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What did you do to your Car today?

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Booba5185 said:
while cruising at low speeds (30 MPH - NOT in lock-up) the RPM randomly drop to about 500 (from 1000-1100), then come right back up. You almost wouldn't notice it, but the lights dim and you can hear it in the exhaust. I have yet to have it happen in Neutral\Park, only in Drive.
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Same issue has been occurring on mine when about 30-40 while slowing down. I think its just the throttle position sensor is acting up.
 


I've tried a different TPS with the same results, and I monitor the TPS via Torque Pro and the % doesn't ever change. I'm wondering if it might be EGR related, I wonder if any of it is related to the clatter type noise I'm hearing under load.
 
I don't get any clatter, its just the code I got awhile back when I happened. All I do is bubo the throttle and it goes away. It never dies off or shutters when the rpms drop so I live with it.
 
It seems to be happening more and more, although I did just reset everything. Tomorrow I'll probably do a smoke test to see if anything started leaking again. The flex plate has been replaced with the transmission, those could be "ruled out" I'm thinking it's engine related, but who knows at this point.
 


The plastic stuff? Nope checked that inadvertently when I check the torque converter bolts. My fuel trims are running around -10% so I wonder if that has anything to do with anything. I have a spare MAF to swap back on, I might try that, and check my FPR.
 
Yesterday, I replaced the upstream oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1) b/c the old one was throwing P0135 codes. Aside from getting the old sensor off (which required some Slick 50, my dad's help, and a hammer knocking on a piece of wood on the socket wrench for more leverage---MAJOR pain in the rear), it wasn't too hard. I still don't have any idea where the connectors are supposed to be retained at; the old sensor didn't have the black retaining plug on the connector end (it broke off), so for now, it's taped to some other wires for added stability. LOL.
 
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I seafoamed my car, and cleaned a spare MAF sensor for install. I found a pretty good sized exhaust leak on my headers (imagine that), so band clamps will be here tomorrow, and on Tuesday morning. I also found my IAT's are at 160*F Even driving it dropped very slowly to 138*F I think it might be time for an FWI.
 
installed them headers today. all went well till one dp bolt stripped out. so i tried to get it out dp attached still, no dice. with it unbolted from the engine i was able to pull it down and cut the nut off the stud, then it came out all nice and sh it.

and i wish i knew trans fluid would pour out when the dip stick tube got pulled. what a mess. pissed off my friend pretty good, cleaned it 3 times.

failed to find 3 inch band clamps, lost one of the 3 inch U clamps the po used, so one clamp for now on the DP pipe.not even sure if i should bother cause i need to have a cat welded in soon.

did a good 3 foot o2 extension too. ran the new wire to the pass side and down to the sub frame area where its plugged into the o2, no chance of it ever getting melted this way. i got a abs box on that corner so the wires are tucked in with those lines.

over all its louder under the hood, not so much out the tail pipe. zero drone with no cat, i do have a 32 inch glass pack already.

throttle response is like never before lol

oh, and of course no KR. unless im do a rolling mash of the gas i see a blip of 1 to 2 tops so far. off the line hard, through second shift and still pulling zero KR too

pics to come.
 


Swapped my exhaust dp gasket that was leaking like hell but still have a small tick of exhaust leak I need to find.
 
headers on.

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Bills1997GTP said:
Isn't much but it makes a difference

avuhume9.jpg
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That license plate frame is killing the light output of those LEDs and making your plate harder to see.. May not be a issue for you though..

But if your curious remove the frame and see how much more of your plate shows
 
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