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Pressure Control Solenoid(EPC), TCC, 4th Clutch Hub Replacement in the Vehicle.



That would make sense. I was planning on doing a trans service and shift kit, I'd notice it then.

Alright so I've got everything back together, and fluids topped up. I couldn't take it for a test drive because both my parent's vehicles are behind me in the driveway. So what I did was I kept it on jack stands, mashed the parking brake, turned off traction control, and accelerated slowly in drive. That way if there's not enough fluid in a certain area of the trans yet, it won't slip since there's hardly any strain with no car to move. I took it up to 50 mph, and it went through all gears, and I'm assuming the TCC locked but I can't know for sure without driving it. I tried counting but it went up so fast, and I think 3rd gear and lockup happened at nearly the same time. Right when it did the speed went way up from there. After that the trans fluid level dropped quite a bit, so I topped it off again. I'll test drive it tomorrow.
 
Well for the first time, it was annoying making sure every single piece went in exactly as it's supposed to. If I did it again, I could do it flawlessly. But for the first time with just internet guidance, it wasn't bad. I went pretty fast getting everything taken apart up until the side cover was off, then I took my time. The annoying part about it is getting the channel plate back on and the gaskets staying in place and the clutches staying there, which they will as long as you don't pull back at all. I learned that the hard way, I missed the bolt I used to hold the gasket, so I pulled back a tiny bit, and all the clutches fell onto my drain pan. Luckily I have one of these style drain pans so they didn't get lost in a ton of fluid(below) But really not bad. Definately worth it, since I won't have to take it to a shop that will charge upwards of $1,000, and will probably recommend a full rebuild. 4t65e's can go a long time without a rebuild, as long as the pcs doesn't cause the trans to commit suicide and burn the clutches up, and max adapt killing the 4th clutch hub splines. My friend's 4t80e's TQ converter o-rings went bad, and at 70k miles they said "while were here we might as well do a full rebuild" $2,200 later. It would be harder to do on his car though. Still do-able.


blitz-11838-400.jpg
 


I was in the same boat, although I hadn't noticed that GM suggested using pins to hold the gaskets. So I contended with gaskets slipping as well. Then I thought about it and cut some bolt heads off to have pins. Makes it a lot easier to have the gaskets covered. And yes.. being on it's side the clutches are magically sitting there until you get the pieces back on.
 
I went for the first test drive, and it shifts great. Like new really, exactly what I wanted. I noticed a slight difference in the 1-3 shifts, more firm. But the torque converter lockup was perfect. Before it would take at least 3 full seconds to fully lock (hot or cold) You could see the rpm's slowly drop, way too slow. Now it's almost instant like it's supposed to be, and 4th gear engages nice and firm as well. I'm very happy with the results, the shift kit and trans cooler just wasn't enough.(because it was really just a cover-up fix) The pcs replacement was like night and day to someone like me who really pays attention to how the trans performs. There's nothing like just having the correct pressure, huh? I had let off right after 4h engaged because the speed limit was 45, but it shows the shifts just fine.


Here's what it was like before and after the shift kit and the pcs. 1-2 shift only.
 
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Congrats! Looks great man, glad you got it fixed!

Bill do you think he should unhook his battery to reset tap values and allow it to relearn pressures, or leave it be since he likes the snappy shifts?
 
I originally meant to do that. I may still though. I like the shifts the way they are, but that's mainly because that's how it's supposed to be. The transgo shift kit does add on top of that to make them a little more firm as well, but they don't have to be quite as firm as they were in the video, the 1-2 was felt the most. As long as it's shifting how it should, I'm happy, so I may unhook the battery for an hour or so to make sure everything is adapted. I don't think it will be that much different.
 
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My only concern is Wot shifts.
If the adapt values are already high because of the weak shifts it had before then the pressures may be to high now and could result in damage.
 
hmm. I'll unhook it now. I don't care one way or another, if it can prevent things like that then it's a no-brainer.
 
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After un-hooking it for the night, the shifts are much more normal, almost like they were before on short drives. TQ converter lockup still seems healthier. The real test is a long drive to see if it stays shifting well. That was where I was really having problems. That may be a while since I only have school to go to for the most part. But I'll let you guys know. Here's a video on how I re-assembled it, maybe for those wondering how involved it is.

 
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I don't usually unhook, I just let the adapt learn. It'll learn changes over time. Although if his shifts are too snappy, yeah clear the adaptive shifts and let it relearn.

I've found some interesting stuff doing swaps etc. Some are super harsh after being unhooked and some are super soft. Then they adapt and become reasonable.
 
I am about to do my PCS this weekend. Did you install the rest of the transgo kit when you did this? If you did, did you take any pics o how to do that?
 


jasonderricko said:
I am about to do my PCS this weekend. Did you install the rest of the transgo kit when you did this? If you did, did you take any pics o how to do that?
Click to expand...

Yes I did, look back at post #67 and #73 on page 4, I posted a few pictures as well as asked how to get it off lol.
 
The seal that fixes 3rd can't be installed unless the trans is being rebuilt. But the rest of the springs can be installed. I will say from personal experience that the Superior K4t65e shift correction kit is the best kit I've ever used! You have to do work in the valvebody but it comes with every tool and part neccesary and is WELL worth the trouble. I will never install a transmission without one
 
02NavyBlue said:
Yes I did, look back at post #67 and #73 on page 4, I posted a few pictures as well as asked how to get it off lol.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I saw that, I should have been more clear. I can tell what you did once you got to it, I am trying to estimate how much work it was to get it off though. Did you just have to remove the bolts that twizted painted yellow, and it comes off as one piece? I want to have a view of the accumulator like you show at 4:18 in your vid, but I don't want to pull apart any more than I have to.

I basically want to change the PCS, but while I'm in there throw in what's left (as long as it's easy, lol) of the transgo kit that I bought. I put in the pan portion already. I don't want to change the shafts or anything like that. I also don't want to risk pulling something apart that I can't get back together. I only have the one car, so if I break/loose some small parts while I'm in there I'm kinda screwed.

I want to do the boost valve and pressure regulator spring that are in the kit as well, and can't figure out if I need to remove the valve body to do it. If it turns out that I can do the boost valve and pressure regulator spring without removing the boost valve, and doing the the 4th accumulator is a bigger job than I planned I may just skip that part.

Thanks for the video btw. It's really helpful




 
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