• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

ZZP XPZ Build



Ok so i need a lil bit of help here. I have 4 layer cometic MLS Head Gasket .052 thickness/3.84 bore, CNC Ported Heads, stock valves if it matters, 105 springs for exhaust, 130 springs for intake, XPZ cam. ZZP said use the 7.05 pushrods for exhaust and 7.10 pushrods for intake.

I put my pushrod length checker tool from Comp Cams in to get the exact length, which has no length numbers on the side, in the intake side and and adjusted it, took it back out and put it up next to the 7.10 pushrod and just judging by eye, they look the same length.

Do the lengths of pushrods sound right for the setup im running?
 
Yes decided to still go with them. They sealed fine it looks like. Left them in there sealed up carboard things they are in till i was ready to slap some copper spray on them and put em on. Gonna talk to Reptile bout setting up a time and date to have him tune my car this up and coming spring. gotta few questions again:

1) with the Gen V. the nipple on the back, i run a hose from that to a drilled fitting that goes between the butterfly and MAF. Correct?

2) The evap solenoid. I can just cut a metal plate and block that off right?

I am in the process of making a FWI. Picked up three inch PVC pipe. Should it have been four inch? Will post Photos of that as it gets done.

I decided to scrap the whole JP Double Roller even though i got the crank gear chamfered like stock and sell it. I ordered a Rollmaster Double Roller, Gen V IC Bolts, L32 Garlock revised S2/S3 S/C gasket, S/C oil, 875 and 680 belts, MPS hub, Timing Cover gasket, 3 inch DP gasket to totally finish off this build.

Decided to paint the Gen V red and black. 5 dollars rattle buckets are better than spendin 125 to get it finished polish. Looks sexy ill post pics later.

Forgot to get a 180* T-Stat, Gen V turndown, and new coil packs since mine are cracked(beats me how). But stock coil packs not the BORG or MSD junk ones.
 


Open Cone intake...like-a so...

002.jpg
 
01GTP: were u referring that post to the hole FWI thing?

Bluegtp91: U dont like the idea of a FWI? I like your hole car, especially the engine bay. But no so much the open cone
 


bluegtp91 said:
If your going IC or some crazy high boost levels...open cone or nothing. Seriously.
Click to expand...

As much as i'd hate to admit I was wrong haha, FWI is an airflow killer. Went ahead and droped it back to just a small 40* elbow, straight pipe & filter and got loads more flow..

Before
HPIM3830.jpg

You can see how far down the filter was before

HPIM3800.jpg


Most likely pick up a 4" pipe sometime down the road
HPIM3951.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thats what i have right but instead a 45* with a tube then filter. Didnt know that FWI's have less airflow but it does make sense why.
 
^^Yeah...not to rain on your parade but what is that thing...2 1/2"??

Just bolt your filter to the TB and be done dude...TRUST ME...it'll take 5 minutes tops.
 


open cone is the best option for a car that is intercooled or on small pullies. regardless of the warmer air being sucked in youll make more power. flow > air temp unless youre at a 3.4 setup.
 
Compared to the 4" pipe and just a 4" inlet filter it does look dinky.. But I assure you it is a 3" pipe haha

Just measured. Inside diameter is 3" (some change)
 
Picked up some Grade 8 bolts from Menards tonight for the rockers. Got em seated properly and tightened down.
 
bbptech said:
01GTP: were u referring that post to the hole FWI thing?

Bluegtp91: U dont like the idea of a FWI? I like your hole car, especially the engine bay. But no so much the open cone
Click to expand...

Yeah just run open cone. FWI is more restrictive.
Here is mine
utf-8BSU1HMDAwMjAtMjAwOTEwMTEtMTUzN.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top