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What did you do to your Car today?

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bill it ran down to about 10 psi then turned off. it wont build pressure ever. i can crank it all day and never have 1 psi so yeah fuel pump is dead
 


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Fixed my t-stat in the snow. It was stuck open via failsafe. That was mybad though. I modified the t-stat to block off that little air bleeder valve, basically turning it into a normal t-stat from stant. They don't use them. Anyway when I did my coolant elbows I didn't feel like bleeding(being rushed at work), and after running it for 10 minutes, the t-stat still wasn't being touched by coolant, so it wasn't able to pick up the heat and open. After a while it got enough heat from the air and got a superheated pocket of coolant that was about 240° and it caused the t-stat to slam open, getting stuck via failsafe. If I would have left the bleed valve there, the air pocket would have been forced into the radiator upon startup. A normal t-stat (without the bleed valve form the factory) would have opened wide, then closed when appropriate and had no problems. So moral of the story, don't get rid of the valve and not properly bleed with a failsafe at the same time. The t-stat works fine after unclipping it. And I properly bled it this time lol.
 
Dude...let's just blame it on the part.


BTW I never open bleed valves. I've found running the car for a minute and turning it off/on is more effective. Then you get ot temp and poof.. flowage. Give you credit for going out there like a man, doing the job and then reporting to us instead of crying like a girl.
 


BillBoost37 said:
Dude...let's just blame it on the part.


BTW I never open bleed valves. I've found running the car for a minute and turning it off/on is more effective. Then you get ot temp and poof.. flowage. Give you credit for going out there like a man, doing the job and then reporting to us instead of crying like a girl.
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Haha I would like to but I did see the temp gauge instantly shoot up to 240° for a little bit, then come back down. That on it's own will cause the failsafe to do what it's meant to. The bleed valve I modified was on the thermostat itself, and it's there partially to prevent what happened.

The only time I use the bleeder valve on the t-stat housing is to fill the rad completely before starting for the first time, after that I just keep putting fluid in the rad until it's up past t-stat temps. 3.8's are really good with self-bleeding in a way. Some cars are so picky, like Honda's.
Yeah it was cold but that's not gonna stop me lol. I did it real quick, like I've done it on 3.8's at least 5 times(which is true) The snow even helped me fill the system up a bit more.

On a bad note, all the water/coolant spillage lately has caused the compressor bearing to get worse, it started grinding enough to actually engage the compressor a half turn. It stopped after putting some oil on it, but I really have to replace that bearing.
 




Ah well it would have to lock itself if that's the case, and it only does that when the key is out. I have 3 sets of keys total, and 2 fobs. It is weird how it locks itself. I was cleaning my rims one day and my keys were sitting on the drivers seat, and I heard the doors lock, I had my window down so it was fine, but I'm not sure why they locked. Must be an option on the factory alarm system.
 
Haha yeah. Just don't see how any heat is even remotely usable after that short of time, unless you have a custom 4k rpm high idle.

Or block heater.
 
I keep my garage at 55 and my cars warm up quick in the morning.

That sucks you had to do that in the cold. I once did the water pump in the dark and cold in a Auto zone parking lot in the middle of nowhere.
 
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