• Failure to follow these rules may result in your threads being locked, deleted, or moved. Depending on the severity of your actions, or frequency of your actions, your user account could be suspended or banned. These rules are to help protect both buyer and seller.


    1. CONSOLIDATE all of your for sale items into ONE thread only. This means there will be NO making multiple sales threads for different items regardless if the parts are related or not.

    2. PRICE IS REQUIRED. We do not permit ads without an asking price for each item. "Best Offer" is not an allowable substitute for posting a price. You may ask for $1 but a price must be listed regardless. If a price is not listed with in the first 24 hours of making your sale thread IT WILL BE LOCKED or DELETED. Once a price is listed a bidding war is not permitted. If the seller gets an offer that meets his asking price, the seller should honor the asking price and sell for that amount.

    3. EBAY LINKS AND OTHER LINKS. We allow links to ebay ads, but you MUST have a buy-it-now price posted, or an asking price to stop the auction in your ad here (Not just in the link). If it is from another site or from here, do not use a link but post the full text instead with pictures if you have them listed. If a BIN price is not posted, then your thread will be DELETED.

    4. CITY / STATE are required info for each ad. Information must be posted in the first post of thread, NO EXCEPTIONS. Buyers and sellers reserve the rights to privately ask for full contact information on any purchase or sale. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    5. NO TWO PARTY SALES. This means no more "I'm selling for a friend" posts and will be deleted immediately with no notice. Seller assumes all responsibility of anything they post for sale.

    6. NO FEELER THREADS. You are either selling it or you aren’t selling it.

    7. POST COUNT AND/OR TIME LIMIT. We are requesting that you spend some time with us before you start a For Sale thread. A pre-determined minimum number of posts will be required or 1 year since creating the account + an intro thread (just so we know you aren’t the Prince of Africa). Any for sale thread posted out of the For Sale section to circumvent the rules will result in being deleted. Those who do meet the criteria and post outside the section will have their thread moved, constant violation of this will result in an infraction.

    8. NO BUMPING OR TT’ing YOUR THREAD MORE THAN ONCE IN 48 HOURS. Don’t worry your thread will still be a bold read until a user reads it and if people are really interested they will let you know. Post warning will be issued if in violation and on the 3rd warning, the thread will just be locked.

    9. NO THREAD DUMPING OR I DON’T LIKE YOUR PRICE. Don’t post in a person’s thread just to tell them they are too high, either move along and say nothing or throw an offer to them. The person can sell it at whatever price they think someone is willing to pay. Offenders will be issued a warning, if it is a constant issue then an infraction will be issued.

    10. KEEP YOUR THREAD UP TO DATE. This is really for your benefit, so you don’t get 10 PMs asking if you still have it when you already sold it.

    11. NO WEAPONS. As Admins we have determined that no weapons will be allowed to be sold, this includes knives, guns and anything else deemed a weapon (even if its a wall hanger only). We ask that if you want to sell these items you seek out the appropriate websites elsewhere to do so.

    12. Pictures are REQUIRED. Pictures of all items for sale. This is to help BOTH seller and buyer. As a seller it is MUCH easier to sell something if you have pictures of it. As a buyer you feel better seeing exactly what you are buying. Pictures should contain the item/s for sale and a sign of some kind that has your username on it. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    FRAUD & RISK. Buy and Sell at your own risk. Grand Prix Forums and its staff are not responsible if someone rips you off or doesn't send parts out in a timely manner. This classifieds section is a free service for the community, and it is YOUR responsibility to handle all transactions in a low-risk method. DO NOT contact us if there is a dispute between you and someone else, we are NOT INVOLVED. You can help minimize fraud risk by doing these suggestions:

    Pay using PAYPAL, using a credit card. This way, if a part does not arrive, you can do a charge back through your credit card company. If you gift it, then you have no recourse to get your money back when things fall through. Pay the 3% and have the buyer protection. Using someone else's paypal and gifting to pay for goods is violating Paypal's Terms of Service.



    Always ask for full name, residential address, phone numbers of both buyers and sellers. An honest seller should have no problem disclosing this info to you privately.


    Shipping things C.O.D. is risky. Try to use UPS or Fedex, so that you can track shipments. Have someone sign for it if it is expensive.


    Ask for references from other members, hopefully from other members who have been registered for longer than one year and are active here.


    Use your gut feeling. If something seems too good to be true, or a seller/buyer seems a little shady, don't take the risk.

    TIPS:
    -Post pictures: with mobile phones these days and auto uploads, it’s not even really hard anymore. Have it automatically drop in Photobucket, grab the Img tag link and paste it in.

    -Give good contact information if you aren’t going to be on here a lot.

    -If you are going to disappear for an extended time (vacation, time in jail, what have you), then give us a quick note that you aren’t going to be around. People will trust you a little more.

    -Look around and gauge your price with other items. Just cause you bought it for $1000, doesn’t mean it’s now worth $1,200 or even the original $1,000. You are free to ask what ever you want, but an item that is priced right will sell quicker.
  • The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

WTB L67 Rods and Pistons



unless your looking to build a sick HP engine, buy a used engine. use its block. its way cheaper then all the shop work this engine needs to be rebuild properly.

a whole used engine will cost less then the machine shop bill. this is why we dont rebuild these engines to much, unless you got some plans, and then you dont use the stock internals.
 
Ive got a RWD L36 in my Datsun 510. And recently had the lim start to leak. So im doing a top swap i have everything but just figured it would be easier to throw l67 rods and pistons in and call ot a day.
 
As long as the tune is good and you don't have any issues with KR many turbo guys have run the L36 pistion/rods setups into the 500whp range.

Pics of your project? Datsun 510 isn't something you see very often anymore.
 
Danfinny said:
Ive got a RWD L36 in my Datsun 510. And recently had the lim start to leak. So im doing a top swap i have everything but just figured it would be easier to throw l67 rods and pistons in and call ot a day.
Click to expand...

these aint a 350 small block engines. you just dont take the bottom ends apart and swap parts. thats a 200 mile motor.

find the heads and lim and blower for the top swap, and get it on there.

that set up in a car that small should be a blast.
 


GMR Badass said:
As long as the tune is good and you don't have any issues with KR many turbo guys have run the L36 pistion/rods setups into the 500whp range.

Pics of your project? Datsun 510 isn't something you see very often anymore.
Click to expand...
Sure here you go.





And Scotty i mean no disrespect but I am not a dumb punk kid. i have done my research and have all the parts needed for the top swap. I have even modified the charger to fit.

 
Very cool....subscribed for sure!

I know that you've done your research and are more than capable of doing all the modificaitons yourself......But.....food for thought. The Eaton M90 (Heaton M90) is very inefficient and a lot of people going for higher HP numbers have preferred running the L36 bottom end to keep that higher compression ratio. With not having to spin the supercharger with an even smaller pulley you end up keeping the M90 in it's most effiecent range (which is crap all around) but like I said, just food for thought.

With proper tune, AFR, and 0KR the L36 bottom ends will easily hold 500whp.
 
i didt mean for you feel any disrespect. im just saying money wise, its not worth it. unless your loaded and dont mind tossing good money out the window for no reason other then to do it.

people who blow up their l67 or l32 will use a high compression n/a block in its place. the low compression blocks and or the whole engine are getting harder to find local for every one, not thats there not out there, just may not be in your back yard.

and the whole n/a engines cheaper, as low as $300 for a low mile engine. and are all over.

its pretty cool how everyone who does the rwd swap goes about the welding for the blower intake U turn just a bit different. thats the first one ive seen that looks like it un bolts from the blower. nice fab work.
 
Scottydoggs said:
i didt mean for you feel any disrespect. im just saying money wise, its not worth it. unless your loaded and dont mind tossing good money out the window for no reason other then to do it.

people who blow up their l67 or l32 will use a high compression n/a block in its place. the low compression blocks and or the whole engine are getting harder to find local for every one, not thats there not out there, just may not be in your back yard.

and the whole n/a engines cheaper, as low as $300 for a low mile engine. and are all over.

its pretty cool how everyone who does the rwd swap goes about the welding for the blower intake U turn just a bit different. thats the first one ive seen that looks like it un bolts from the blower. nice fab work.
Click to expand...

Wish I was loaded lol... not worried about high HP numbers, she will already do mid 13's with the stock l36. ill be more than happy with stock boost that should put me well ito the 12's and ill call it a day, this is my DD and I lover her.

Guess im going to have to start a build thred before the mods see this lol...
 
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whats that car weigh? nothing? lol it should fly. maybe be a good drift car too. with out making it one, if ya know what i mean lol
 
It weighs in at a hefty 2200 with me in it and a half a tank of gas lol... its hard to drift cause the rear is so short but it will do circles like no other..
 


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