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UIM LIM repair help on parts

you need to do a oil change, dump a qt of oil in the lim to flush any left into the pan and out the drain hole.

add new oil when your done re installing everything run it for a few minutes, then do another oil and filter change. you dont want any coolant mixed in the oil, or you can spin a bearing, 25 bucks for a extra oil change is cheap insurance.
 


Good thinking.
I'm starting to think I should have flushed my radiator before doing this job too haha.

Flushing after with a new T-stat.. Good or bad?
 
dont matter about the t stat. you take it out to flush it.

how to flush coolant.

remove the t stat, put the t stat housing back on, take the upper hose off the radiator, then push it down to the ground to a bucket or let it fly.

get your garden hose out, put it in the rad turn it on, then fire up the car, let it run till clear water pumps out the top hose.

then turn the hose off, run the car till no more water comes out the upper hose. then turn it off.

put your t stat back in, with new gasket, the upper hose back on.



now take 1 gallon of full strength green antifreeze, not the 50/50 crap. ( parts store cheap green is fine to use) dump the whole gallon in the radiator, fire up the car, fill the rad with hose water till its full. top as needed till its ready to be bled of air. it will burp and take coolant as the water in the block warms up the t stat opens up for a few seconds till cold coolant hits it and it shuts again.

now to bleed the air out, let it idle rad cap off till the fans turn on, (when the fans are on the temp is over 195 deg, the t stat is wide open) then open the bleeder screw on top the t stat housing a few turns till a steady stream of coolant comes out the hole, shut the screw, top off the rad. cap it.

done.
 
ScottyDoggs said:
dont matter about the t stat. you take it out to flush it.

how to flush coolant.

remove the t stat, put the t stat housing back on, take the upper hose off the radiator, then push it down to the ground to a bucket or let it fly.

get your garden hose out, put it in the rad turn it on, then fire up the car, let it run till clear water pumps out the top hose.

then turn the hose off, run the car till no more water comes out the upper hose. then turn it off.

put your t stat back in, with new gasket, the upper hose back on.



now take 1 gallon of full strength green antifreeze, not the 50/50 crap. ( parts store cheap green is fine to use) dump the whole gallon in the radiator, fire up the car, fill the rad with hose water till its full. top as needed till its ready to be bled of air. it will burp and take coolant as the water in the block warms up the t stat opens up for a few seconds till cold coolant hits it and it shuts again.

now to bleed the air out, let it idle rad cap off till the fans turn on, (when the fans are on the temp is over 195 deg, the t stat is wide open) then open the bleeder screw on top the t stat housing a few turns till a steady stream of coolant comes out the hole, shut the screw, top off the rad. cap it.

done.
Click to expand...

How many times have you posted this exact procedure? I feel like you've posted it more times than there are more letters in the procedure lol.
 
haha damn thanks scotty, right now i'm taking the water pump off and the valve covers and I'll have had everything dismantled.

I'm sure I'll have more questions.. I might get lost putting things back together haha.

I've managed to label everything except for two bolts.. don't know what i was thinking skipping labeling them.

so far only things i know i broke... possible a fuel injector clip the two prongs inside are a little bent and the two coolant elbows lol. but i got new ones so I'm set
 


Okay I took the water pump off last so I'm going to put that back on first. Sounds about right...

Anyways, is their a torque spec for the water pump gasket? And directions on what bolts to screw in first?

Another question about the upper plenum.. Someone told me to take the "straw" looking tube out before putting it back on.. Any thoughts?
 
water pump, make sure all old gasket is off, install a new dry gasket, no rtv. then put all the little bolts in hand tight, the 4 long bolts get thread sealant, then put them back in, then just snug up all the bolts in any old pattern you feel, X pattern, round the clock, dont really matter in the w/p.

that straw, no idea.
 
Water pump and power steering back bolted back on..

Question.. Torque spec for the two bolts that hold the power steering thing on.

Been googling it, I got a few different answers.

Maybe anyone know a service manual book website I can look up for these things so I don't have to waste your time?
 
every thing is just make it tight.

all but the lim.

my whole engine rebuild all that got tq'ed was the heads, the lim, blower and crank sensor. everything else just made em tight.
 
LIM looks a little corroded.
Am I okay??
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its fine. scrape that down with a new sharp razor blade. most of that black outline should come off. same for the heads.
 
cool
another question.. my car has a "lifter tick"

anything i should do while pretty much everything is still taken apart?

my car would tick with an increase in revs until the car warmed up.
 
not unless you want to change the lifters while your there.

other then that regular oil changes can help with that tick, gm says its ok as long as it goes away in a minute or so.

my old engine, if i was a 1000 miles past a oil change, it would tick and beg for a oil change. change the oil it stops 100% for me, till it was due for another.

i also do 3,000 mile oil changes with any on sale oil.
 


old used up gas stinking oil is thin. lifters get old and dont hold pressure over night, then tick till oil pressure builds back up inside the lifter.

new oil helps.
 
Good way to clean the bolt holes in the LIM?
Got the LIM cleaned was about to put it back on then realized there's some gunk in the holes.
 
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