• Failure to follow these rules may result in your threads being locked, deleted, or moved. Depending on the severity of your actions, or frequency of your actions, your user account could be suspended or banned. These rules are to help protect both buyer and seller.


    1. CONSOLIDATE all of your for sale items into ONE thread only. This means there will be NO making multiple sales threads for different items regardless if the parts are related or not.

    2. PRICE IS REQUIRED. We do not permit ads without an asking price for each item. "Best Offer" is not an allowable substitute for posting a price. You may ask for $1 but a price must be listed regardless. If a price is not listed with in the first 24 hours of making your sale thread IT WILL BE LOCKED or DELETED. Once a price is listed a bidding war is not permitted. If the seller gets an offer that meets his asking price, the seller should honor the asking price and sell for that amount.

    3. EBAY LINKS AND OTHER LINKS. We allow links to ebay ads, but you MUST have a buy-it-now price posted, or an asking price to stop the auction in your ad here (Not just in the link). If it is from another site or from here, do not use a link but post the full text instead with pictures if you have them listed. If a BIN price is not posted, then your thread will be DELETED.

    4. CITY / STATE are required info for each ad. Information must be posted in the first post of thread, NO EXCEPTIONS. Buyers and sellers reserve the rights to privately ask for full contact information on any purchase or sale. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    5. NO TWO PARTY SALES. This means no more "I'm selling for a friend" posts and will be deleted immediately with no notice. Seller assumes all responsibility of anything they post for sale.

    6. NO FEELER THREADS. You are either selling it or you aren’t selling it.

    7. POST COUNT AND/OR TIME LIMIT. We are requesting that you spend some time with us before you start a For Sale thread. A pre-determined minimum number of posts will be required or 1 year since creating the account + an intro thread (just so we know you aren’t the Prince of Africa). Any for sale thread posted out of the For Sale section to circumvent the rules will result in being deleted. Those who do meet the criteria and post outside the section will have their thread moved, constant violation of this will result in an infraction.

    8. NO BUMPING OR TT’ing YOUR THREAD MORE THAN ONCE IN 48 HOURS. Don’t worry your thread will still be a bold read until a user reads it and if people are really interested they will let you know. Post warning will be issued if in violation and on the 3rd warning, the thread will just be locked.

    9. NO THREAD DUMPING OR I DON’T LIKE YOUR PRICE. Don’t post in a person’s thread just to tell them they are too high, either move along and say nothing or throw an offer to them. The person can sell it at whatever price they think someone is willing to pay. Offenders will be issued a warning, if it is a constant issue then an infraction will be issued.

    10. KEEP YOUR THREAD UP TO DATE. This is really for your benefit, so you don’t get 10 PMs asking if you still have it when you already sold it.

    11. NO WEAPONS. As Admins we have determined that no weapons will be allowed to be sold, this includes knives, guns and anything else deemed a weapon (even if its a wall hanger only). We ask that if you want to sell these items you seek out the appropriate websites elsewhere to do so.

    12. Pictures are REQUIRED. Pictures of all items for sale. This is to help BOTH seller and buyer. As a seller it is MUCH easier to sell something if you have pictures of it. As a buyer you feel better seeing exactly what you are buying. Pictures should contain the item/s for sale and a sign of some kind that has your username on it. 24 hour notice will be given, if you do not comply your post will be DELETED.

    FRAUD & RISK. Buy and Sell at your own risk. Grand Prix Forums and its staff are not responsible if someone rips you off or doesn't send parts out in a timely manner. This classifieds section is a free service for the community, and it is YOUR responsibility to handle all transactions in a low-risk method. DO NOT contact us if there is a dispute between you and someone else, we are NOT INVOLVED. You can help minimize fraud risk by doing these suggestions:

    Pay using PAYPAL, using a credit card. This way, if a part does not arrive, you can do a charge back through your credit card company. If you gift it, then you have no recourse to get your money back when things fall through. Pay the 3% and have the buyer protection. Using someone else's paypal and gifting to pay for goods is violating Paypal's Terms of Service.



    Always ask for full name, residential address, phone numbers of both buyers and sellers. An honest seller should have no problem disclosing this info to you privately.


    Shipping things C.O.D. is risky. Try to use UPS or Fedex, so that you can track shipments. Have someone sign for it if it is expensive.


    Ask for references from other members, hopefully from other members who have been registered for longer than one year and are active here.


    Use your gut feeling. If something seems too good to be true, or a seller/buyer seems a little shady, don't take the risk.

    TIPS:
    -Post pictures: with mobile phones these days and auto uploads, it’s not even really hard anymore. Have it automatically drop in Photobucket, grab the Img tag link and paste it in.

    -Give good contact information if you aren’t going to be on here a lot.

    -If you are going to disappear for an extended time (vacation, time in jail, what have you), then give us a quick note that you aren’t going to be around. People will trust you a little more.

    -Look around and gauge your price with other items. Just cause you bought it for $1000, doesn’t mean it’s now worth $1,200 or even the original $1,000. You are free to ask what ever you want, but an item that is priced right will sell quicker.
  • The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Top swapped L36



not really. generally you cant run as much timing, and that makes it slower. note my mod list, i needed meth to get to 17º wot timing.

l67 and a 3.4 can run 18 all day long most of the time.
 


yup with massive wheel spin lol got the real meth tuned in good and dr's to kill the wheel spin BS. 13's here we come lol
 
If you're really looking for performance, extra compression will be your enemy eventually due to detonation. Not to mention the weaker connecting rods on the L36. Go L67 and either mod away, or go turbo. If you really want the extra compression, go with L32 connecting rods and get different pistons.
 


It depends how far you want to take it. If your just looking to have a fun mess around car that is safeish and has some power go with a l67. If you want to make a track car that's all out balls to the wall go with the l36 and higher compression.

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
 
SgtMarshal said:
higher compression has more potential, but will only make more power in the absence of knock retard
Click to expand...

Look, I understand this is a very heated debate, but seriously man? If you're going to go drop insults for no reason, don't preface it with knowledge I'm pretty sure all of us know. We're all here to learn and we all make mistakes. And unless you have a degree in mechanical engineering, I'm pretty sure you're no better off than the rest of us. We appreciate your opinions without putting others down.

There's for sure no 100% right answer on this because it depends on what your goals are.

Thanks for the catch Scotty, I was intending to say the L67 rods over L36. I've had both side by side when rebuilding my engine, and the wrist pin area and stem were much thinner.

In my opinion, if I was really going for performance, I would choose L67 and focus on boost mods.

If you choose compression, you won't need as much boost per horsepower compared to the L67. However there will be a point when keeping knock under control will be a big problem.

Personally, I'd like someone who's modded both of these platforms to chime in and shed some light onto what those barriers for each hp stage with knock for L36 and adding boost for L67.

Again, my intention is just to provide my experiences and opinion, not to insult anyone or claim I know better.

Good luck.
 
there really is no rule of thumb here, its a game you need to play, and if you want a top swap buy a tuner first. your gonna need it.

the game is boost vs timing, which one nets you more power via butt dyno. more boost less timing, or less boost more timing.

stock pulley, ported heads, rockers, l36 bottom end i was able to run 14º wot, thats fuking it. and i was only making 6 psi. most top swaps will make 7 to 8. on a stock pulley. but the heads and rockers helped lower it some.

got a fsic with a ported lim was able to get to a 3.2 with 8 psi, at once again 14º. still weak on power, dont get me wrong, it was still better then a stock l67.

added a meth kit, went right to a 2.8 pulley and 18º wot timing, (12 psi now) had some kr up top so i knocked it down one degree. and about kr free now, few blips here and there under a degree. i can live with that little bit.


theres no way in hell you can pull off any of whats listed with out a tuner in your hands. unless you want to take shot in the dark with mail order tunes and updates. a top swap will need to be 100% tailored to your engine, no 2 are the same.

in the end, the l67 will take timing and boost. why i wish i was able to source a l67, but a free engine of any type is golden. and funds were low, so thats why i got a l36 block. not my first choice really. it does run pretty damn good tho.
 


If me and Scotty had an l67 right now we'd probably be able to run a 2.55 pulley which would be a completely maxed out m90 on a stock cam. So there's deffinately more power to be made with higher compression and really its not some super high compression build. Your going from a 8.5:1 to a 9.4:1

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
 
wstefan20 said:
Look, I understand this is a very heated debate, but seriously man? If you're going to go drop insults for no reason, don't preface it with knowledge I'm pretty sure all of us know. We're all here to learn and we all make mistakes. And unless you have a degree in mechanical engineering, I'm pretty sure you're no better off than the rest of us. We appreciate your opinions without putting others down.

There's for sure no 100% right answer on this because it depends on what your goals are.

Thanks for the catch Scotty, I was intending to say the L67 rods over L36. I've had both side by side when rebuilding my engine, and the wrist pin area and stem were much thinner.

In my opinion, if I was really going for performance, I would choose L67 and focus on boost mods.

If you choose compression, you won't need as much boost per horsepower compared to the L67. However there will be a point when keeping knock under control will be a big problem.

Personally, I'd like someone who's modded both of these platforms to chime in and shed some light onto what those barriers for each hp stage with knock for L36 and adding boost for L67.

Again, my intention is just to provide my experiences and opinion, not to insult anyone or claim I know better.

Good luck.
Click to expand...


what are you talking about? how do you get an insult from one statement?
 
SgtMarshal said:
what are you talking about? how do you get an insult from one statement?
Click to expand...

Hahahahaha

Speaking of mistakes....

I thought when you said "retard" you were trying to call one of us stupid! :th_laugh-lol3:

I was shocked that you would just drop that since every other interaction I've had with you was amicable.

Wow. My apologies man! I cried I laughed so hard when I re-read this!
 
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