• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

ZZP headers ordered

Yes.

You clean and re-use both bolts and gaskets.

If you want, just buy OEM replacements...but it isn't needed unless the ones you remove are trash. They are metal.
 


Ryan99639 said:
ok I just got them in and they look great awesome quality I'm impressed so far I'll post some good pics, but they didn't come with new header bolts or header gaskets, I'm only assuming that I'm not supposed to re-use eather? if not what brands u guys recomend for gaskets etc?
Click to expand...

If I didn't cover it in my install thread, LMK and I'll drop it in. I always reuse the gaskets and bolts.
 
You won't need new bolts if your old nuts come off the studs. If they don't, your car looks like this for 3 days till the ARP bolts show up. Also doing 304 ZZP headers.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1362167786.710727.jpg
 
ya I'm gonna order those arp ones and felpro gaskets from zzp just to be on the safe side lol how's the install so far
 
Not bad, my old DP was welded in, that was kind of a ***** to get out. Of course that was the last thing out so we had to jack up the car and hit it with the sawzall.
 


Nope, get the DP and tranny dipstick out of the way and it slid on like butter. Getting the ZZP ones on was 10x easier than unbolting all the rusty stock crap.
 
ya I didn't even think about that lol I'm prolly gonna use some pb blaster and let it sit a couple nights before trying to take it off mine look all rusty
 
Ryan99639 said:
ya I didn't even think about that lol I'm prolly gonna use some pb blaster and let it sit a couple nights before trying to take it off mine look all rusty
Click to expand...

yeah i did the fronts with minimal pb blaster, let the rear that i couldnt get off and the dp bolts sit overnight. helped a ton.
 
Having done tons of these.. You shouldn't need any penetrating oil. The bolts are in the head and get heated whenever the car if up to temp. therefore there's no rust on the threads of them in the block. Only troublesome ones would be downpipe area.
 


PS, if you wanted Fel Pro gaskets, I bet you can get them cheaper locally than with shipping and you can get SS bolts at any hardware store.

Just sayin
 
ok so im halfway through the install and everything is going great i have taken off both manifolds, the front header is on and the stock dp is off. i dropped the subframe pretty far down and i can not get the new zzp header up into the area it needs to be in, i have the motor mounts off and subfrome dropped but still do not have enough clearance. that transmission dipstick tube isnt making the problem any better eather. so any advice??? im waiting for my gaskets and ARP bolts to come in the mail so i have some time to figure this out .
 
I never dropped any subframe, I used ratchets and pulled the motor forward and put them in from the top.
 


y6e3ute7.jpg

You can see my down pipe in this pic.
 
ok maby ill have to give that a try, ive been following the header install instructions link that someone posted on the first page of this thread and its all been going good until this part
 
Yeah the only reason I had to jack the car up was to cut my old welded in down pipe. Once you get the old stock stuff out, put the backs on, don't tighten. Then push the motor back and put the fronts on, then center the motor and put 1 dog bone in and tighten everything up.
Then put the rest back together.
 
hmm I'll have to try that then I'm assuming the motor has to be pulled pretty far forward to fit it through the top?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top