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Clunk...Clunk...Is driving me nuts!!!

Burgundyman

Burgundyman

New member
All I keep hearing is a clunking noise when coming to a stop or when accelerating from a stopping position. It seems that this noise is felt closer to the firewall along floor board, which I can feel when sitting on the passenger side...

I have replaced the several parts on the front end as part of routine maintenance...

1. Complete strut and spring installation with new strut mounts (AC DELCO)
2. New inner and outer tie rods (AC DELCO)
3. New Micheline primacy MXV4 tires
4. Front end alignment
5. New front hubs (Timken/Wheel Bearing/Hub)
6. Complete brake replacement (pads and rotor)
7. New motor mount (AC delco)
8. New Dog Bones

The control arm assembly, sway bar+ bushings,etc... are still original...

Any advice is greatly appreciated. I had my mechanic look at it and he could not figure where noise was coming from.
 


Sway bar links always clunk like crazy on turns after like 80k. But since you're saying it's stop/go it's either lower motor mounts or control arm bushings.
Or in the off chance it could be something I have mentioned that's not tight, like a bolt came loose or something. It has happened.
 
Could be the control arms need changed. The bushings get worn and clunk and the ball joints clunk while turning.
 
sway bars do clunk, the cap bushings also wear out.

i changed every thing in my front end chasing a clunk. (everything i changed was bad) last thing i changed was the lca's, made it silent.
 
Could also look at sway bar brackets, after control arms, and sb ends. I've seen the bracket bolts break.

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The lower engine mount was replaced. We tightened every bolt in the general area. I was hesitant to replace control arm but will if this will help. Not sure about sway bar and bushings either???
 


Where is the best place to get lower control arm assemblies...GM is pricy!

Scottydoggs said:
sway bars do clunk, the cap bushings also wear out.

i changed every thing in my front end chasing a clunk. (everything i changed was bad) last thing i changed was the lca's, made it silent.
Click to expand...
 
blown sway bushing, this is a year old dorman bushing, came with the new solid sway bar. shot in less then a year, my current clunk.

dormanswaybushingfail_zps587e5a37.jpg
 
rockauto sell new lca's for about 40 a side for the dorman lca's . the moogs are 15 to 20 more a side, but have grease able ball joints.

i got mine off partsgeek for 42 a side and under a 100 for everything shipped.

do not buy them local, they will rape you. order on line. its worth the wait.
 
if its the stock hollow crap sure. the doman bar if you search ebay hard enough can be found for 70 to a 100 bucks. local about 120.

dont use their sway bushing tho, get some polly bushing for it, napa sells them. the end links are holding up still that came with the new bar.

if the end if the bar is cracked it will also clunk, when you hit the brakes, the nose dives, sway bar is working, then you floor it, the front end lifts some, then it can clunk again. hitting bumps will make it clunk too.

the end links. the hollow bar snaps where it gets thin. and if the end links bushings are blown out they can also clunk.

endlinksfailing_zpsca98c718.jpg
 


You mean the stock GM sway bar is hollow?...GM bushings are poor design too?? Then I definitely need to replace them.


Scottydoggs said:
if its the stock hollow crap sure. the doman bar if you search ebay hard enough can be found for 70 to a 100 bucks. local about 120.

dont use their sway bushing tho, get some polly bushing for it, napa sells them. the end links are holding up still that came with the new bar.

if the end if the bar is cracked it will also clunk, when you hit the brakes, the nose dives, sway bar is working, then you floor it, the front end lifts some, then it can clunk again. hitting bumps will make it clunk too.

the end links. the hollow bar snaps where it gets thin. and if the end links bushings are blown out they can also clunk.

endlinksfailing_zpsca98c718.jpg
Click to expand...
 
the gm bushing im sure are better then the dorman bar bushing. but they all wear out sooner or later. napa also sells polly end links, or look them up on line.

stock bar is hollow, the dorman bar is solid.

this is the end of the dorman bar, its thick and heavy. the stock end is thinner.

swayend.jpg
 
if you have jack stands yes it is. it helps to drop the back of the sub frame a few inches due to how close the brake lines are to the rear cap bolt on the drivers side. i found it better to not damage the lines by jamming a socket or a wrench through the lines.

to drop the sub frame once its on jack stands, put a jack dead center of the low part of the rear of the frame, then with a breaker bar and a 18 mm socket break the 2 bolts free on each side of the frame back, back them out like 2 inches, then lower the frame with the jack. dont hang the frame on the bolts, let the jack hold the weight.

this will give you the extra room to work in. takes no time really to do.

oh if your garage is a 2 car it will be easier to change, one car it will be tight to slide in at odd angle. watch out for the harness back there taking the old out and the new in.
 
Good pics that should help you a lot... also on bracket bushings i use marine grease. And white lithium on the end links. Get it fixed and tell your mechanic you fixed it your self :-)

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its also said that wrapping the bar with Teflon tape where the bushing lives on the bar will keep the pollys from squeaking. im trying this when i change mine. cause they look worse now in sure lol
 
you can alleviate all that by just getting energy suspension sway bar bushings w \housings they come with grease fittings.
 
where are the two sub frame bolts located?

Scottydoggs said:
if you have jack stands yes it is. it helps to drop the back of the sub frame a few inches due to how close the brake lines are to the rear cap bolt on the drivers side. i found it better to not damage the lines by jamming a socket or a wrench through the lines.

to drop the sub frame once its on jack stands, put a jack dead center of the low part of the rear of the frame, then with a breaker bar and a 18 mm socket break the 2 bolts free on each side of the frame back, back them out like 2 inches, then lower the frame with the jack. dont hang the frame on the bolts, let the jack hold the weight.

this will give you the extra room to work in. takes no time really to do.

oh if your garage is a 2 car it will be easier to change, one car it will be tight to slide in at odd angle. watch out for the harness back there taking the old out and the new in.
Click to expand...
 
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