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What did you do to your Car today?

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Tie rods maybe, or the rack is damaged. Scotty had a wheel bearing going out causing his to pull one direction. The alighnment isnt noticeably off is it?

Sent from the Milky Way
 


Don't talk about my rack like that.. lol. I really hope thats not it. I'm not prepared to replace a rack. The pop definitely comes from the drivers side though.. There's no play in either wheels which makes me think more like a ball joint. But it wouldn't creak like that would it? And would it cause the car to pull to the left?

Can you tell I don't know a ton about suspension crap?
 
Got bored at the house and decided to start cleaning the wheels instead of picking up sticks like Lee told me to. Such a rebel I know...lol


Before:
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uju2asut.jpg


After:
esaju2uz.jpg


abuzymyq.jpg


Not to shabby for the first scrub down. The insides are pretty bad and peeling. I'll have to see if I can find someone that powder coats and see about cost.


Testing one out for a tease pic

mytazapy.jpg
 
I just dropped the subframe a little, lossened all motor and transmission mounts, then tried to realign everything (never knew there was an alignment hole on the subframe). I did a little, but the problem is still there, me thinks. I had my wife shift the transmission into reverse while it was up in the air and on the ground and everything seems fine. The clunk seems to be inside the transmission, on top of that I can hear a ticking coming from the transmission when I'm under light throttle. I think the clicking would always be there, the exhaust just drowns it out. I'm gonna track down a good JY unit or something and swap it in. At this point I could swap the gear set in my sleep.
 
got to love our smart girl on the board. she even used a little wheel chock to keep the wheel from rolling away lol


nice clean up job on those too. do i smell white on white wheel powder coating?

esaju2uz.jpg
 


Replaced my rear struts, trailing arms, sway bar links and bushings. Pretty much everything went perfect, the trailing arm bolts through the knuckle were seized on good but that was nothing my new ingersoll couldn't handle. It took about a minute of impacting per side but it got them out. (on the bolt, after the nut was already off) The drivers one pulled the sleeve out of the bushing so I had to clamp that with vice grips and spin that off.

Afterwards both were toe'd in a little, I could only break the passenger side adjuster loose to adjust it. That was the one we used an oxy/ace torch on to loosen, so it figures since we didn't adjust the drivers side, it's rusted on good. Also I think the trailing arms are on upside down, they don't tell you which way they go on and the stock ones are not the same so I can't go off that. I think so because they're not parallel to the car. So I'll have to flip them tomorrow. Otherwise it's done, my car is now level front to back, and when accelerating from a stop I can tell the back doesn't squat down as much. Plus the noise from the sway bar links is gone. So after tomorrow I'll be happy with it.

Some of the pics are links to shorten up this post

Rust free strut towers in michigan
SSPX0193Custom.jpg


I covered the whole thing in grease so it won't ever rust
http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/xx249/combat11/SSPX0195Custom.jpg

I know these can rot out after they get real rusty, mine were okay, a tad iffy in a spot. So I covered them in grease, they won't rust anymore.
http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/xx249/combat11/SSPX0194Custom.jpg

Every new part is an upgrade. Not shown is the bar bushings, new were poly.
SSPX0200Custom.jpg


That sway bar link is on an angle because none of the bushings were on at the time.
SSPX0005Custom.jpg


SSPX0201Custom.jpg


One issue
http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/xx249/combat11/SSPX0006Custom.jpg
And solved
http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/xx249/combat11/SSPX0007Custom.jpg

Yay it sits level again. Yeah too much wheel well gap, so what. I can get under my car without jacking it up and clear driveways and never scrape
SSPX0009Custom.jpg
 
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if you used dorman trailing arms they go on so the bar is further away from the tires. if they clear you can leave them if they are backwards. its for tire clearance most likely.
 
Scottydoggs said:
if you used dorman trailing arms they go on so the bar is further away from the tires. if they clear you can leave them if they are backwards. its for tire clearance most likely.
Click to expand...

Yeah they are further away from the tires but like that they're on an angle and I can see the bushing isn't flush with the bracket
 
Just finished my tinted taillights and installed them! They don't look too bad for my first time. Think I'm gonna get some led bulbs to make sure they are plenty bright!
 


Ordered some valve cover gaskets. Now I just have to decide which color I want to paint my valve covers. Red, black or gold. Hrm.
 
Scotty that motor mount pic is disgusting. Danielle's wheel pics offset your nastiness lol. D, those might look fine in silver, stick one or two on there and have a peek. Nice cleanup.

Cap'n be sure your sway bar or a link didn't snap. And that all recently f'd with bolts are tight. Do subframe bushings ever go bad on these kind of rides?

Blue, that looks much better level and I'd bet she handles better too. Peanut butter jelly donut time over here, dang yer hide. These cars are squirrely in the rear for sure so they at least need to be in good shape. From the look of the GMPP arms I might just box the existing ones on the car. So tiny. Look at the one in this pic, all I hit was the shoulder!


IMG_4821_zps32b3d907.jpg


grease on everything? Maaaannn... come on now. Just get a good layer of non-corrosive dirt and mud over that before salty roads. Y'know I bet you could buy that car a few years with some good rust stuff if you was to pull the rocker moldings off it one day ... just sayin.
 
Pulled my rear valve cover today, gasket looked damn good considering! Small chip on the inside of the valve cover though, near the third hole going right, not a big deal though... wish I had some metal ones, stupid plastic pos

Still haven't found this god damned leak causing burning below the rear valve cover, pretty sure it's oil though..
 


SDGTP99 said:
Ordered some valve cover gaskets. Now I just have to decide which color I want to paint my valve covers. Red, black or gold. Hrm.
Click to expand...
Red would look good since it will match the car.






image_zps8b0c21d8.jpg


Before install of the skip shift eliminator. And forgot to take an after pic so you will have to use your imagination. No more 1-4 shifts FTW.
 
Bigjoe980 said:
Pulled my rear valve cover today, gasket looked damn good considering! Small chip on the inside of the valve cover though, near the third hole going right, not a big deal though... wish I had some metal ones, stupid plastic pos

Still haven't found this god damned leak causing burning below the rear valve cover, pretty sure it's oil though..
Click to expand...
want to buy some?
 
I could be interested! but work has been scarce at the moment though, can't drive to Casper on this leak, so could be a while ( ? ), sigh... Why the hell did I decide on pilot service. they use normal gaskets or have to make your own?
 
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