• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Clunk...Clunk...Is driving me nuts!!!

the jack in this pic is on the bolt. the cup on the jack fits perfectly for a safe jack location.

jacklocation_zps94452ccd.jpg
 


No, use the jack to hold up the subframe and back the bolts out. Then lower the jack but keep the jack supporting the subframe, I personally like to lower the subframe onto jack stands just in case.

Sent from A Galaxy Far Far Away........
 
you need to put the car on jack stands first, via the rockers. hope they aint rotted out.

then put the floor jack or bottle jack under the rear of the frame.


this is a AL frame but its the same shape. see the sway bar mounted to it, (right side of pic thats the rear) in front of the sway bar is a metal part of the frame, put the jack under that part, then back the bolts out. then lower the jack some.
alumsub3.jpg
 


Looks like brake lines need to be loosened too. Is there a write-up for this as I am sure to miss something along the way and mess my car up...you guys have been very helpful.

Scottydoggs said:
you need to put the car on jack stands first, via the rockers. hope they aint rotted out.

then put the floor jack or bottle jack under the rear of the frame.


this is a AL frame but its the same shape. see the sway bar mounted to it, (right side of pic thats the rear) in front of the sway bar is a metal part of the frame, put the jack under that part, then back the bolts out. then lower the jack some.
alumsub3.jpg
Click to expand...
 
I got to all my bolts with a regular 13mm wrench and/o a socket with a swivel adapter and a extention. The only need to drop the subframe a inch or two is to install a sway bar. But for bushings you should be able too get them without dropping the frame. Also there is no need to mess with brake lines.
 
It's a super simple job.

Get it in the air supported on the rockers or the frame that runs along the floorboard, on jack stands. Remove both front tires. Then use that same jack and put it on the rear bar of the sub frame and lift it about a half inch so a little load is on the jack. Loosen the two rear 18mm bolts about two inches down, and lower the jack to that point but leave the weight on the jack. Then remove both sway bar links, and brackets with simple hand tools and replace the parts, and reinstall in reverse.
 
no need to mess with the brake lines at all, lowing the frame clears them. you could do it with out dropping the frame but why take a chance of damaging a 10 plus year old rusty brake line or 2 or 3?
 
Just jack up the car with jack stands and take the front tires off and then remove both the endlinks and swaybar brackets. Disconnect the passenger tie rod and wiggle the sway bar out CAREFULLY on the passenger side. You may not have to disconnect the outer tie rod but I did for more clearance. I did it without lowering the sub frame on my "97 2 years ago and didn't damage any of the lines simply because I took my time. Scottydoggs instructions are the way it's really supposed to be done but I went a different way.
 


I decided that I will also replace the complete lower control arm assembly. Will this complicate the process?...The new lower control arm comes with a ball joint pressed into place. I am going to replace left and right hand sides.
 
I heard removing the knuckle can be tedious. I hope not. The new control arms comes with a ball joint pressed into place. I decided to inspect the sway bar and not replace it unless it shows damages. I know that there are no rust issues with the under carriage as it is a southern car and always garage kept.

dsmuts said:
That's the way to do it. Pretty easy install
Click to expand...
 
Have fun with the torx bit on the forward LCA bolt. That ***** took alo of force when they freeze in the rubber bushing.
 


I did too lol that ****ing bolt was so frozen my buddy had to help out by prying on with a flat head and hammer down while I used the impact. ...bad ****ing day but I got it done
 
I have a snap-on torx bit...Hopefully it holds up...I wonder if a pickle fork is needed or will a pry bar be sufficient?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top