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What did you do to your Car today?

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Oh, as for me, I almost ran out of gas. When I left the house it said I had 50 miles left on the range. Its a 17 mile drive to work. I figured I would put gas in on the way home. The low fuel light didn't even kick on on the way to work.

When I left work the low fuel light was on. I looked at the mileage on the tank, and looked at the average MPG and realized I was going to be cutting it close. I started up a slight hill and felt the car buck once. That was enough for me and I stopped at a different gas station that was closer to where I was.
 


raverockstar said:
I still see the temp on the obd2 or the gauge.
It's just not turning on the fans.
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You can see the temp on the gauge, but the temp sent to the PCM can still be wrong(which would indicate a bad ECT or ECT sensor). However if you are seeing a good temp through the obd2, that wouldn't be the case.

Do your fans come on when your A/C is on?
 
codyAK said:
You can see the temp on the gauge, but the temp sent to the PCM can still be wrong(which would indicate a bad ECT or ECT sensor). However if you are seeing a good temp through the obd2, that wouldn't be the case.

Do your fans come on when your A/C is on?
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The obd2 shows 219 when idle in the sun.
ubuvunys.jpg


When I turn the ac on the fans starting.
So for now I use ac all the time just to keep it down. But it's wasting gas.
 
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Coolant level sensor?

Easiest way is to (if I recall correctly)

Take out the headlight, and take out the battery. Then attack it from the headlight area.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
 


raverockstar said:
Btw. This coolant sensor looks like its gonna take me a week.
How am I supposed to reach it.
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It's kind of a pain where it is, but all you need is a 19mm wrench. Just play around until you find a good place to grab it. If you have a ratcheting wrench you might be able to speed things up a bit.
The first time I replaced one it took me a while, I spent more time staring at it trying to figure out how to attack it the first time. The second time I replaced one it took me less than ten minutes.
 
codyAK said:
It's kind of a pain where it is, but all you need is a 19mm wrench. Just play around until you find a good place to grab it. If you have a ratcheting wrench you might be able to speed things up a bit.
The first time I replaced one it took me a while, I spent more time staring at it trying to figure out how to attack it the first time. The second time I replaced one it took me less than ten minutes.
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What was the symptoms for the faulty one?
I'm guessing my problem is because the fans won't turn on at 210 or at all beside ac.
 


temp sensor is under the thermostat housing. use a open wrench, work on it when the car is real cold, as your leaning on the cross over to get it. and coolants going to leak out right on your hand.
 
raverockstar said:
Do I need to drain all coolant before?
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No, just have your other sensor ready to go. If it doesn't come with thread sealant, make sure it's already applied.

Once you have it to where you just need a few finger turns to get the sensor off, have the other one ready to put into it's place with your other hand, and you'll lose minimal coolant.

If you do lose a bit of coolant, just take the t-stat off and top it off right there.
 


stealthee said:
Sounds like you either blew a line, or the front pump seal went out.
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Turns out it was one of the lines to the cooler. It was rubbing against the frame and got worn enough to break open. My dad and I put a splice in the line with a splicer for our air hoses. Going to get some fluid now, but do you just add it in the line for the dipstick?
 
found somebody selling the SE front lip, went to look at it and its in pretty bad shape paint wise but has more tabs intact then my current se front lip so ended up buying it. Installed a base model front lip to allow me time to get this new SE version repainted. Discovered GM used two metal tabs on either side to hold the SE lip on and I have no idea how to remove those so they are staying on.
 
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