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Which way to turn bolts on caliper

lol. ive used it all when i had no tools or jack stands. wood, cinder blocks, stacked the wrong way, yup done some messed up stuff my self.


im still here tho!!!! with all my fingers and limbs still lol
 


Mirraco said:
I figured it was the pads doing the sound, and when i seen the rotors i was like i dont these will work

What do you think caused the rust in between the lugnuts on the rotors? The rotors look really bad, but thats what got me is the rust in between the lugnut bolts. Was told car sat for about 18 months before i bought it, but i dont know if its true. has 165K miles 2004 gt.
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Before you put the new rotors on, clean the hub surface of any rust, and apply a thin layer of antiseize. That's standard procedure at work. When I did mine I just cleaned them, and put the rotor on. Man was the rust thick 7 months later when I took them off again.. And I brushed some motor oil on thinking that would prevent rust, nope.

Also clean the part of the rim that contacts the rotor of corrosion/rust from the previous rotors and use anti seize on that too. All of that will prevent rust/corrosion buildup and problems getting it all apart again next time. It will also prevent vibrations from rust causing an imbalance if its thick enough.
 
Anti-seeeze can lick my left nut, hate that **** with a passion.

I will never put that crap on anything brake/rim/rotor related. I also hate those ****ers that put it all over the lug nuts and studs. Pisses me off to no end when I remove lug nuts and they sling that **** all over and then you have to grab the lug nuts with your hands, or you didnt notice it untill you got to the last wheel and now your hand is all silver. That crap never comes off either.

They make air hammers and the BFH to get stuff off and I just grind down the hubs face with a flap wheel or die gridner before I slap new rotors on.
 


Haha some people really hate it, really because of how visible it is. And no, do not goop it on, I hate that too. Don't put it on the studs either. We do a thin layer, so you can still see the hub, just to prevent any more rust. I've had rotors stuck on so bad before... Reason we use antiseize and not grease is because of the high temps.
 
only time i had to use that stuff was for my 03 gmc rear wheel lug nuts. as dipping them in the water towing my boat would make them hell to get off.
 
Yeah that can happen, usually getting lug nuts off is no problem with impact guns, unless the lugs are striped. Only maybe 2 times ever have I seen a stud snap, usually they were overtightened or on there for many, many years,
 
the dealer snapped one on me, then had the balls to charge me for a stud and lug nut. f hate them so much. like i broke it. they come off fine with my 4 way. the air gun snapped it.
 


it was there under warranty. just like when i took it in for a tick, not once, but 3 times. they took my plug wires off and broke them, called me up to tell me its a 100 bucks for new wires...you broke them, not me!!!!. told them to f ing shove it, and ill bring my own wires when i pick it up.

new wires on in the lot, it still ticks, they have no clue why. i week later i started to look around myself, found black soot all over the head at the rear manifold bolt. a closer look showed the header bolt was gone. new stud and nut and the tick was gone......i lost the use of my truck for 6 days for nothing, cause they all suck at the dealer.
 
02NavyBlue said:
Yeah that's most shops man, unfortunately. If they don't know, they just guess and charge you.
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It's sad to hear about dealers working this way, though. All of those special tools and procedures to diagnose problems properly and they throw parts at it like redneck joe down the street... and charge twice as much.

Makes me glad I work on my own car.
 
Yeah they could do a proper diagnosis. They just choose not to or something. I'd like to say at the shop I work at we never do that, but sometimes it does, it makes no sense.
 
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