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What will i run?

Spring blockers don't help that much at your power level...even though they probably wouldn't HURT anything.

I'd suggest driving around the water box, removing the headlight...setting the tire pressure correctly around 25-28psi.

I did 13.6x at 101.whatever with a 3.4"/1.84 rockers/exhaust/DHP and a 1.8~ 60 foot. Had other babbles like poly mounts, suspension work, shift kit, intake, ported GenIII...yadayada if I remember right. It's doable...just don't expect miracles the first time out. Ever.
 


Nick..I've seen his car, it has weight transfer...they'll help.

Shayne, Pretend I know what I'm talking about on the ABS .... pull one. TC button is a worthless push of a button. HPT only allows you to remove about half of TM based on the 640, DHP allows you something like 1279. Pulling one sensor wire so it can't know what is going on....priceless cause it's free YO!
 
BillBoost37 said:
Nick..I've seen his car, it has weight transfer...they'll help.

Shayne, Pretend I know what I'm talking about on the ABS .... pull one. TC button is a worthless push of a button. HPT only allows you to remove about half of TM based on the 640, DHP allows you something like 1279. Pulling one sensor wire so it can't know what is going on....priceless cause it's free YO!
Click to expand...

Alright perfect. Yea struts is next on my list. Ive lowered it some and the new springs are a bit stiffer so that should help. Tune seems to be going good, I have my afr pretty much locked at 10.8-12 but i keep getting mixed values every run. Like 1 pull my afr will be 12:1 in one block then next pull it will be 10:1 so it averages 11 but im seeing spikes. Think ima go for a run and even out my fuel trims cus those have been thrown off do to messing around with my maf table then see where my afr table lies. I know for 1 thing, car is def running better than befor.

What should i do with my sub 7000 hz table? Should i just smooth it with from 7000 down?
 
Eons ago (2001-2002 maybe) I went 13.8's with Ghetto intake, 3.4" and ubend removed... stock pcm and everything else.
2.0x 60 foots... then did SLP Headers and a pully drop and was 13.2's, still on a stock pcm.

For the rear, just cable mod it. Cheap and easy to do.

So i'd say its possible to 13's even on the 3.6 if your tune is good and launch is down.. and your trans shifts aren't sloppy.

Just let to light go green, and take off when you feel like it. Don't rush it.
 
jdredd said:
Eons ago (2001-2002 maybe) I went 13.8's with Ghetto intake, 3.4" and ubend removed... stock pcm and everything else.
2.0x 60 foots... then did SLP Headers and a pully drop and was 13.2's, still on a stock pcm.

For the rear, just cable mod it. Cheap and easy to do.

So i'd say its possible to 13's even on the 3.6 if your tune is good and launch is down.. and your trans shifts aren't sloppy.

Just let to light go green, and take off when you feel like it. Don't rush it.
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Jesus how bad were you knocking to drop under a 3.4 with just headers?
 
Ginseng said:
Jesus how bad were you knocking to drop under a 3.4 with just headers?
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I had a little knock until i removed the SLP "hi-flo" cat.. then it was down to 0kr.

This was before tuners were available. So I just went with "more boost = better times right?"
So just had an autotap for scanning.

I didn't have a wideband either, so only could go off regular old o2 values, but by those it appeared "rich" so that
probably kept it alive some.

Went near 190k miles on that engine before scraping the car due to rusting away.

Not saying what I did was the best/smartest thing.. was 12-13 years ago.. but was doable. The stock PCM with low
timing and low revs is what probably really kept me alive.
 


Best 60' I managed was a 2.09x with 22psi up front, stock trans

It really is seat time and throttle control that help the most.


Though it did feel really good pulling lengths on this twin turbo c5 that kept getting lined up with me, until the 1000ft mark or so, then I might as well have been backing up
 
My TL ran 14.4 @ 98 and put about a gagillion lengths on you.
It's a lot tougher when you actually get to the track to put up those times everyone is always claiming.
 
We also launched at what 60-70. Not to mention you started 1/2 second befor me. Car also now has the 3.6 and is running 100x better. Wont really know till i take it to the track.
 
Ginseng said:
We also launched at what 60-70. Not to mention you started 1/2 second befor me. Car also now has the 3.6 and is running 100x better. Wont really know till i take it to the track.
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Was a 40 roll

Ginseng said:
Like 1 pull my afr will be 12:1 in one block then next pull it will be 10:1
Click to expand...

You really need to get that in check.
Hows your timing? I remember we couldn't pull a lot out of it.

My Forester trapped 101, if you wanna see how you stack up just let me know when you're in the area!
 
SnowFlake said:
Was a 40 roll



You really need to get that in check.
Hows your timing? I remember we couldn't pull a lot out of it.

My Forester trapped 101, if you wanna see how you stack up just let me know when you're in the area!
Click to expand...

Yea im workin on it. Its smoothed out a little more. On pulls my wideband will read 14.6:1 until a shift and then it will jump to like 12.2 then back down.
 


Check your tune in the TM area and make sure it's not adjusting your AFR for shifts. Also do a lot of logging/tuning. When you do get your LT's solid .. you'll notice your LT's stay the same each time you go wot.
 
BillBoost37 said:
Check your tune in the TM area and make sure it's not adjusting your AFR for shifts. Also do a lot of logging/tuning. When you do get your LT's solid .. you'll notice your LT's stay the same each time you go wot.
Click to expand...

LTFT are pretty much all within .05 with enrichment at 100% but when i put it at 30% they are all over the place. Ive just been adjusting blocks that are high by like 1.02 and blocks that are low by .98. But if i roll into the throttle afr will be pretty much even across the board but if i goose it it will go lean or rich or do w/e the **** it wants.

Will pulling timing in certain blocks have any affect on that? Like should they be smooth threw the rpms like not jumping 14,15,14. but instead just 14,14,14 if that makes sense.
 
Also noticed on some runs im not getting reading in some wb vs maf hz when i roll into the throttle a few times from 0-100.

Is it possible my pump is having hickups hense the issues?
 
If your pump was 'having hiccups' the fuel pressure would drop and it would feel like the car stopped all together.
I really can't follow what you're doing to the tune so I'm not sure how to guide you.
As far as what you're going to run... if you go I'm thinking 14.6 @ 94.
 
SnowFlake said:
If your pump was 'having hiccups' the fuel pressure would drop and it would feel like the car stopped all together.
I really can't follow what you're doing to the tune so I'm not sure how to guide you.
As far as what you're going to run... if you go I'm thinking 14.6 @ 94.
Click to expand...


Think i figured out my issue. Cot was enabled.
 


I think you'll be faster then that. I ran a 14.8 with a 2.2 60' being basically stock.


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