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What did you do to your Car today?

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I know on the 97-03s there is a harness that goes from the subframe down the control arms to the bearings, and they are known to go out. I assume the 04+ are the same.it's an easy plug and play replacement. Hell, if you are anorexic you don't even need to jack up the car.

Try this: Pop hood, disconnect the EBTCM, jack car up. Connect your multimeter to pins 21 and 20. Have a friend wiggle the wiring going up the left front (driver) control arm and see if the reading changes on meter. Then connect the meter to pins 4 and 5, and do the same thing on the passenger side front. If they're the same, try the same for the rear tires. Pins 22 and 23 are driver rear and pins 2 and 3 are passenger rear. It might be easier if you have a friend to help, but it can be done alone. If it passes those tests, you might have a bad EBTCM, they're about 80-130 to have rebuilt online. You take it off ship it off, get it back at the end of the week and reinstall, that's it. You can drive without an EBTCM, you'll just have the ABS and TCS lights on all the time.
 


Scottydoggs said:
dont feel bad mine failed the self test 2 times today both times while backing up after a starting it up.

you just need to follow the wires from the hub to the sub frame, they pass through a slit in the plastic then you can see them on the inside of the bay.

the pass side has a plug right by the blancer in a gtp so look near the inside frame for the plug. the drivers side has no plug inside the bay that ive found yet.

if you find a broken wire or missing insulation on a wire you need to cut the wire and solder it back together for the best results.
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why would that be the best result?? why can't i just buy a new wire harness?
 
Where is the EBTCM and what pins are for the front? I need to diagnose a ABS light issue that I believe is the LF wheel speed sensor. Multimeter set to read Ohms correct?

Sent from the Milky Way
 
Booba5185 said:
I know on the 97-03s there is a harness that goes from the subframe down the control arms to the bearings, and they are known to go out. I assume the 04+ are the same.it's an easy plug and play replacement. Hell, if you are anorexic you don't even need to jack up the car.

Try this: Pop hood, disconnect the EBTCM, jack car up. Connect your multimeter to pins 21 and 20. Have a friend wiggle the wiring going up the left front (driver) control arm and see if the reading changes on meter. Then connect the meter to pins 4 and 5, and do the same thing on the passenger side front. If they're the same, try the same for the rear tires. Pins 22 and 23 are driver rear and pins 2 and 3 are passenger rear. It might be easier if you have a friend to help, but it can be done alone. If it passes those tests, you might have a bad EBTCM, they're about 80-130 to have rebuilt online. You take it off ship it off, get it back at the end of the week and reinstall, that's it. You can drive without an EBTCM, you'll just have the ABS and TCS lights on all the time.
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Russosaur said:
Where is the EBTCM and what pins are for the front? I need to diagnose a ABS light issue that I believe is the LF wheel speed sensor. Multimeter set to read Ohms correct?

Sent from the Milky Way
Click to expand...

yes. ohms.
 
Schmidty said:
why would that be the best result?? why can't i just buy a new wire harness?
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why change a whole harness when you can repair it for cheaper? once you own a soldering kit it uses are end less.

HF has 3 dollar irons, 3 bucks for a box of shrink tubes. 5 bucks for solder at the shack. get flux core solder.

so far ive done all new new speaker pig tails, amp install, the maf and ait sensor pig tails, the fog light pig tails. my friends car speakers, another's cat chewed phone charger. a brake switch on a exploder. the list goes on and on.

i think it paid for its self already in the short time ive had it.
 


Scottydoggs said:
why change a whole harness when you can repair it for cheaper? once you own a soldering kit it uses are end less.

HF has 3 dollar irons, 3 bucks for a box of shrink tubes. 5 bucks for solder at the shack. get flux core solder.

so far ive done all new new speaker pig tails, amp install, the maf and ait sensor pig tails, the fog light pig tails. my friends car speakers, another's cat chewed phone charger. a brake switch on a exploder. the list goes on and on.

i think it paid for its self already in the short time ive had it.
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oh i know it's a cheap repair.. and i have an iron and solder and everything.. i mean just did my switchbacks yesterday.. but i just hate doing wiring **** like that because i get so pissed when it doesn't work after i put a bunch of work into it.. if i buy new.. it's nice and new and will last a lot longer and i don't have to worry about my solder not holding or another part of the wire going bad. i know completely what you are saying tho.. i'll check the harness tomorrow or maybe even find time to do it again today... i just hate putting my car up on the hoist for a 3rd time.. lol.. but it has to be done. i have solder with rezen or whatever and shrink tubing and the whole get up.. its just the fact of going to do it and hoping i can find the problem!
 
if you can figure out the ohm meter deal like the other guys are talking about, thats the easy way to find a bad wire. i need to learn how to do that one day. i too hate electrical crap. im a if i can see it, i can fix it type guy. lol
 
Scotty, start out by using the continuity setting. On the "better" (not the cheapo red HF meters they give way every other week) multimeters they'll beep when you touch the red and black leads together. You can verify damn near any wire from there. Connect the red lead to one end of the wire and the black lead to the other end of the wire. IF the meter beeps when you do that, there is no break in the wire. There might be a SHORT, but no break. If you think there is a short, touch the red lead to one wire and the black lead to the wire you think it is shorting against. If the meter beeps, the wires are touching (shorting).
 
Most of the time the sensors in the wheels have a break in the connection internally. So on a bad bearing, with the meter set to ohms or continuity, you touch the red lead to one of the wires on the bearing and the black lead to the other. 9 times out of 10, if the bearing is bad, the meter will do nothing when you do this. IIRC mine good bearings had a number around 1000, just like the other 3 good ones. Best part is you can check all 4 bearings from one spot, without even jacking up the car. Unplug your EBTCM and check it there. I believe the pinout for the wheel sensors stayed the same throughout the years. Other things changed, but the wheel sensors stayed the same:

Left Front: Pins 20 and 21
Right Front: Pins 4 and 5
Left Rear: Pins 22 and 23
Right Rear: Pins 2 and 3
 
good info for a noob. i knew it was easy, just never played or watched someone do it.

i come from the age of glass buss fuses, if you kept blowing a fuse you took that fuse out, then wrapped it with tin foil, then waited for something to smoke then pull the fuse. find and fix the melted wires. did that more then once in the day.
 


ok who is this:th_laugh-lol3: this big news segment on street racing in the streets of detroit and i was so happy because there was a GP representing the rackars we all own.
 


Electronic Brake & Traction Control Module. Also known as the ABS module. When mine went out, not only did I have the ABS and TCS off lights, but I lost the speedometer in neutral.
 
02NavyBlue said:
They sure can stink like some strange things lol. I pop them for fun, usually smaller ones.
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Tell me about it, it was a half farad and when I opened the trunk it looked like a bomb went off, a mushroom cloud of smoke just poured out. I'm sure I probably took about 10 years off my life by inhaling that stuff for a month straight, lol.

Edit: Sorry for the double post, I forgot they don't auto-merge.
 
Oh so that thing with all the brake lines running to it in the right of the bay near the strut tower? I think mine has duct tape on the connector.

Sent from the Milky Way
 
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