which way you go you will most likely have to elongate the holes a bit (1\8th inch or so) on your fly wheel. Damn near all of the aftermarket converters (and stock N\A) are 245mm whereas the stock L67 is 258mm.
 
Re: JDrach's 98 Daytona- XP'd

I wouldn't be doing it myself, was just wondering what the benefit would be of a higher stall converter.
 
Re: JDrach's 98 Daytona- XP'd

Correct me if I'm wrong, but a Stall Converter is when the transmission engages when doing a dig, like at the track.

Let's say you went with a 3,000 Stall. That means, if you didn't raise your RPM to 3,000 before "slamming" the pedal from a dig, your car would be kinda sluggish. Whatever your Stall is at - is where you need to raise your RPM too to maximize your launch. Unsure how you determine what RPM Stall you would need compared to what power you're making, though. I've just heard the GT Stall Converter is good and is also lighter.
 
Re: JDrach's 98 Daytona- XP'd

The L36 converter is smaller and a higher stall.. PLUS it goes well with the L36 flex plate which is stronger...
 


Re: JDrach's 98 Daytona- XP'd

hold your brakes hard, then give it gas, enough to where the cars starting to move, look at the tach, thats your stall speed.

higher stall speed puts the engines rpm's higher so when you launch it its already in the the engines sweet spot for the starting of the real HP and TQ. most cams dont start to make power till 2500 rpm.

theres no tuning for this.
 
Re: JDrach's 98 Daytona- XP'd

Iceman6669 said:
The L36 converter is smaller and a higher stall.. PLUS it goes well with the L36 flex plate which is stronger...
Click to expand...

The reason I know this, is because Max used to never shut up about his GT Stall Converter and how it dramatically changed his car - in a good way. Lol.
 
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